Peggie, I have had it with clogged intake thru-hulls! I have a fresh water tank (luckily near the head thru-hull) that I never use (we seldom overnight and take bottled water). I want to change to the the fresh water tank permanently, but what do I do with the thru-hull (I don't plan to haul out this winter). Would it be best to simply put a tee in the line (or gate valve)? Secondly, I think that the outlet of the water tank is above the inlet of the head. What potential problems does this present? Thanks, David (I have your book, but I loaned it out to a friend).
Conversion to fresh water intake
- Thread starter David J.11350
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Hey Daivid, Peggie will tell you
to just put a tee ( probably with a in line valve) in the lav sink drain to supply the head for fresh water flushes. Close through hull drain on sink , turn on tap and flush head. Peggie, did I get that right?
to just put a tee ( probably with a in line valve) in the lav sink drain to supply the head for fresh water flushes. Close through hull drain on sink , turn on tap and flush head. Peggie, did I get that right?
This water tank is an extra tank that's totally
separate from the fresh water system, right? Not connected to it any way, including the fill....right? If it's yes, just connect the head intake line to the discharge line ahead of the pump. If the discharge from the tank is higher than the toilet, put a loop in the line. If the answer is no, you can't do it. Never mind that you don't use the fresh water system now, you might...and the next owner won't know that he shouldn't. If you want to flush with fresh water, you have 3 choices: 1. repace your toilet with one designed to use pressurized flush water (safe to connect to fresh water system); 2. Install a separate flush water tank. Easiest way to do that: stuff an unvented bladder into any location that's convenient to both the toilet and the head sink drain. Tee the bladder fill into the sink drain using a y-valve...connect the head intake line to the bladder. When you need to refill the bladder, open the y-valve to the bladder and run water down the sink. 3. Tee the head intake line into the sink drain. To flush the toilet, close th sink drain seacock, fill the sink with water...flush. Or, you could just put a strainer on the head intake to catch whatever is clogging it up.
separate from the fresh water system, right? Not connected to it any way, including the fill....right? If it's yes, just connect the head intake line to the discharge line ahead of the pump. If the discharge from the tank is higher than the toilet, put a loop in the line. If the answer is no, you can't do it. Never mind that you don't use the fresh water system now, you might...and the next owner won't know that he shouldn't. If you want to flush with fresh water, you have 3 choices: 1. repace your toilet with one designed to use pressurized flush water (safe to connect to fresh water system); 2. Install a separate flush water tank. Easiest way to do that: stuff an unvented bladder into any location that's convenient to both the toilet and the head sink drain. Tee the bladder fill into the sink drain using a y-valve...connect the head intake line to the bladder. When you need to refill the bladder, open the y-valve to the bladder and run water down the sink. 3. Tee the head intake line into the sink drain. To flush the toilet, close th sink drain seacock, fill the sink with water...flush. Or, you could just put a strainer on the head intake to catch whatever is clogging it up.
Yes, it is separate
What do I do with the now unused thru-hull? Obviously, when I haul out next winter, I may have it removed entirely. But can I just leave it in without any hoses connected? Seems a little scary.
What do I do with the now unused thru-hull? Obviously, when I haul out next winter, I may have it removed entirely. But can I just leave it in without any hoses connected? Seems a little scary.
close it,,.put a piece of hose on it
That's long enough to put the other end well above the waterline...secure it so it stays that way...and check that part of your bilge regularly for any wetness that might indicate a leak.
That's long enough to put the other end well above the waterline...secure it so it stays that way...and check that part of your bilge regularly for any wetness that might indicate a leak.
The third choice is
leave the thru hull connected to the tee that has the fresh water tank connected to it. The fresh water tank should have a valve in its line before the tee. Now you have the option of using fresh water to flush with and lake water if the fresh water tank is empty. You can also drain the fresh water tank thru the thru hull if you need to empty it in the winter time. Best of both worlds.
leave the thru hull connected to the tee that has the fresh water tank connected to it. The fresh water tank should have a valve in its line before the tee. Now you have the option of using fresh water to flush with and lake water if the fresh water tank is empty. You can also drain the fresh water tank thru the thru hull if you need to empty it in the winter time. Best of both worlds.
You're referring ONLY to the FLUSH water tank?
A tank that's completely separate from the fresh water system...right? 'Cuz no toilet designed to flush with sea water should ever be connected to the fresh water system...it cannot be done without risk of e-coli migrating into the fresh water system, damage to the toilet, or both...and every toilet mfr specifically warns against it in their installation instructions. If you think you're safe because you don't drink your tank water, you "drink" more of it than you think you do...you wash your hands, then pick up a sandwich...rinse out a cup, then pour bottled water into it...wash dishes in it...brush your teeth in it...and if you can wash your face without getting any on your lips, you're not doing a very good job of washing your face.
A tank that's completely separate from the fresh water system...right? 'Cuz no toilet designed to flush with sea water should ever be connected to the fresh water system...it cannot be done without risk of e-coli migrating into the fresh water system, damage to the toilet, or both...and every toilet mfr specifically warns against it in their installation instructions. If you think you're safe because you don't drink your tank water, you "drink" more of it than you think you do...you wash your hands, then pick up a sandwich...rinse out a cup, then pour bottled water into it...wash dishes in it...brush your teeth in it...and if you can wash your face without getting any on your lips, you're not doing a very good job of washing your face.
Totally and entirely separate
The tank is not connected in any way to anything at all right now. I had removed the hoses to the sink long ago and never replaced them. I plan to install a smaller, flexible tank closer to the sink, which is at the aft end of the cabin. So, I have this large tank in the v-berth that is empty and unused. It seems like a simple solution to my problem. The head is located less than 2 feet from the outlet of that tank. (This is a Pearson 26, BTW). Thanks for the input - I'll probably add a tee in the head intake line (the intake thru-hull is 1 foot away from the tank, also under the v-berth), with a loop in the outlet line of the tank.
The tank is not connected in any way to anything at all right now. I had removed the hoses to the sink long ago and never replaced them. I plan to install a smaller, flexible tank closer to the sink, which is at the aft end of the cabin. So, I have this large tank in the v-berth that is empty and unused. It seems like a simple solution to my problem. The head is located less than 2 feet from the outlet of that tank. (This is a Pearson 26, BTW). Thanks for the input - I'll probably add a tee in the head intake line (the intake thru-hull is 1 foot away from the tank, also under the v-berth), with a loop in the outlet line of the tank.
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