Considering purchasing Mariner 19

[mschiemer]

Hello out there! I'm in the market for a used Mariner, some of which (as you well know!) are 30 to 40+ years old.

I would like to know if there are any Mariner-specific issues I should be aware of in terms of major/structural integrity with the hull, deck, mast, c/b, standing rigging, etc. I am familiar with all the standard "checklist" items... just looking for things that may be unique to these boats.

I am possibly looking at a late 60's model this weekend fairly far from where I live and would like to take full advantage of what will likely be my only visit prior to making a purchase decision on this one.

Thanks!!

Matt

 

[SeanJ]

Hey Matt! I've owned a '73 O'day Mariner for 4 years now, which is the first boat I've owned. I was very fortunate that the previous owner took exceptional care of it and owned 30+ years, since '76.

With regards to Mariner-specific issues, there aren't any that jump to mind outside of the ordinary check list things. Obviously it will all depend on how she was maintained / repaired over the years. One thing I would look for (assuming it is the CB model) is the CB operation and condition of the CB. Even if there are issues with it, it isn't difficult to address, however it can be time consuming work.

They are amazing boats and they really built the heck out of them back then, so chances are you may find a great boat with a few projects. One thing that I was told early on was address anything that poses a safety issue, and sail the boat. Then overtime addresss the cosmetic things and those you want to customize to your own preferences.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!

 

[mschiemer]

Thanks Sean. Yes, the one I'm considering is a C/B model and I have seen some good stuff online on how to remove and treat/repair, doesn't seem too big a deal.

I assume the deck is some type of wood sandwiched between fiberglass, and that could rot... but what about the hull? I thought I saw somewhere online that there were wooden support "ribs" that could rot. Are you aware of such ribs?

Thanks!

 

[SeanJ]

Matt, do you know whether she spends most of the time on the water on mooring or slip, or kept on a trailer? My limited experience tells me kept "on the hard" you'll have less concern for hull issues (e.g. blisters in gelcoat, etc.) which can happen over time in the water, however if not kept covered you have potential of rot from standing water.

I think the "ribs" you read about are also referred to as stringers. My understanding is thare are simply supporting the floorboards, which may be missing anyway. Ours came with a cabin floor, which I took out since there's really not much use for it and it actually decreases the already short cabin (and it was ugly too; somewhere down the road I'll make her a pretty one...)

I'm not certain what type of mast support you have, but if there's an aluminum mast support from the cabin ceiling down, look at the lower end where it meets the cabin sole. Is the wood under the support seem solid? If itsn't it can be replaced, but if it has pushed through the fiberglass at the base that is problematic and a pretty big job to correct.

Also from inside the cabin look throughout and crawl back under the cockpit benches and give a decent visual inspection of any wood (there won't be much) and simply look for cracks, etc. Check out condition of any backing plates where hardware is bedded through the deck or transom for the motor mount, gudgeons, backstay fitting, shrouds, boweye etc.


Look around the CB trunk in the cabin and see if there's any significant cracks and what shape the CB pin is in. To be honest, this is an Achiles Heal for the Mariner and it most likely leaks a bit. If you don't see excessive damage don't be concerened, there lots of creative approaches out there to addressing the leak (a sponge being the simplest...) But if you see large cracks around the trunk that could be a concern.

If it lives on a trailer like mine, make sure you pay some attention to the trailer as well.

Bring a notebook, pen and take lots of pictures. Photograph and write down anything that concerns you or you feel is missing, you likley won't be able to remember everything you see.

Lastly, the best resource out there is the Mariner Class Association. There are some really great, knowledgable and people in this group, with a lot of great information and ideas to share. Check out www.usmariner.org Without being a member you have limited access, but I think you will find it interesting.

Also, check out Nate Bayreuther's site: http://www.nathanbayreuther.com/mariner/index.htm
Nate is the current class association president and maintains his own incredible site dedicated to his Mariner

Best of luck and can't wait to hear what you find. I got really lucky and I hope you do too!

Sean

 

[Siamese]

I just ordered a brand new Mariner 19 to be delivered to me in the Spring by the manufacturer, Stuart Marine, so obviously I'm a fan of these great boats.

There's really nothing specific to look out for on a Mariner 19 that doesn't apply to any used boat purchase. Deck core, etc..

From 1980 to 1982 Sprindrift made the Mariner 19, and I would avoid one of those.

 

[mschiemer]

Sean,

Here's what I know:

Boat is 1969. Current owner bought it 18 years ago and it had been "abandoned" in a boatyard prior to that. Don't know anything before that. This is in MO on a lake. He sailed it for about 2 years and then his wife passed away, and it sat on a trailer for 12 years (not sure if indoors or out, covered or not, I need to find out)... For the past few years it has gotten some light use in the summer although has spent all summer in the water. Pulled each winter and stored on the trailer outside I believe.

I have asked the owner to take lots of pictures for me, which he has (since I live 11 hours drive away from the boat)... He reports no blisters anywhere on the hull and the photos support that. Deck looks great from photos, but I need to get some weight on it and tap around to see about possible rot.

This model does not have the mast support post, it is the wooden arch. I strongly suspect that there will be some deck rot and possibly rot of that wooden arch, just due to the age of the boat, but I won't really know much until I see it this weekend. Owner says he walks all over the deck and it is "as solid as the day they built it"... we'll see. Of course, unless he wants me drilling holes in his deck I won't REALLY know alot about possible rot until she's mine. So I plan to spend alot of time on deck and inside poking around and looking for any and all evidence of rot and how much, etc. I have some good information on how to do that and hopefully will get a good idea.

Thanks for your advice and I'll let you know what I find out (and if I buy her!).

Gotta drive 11 hours just to see her, so that's why I'm trying to be as comprehensive as possible with this visit.

-Matt

 

[SchwarckT]

My '78 Mariner has a pretty much solid fiberglass deck. The only wood core is a small area around the sliding hatch and mast step in the cabin roof. From what I've read, the arch under the mast can be subject to rot on those early model boats.

 

[mschiemer]

Thanks for your response... I've been poking around on the Internet and I can now see that some (much?) of the deck is just fiberglass. Can anyone tell me on a 1969 Mariner exactly which portions of the deck have the wood/balsa within the deck? Is it only under the mast and in front of the hatch? The very front of the boat (next "level" down) at the bow seems to be pure fiberglass from one photo I just saw of someone who installed a ventilation system up there. What about the sidedecks where you walk forward from the cockpit? Thanks!!

 

[mjp83]

Matt,

I too had a chance to buy an early model mariner 2+2. Got lucky and found out that a newer model was also for sale in the same town. I arranged to see both before making the purchase. I really wanted the 1970, but when I saw the 1972 on up model design, I went with my 1973, which is the round top current design used by Stuart Marine.
I also searched for any posts on wood core rotting, and DID find that the older model's fiberglass is thicker than the '72+ models. There is wood in both arches and down the center of the cockpit roof on the old model, as you can see from Nathan's excellent website.
The 72+ glass has also no balsa core, and even though it is 40 years old, the glass has very few stress cracks on my boat. It does seem thin at first (compared to my '73 Southcoast, which did have a wood core, which showed signs of delamination), but is very sturdy. The pre 72 model's glass overall seemed thicker.
I went with the newer model as it had received new undercoating and the centerboard had been refinished as well. I do like the older models classic look, but my boat got me on the water within 3 weeks and my kids really enjoy it. (I had to do glass work, finish wood, and install new stays and rub rail, ordered from Rudy at D&R Marine, he is awesome!).

 

[Mike19]

I have bought and sold a LOT of boats over long distances, and I have some advice, although it sounds like you are going in eyes wide open on this.

I have asked for video, and supplied it as well. It gives the seller a chance to describe/explain any known issues. You are going to inspect the hull, fittings, mast, boom and rigging very closely. Hopefully the mast is down so you can inspect all the wire and fittings. Do the same for the sails. I like to lay them out on grass or a basement floor and run every seam to look for wear and damage. Even used sails are really expensive, so knowing the condition of what you're buying is critical.

The tap test of the hull is a good one. Make sure you also look carefully for blisters and areas that look uneven. (Like you were checking door dents on a used car.) The older boats tended to use a LOT of glass and are pretty much indestructible. Do it in daylight, not at night. Also use your fingertips. They will feel things you may not be able to see on a white hull in sunlight. You want to stick your head in all the cracks and crevices and make sure you have a good flashlight with you so you can see in the shadows.

The last thing I think gets overlooked are trailers. Do the lights work? Winch, tongue jack? Is it rusting?

I am also a big believer in having a price negotiated "pending inspection" before you get in the car to make the trip. Otherwise, you will be standing there having driven 11 hours and the seller has all the leverage. If it turns out to be less than advertised you can always offer less or walk away.

Basic stuff, but maybe something helps.