I am considering the purchase of a 1986 H28.5 and have these concerns: 1. It appears the locking and packing nuts on the stuffing box are plastic. Should I be concerned about the failure of these critical items? 2. It also appears that the suffing box cannot drain into the bilge for pumping. How do you drain what drips from the stuffing box, particularly when underway and under power... This seems like a critical design flaw? I suppose one could install a PSS dripless stuffing box, but I'd like to know how others have dealt with this issue. 3. The B&R double spreader rig would seem to put the main in jeopardy of chafe or holing if you tried to sail dead downwind. Other than trying to sail on a broad reach and keep gybing, how do you go downwind with this rig?
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No real concerns
Your observations should not cause you much concern. The stuffing box has never been an issue I have seen on this board. So far it has lasted 12-15 years so if there is any problem it should be pretty apparent by now. The drainage issue has been discussed many times and should be in the achives. They did not put a weep hole because that would allow water possibly containg oil or diesel into the bilge. This would then be pumped overboard which is violation of Federal law. Read the sticker inside the engine compartment. Read the archives to see how some have dealt with this issue. Again this more of an aggrevation than a substantive issue. I would recommend that you epoxy coat the underside of the sole where ever possible. Yes the Hunter has swept back spreaders which can chafe the mainsail. Solutions are wear patches. spreader tip covers and tack downwind which is more effective. There are many 28.5 out there still using the original sails. Hopefully the boat you are considering will pass a survey. It is very nice sailing boat.
Your observations should not cause you much concern. The stuffing box has never been an issue I have seen on this board. So far it has lasted 12-15 years so if there is any problem it should be pretty apparent by now. The drainage issue has been discussed many times and should be in the achives. They did not put a weep hole because that would allow water possibly containg oil or diesel into the bilge. This would then be pumped overboard which is violation of Federal law. Read the sticker inside the engine compartment. Read the archives to see how some have dealt with this issue. Again this more of an aggrevation than a substantive issue. I would recommend that you epoxy coat the underside of the sole where ever possible. Yes the Hunter has swept back spreaders which can chafe the mainsail. Solutions are wear patches. spreader tip covers and tack downwind which is more effective. There are many 28.5 out there still using the original sails. Hopefully the boat you are considering will pass a survey. It is very nice sailing boat.
Gybing downwind is faster
in almost any sailboat. Even with the most efficient downwind rig - a symetrical spinnaker - racing boats usually gybe downwind because they go faster that way. David Lady Lillie
in almost any sailboat. Even with the most efficient downwind rig - a symetrical spinnaker - racing boats usually gybe downwind because they go faster that way. David Lady Lillie
Love that 285!!
Warren, I've owned my Hunter (1987) 285 for three years now and it's my first boat. Did a lot of research on the web before buying her and found mostly poistive feedback and some negatives but you get that with even new boats. To address your concerns, the plastic packing box has not been an issue. Yes, it does drip a bit while the shaft is turning but it's suppose to and I've never had enough water in the aft bilge for it to be a problem. Besides, Jeff is right, oil in the bay is a no-no. I even keep an oil absorbing material (sorry I can't remeber what it's called) in the aft bilge to pick up any oil from the engine. I may install a dripless box sooner or later but it's not been a problem. The rigging is a bit of a problem on a run but I don't like to run unless I have to which is rare. I'd rather gybe down wind in any sailboat. Still, my sails are original with the kind of wear you'd expect for a 1987 boat but I expect to keep them for a few more seasons. I will be getting them cleaned by a pro this year casue I simply don't have the time or place. There are some other things you should think about with a 285. REPLACE ALL THOSE GATE VALVES! I had the raw water intake valve (a gate) freeze closed on me and had to have the boat hauled in mid-season to replace it. The rest of the gates are going this winter to be replaced with proper sea cocks and I'm going to put a strainer on the raw water intake (on the hull) because I've gotten two engine over heat warnings because of grass clogging the filter. I even check the filter before I start the engine. I can almost bet that the rudder on the boat is delaminated. A common problem with 285s and one that has to be delta with too. I pulled the rudder last year, cut it open (pulled off the outside skin) in the places where it was bulging and drilled about 60 drainage holes to let the water out. I also "baked" the rudder in a home made clear plastic tent-oven (with a heater inside) for about 4 or 5 weeks. It was amazing how much water came out. After it was dried out I refilled the holes and patched the sides using the "West System" products. It cost me about $300 in total. A new rudder runs about $1500. I also pulled all of the old decorative tape off the hull and cabin sides and replaced it with a single tape line on the hull only. Looks a lot cleaner. Also replace hand rails and re-conditioned the teak helm seat. I've also added a battery charger and tank monitor (freash water, waste and fuel) and a dodger. This winter I plan to put a bowsprit on her with an anchor roller. Something I think will help a lot with handling the anchor. I've done a lot to her and have plans for more improvements but I think it's well worth it because she is a good boat and one that I can handle very well by myself. My wife and I have had some great times with her on the bay.
Warren, I've owned my Hunter (1987) 285 for three years now and it's my first boat. Did a lot of research on the web before buying her and found mostly poistive feedback and some negatives but you get that with even new boats. To address your concerns, the plastic packing box has not been an issue. Yes, it does drip a bit while the shaft is turning but it's suppose to and I've never had enough water in the aft bilge for it to be a problem. Besides, Jeff is right, oil in the bay is a no-no. I even keep an oil absorbing material (sorry I can't remeber what it's called) in the aft bilge to pick up any oil from the engine. I may install a dripless box sooner or later but it's not been a problem. The rigging is a bit of a problem on a run but I don't like to run unless I have to which is rare. I'd rather gybe down wind in any sailboat. Still, my sails are original with the kind of wear you'd expect for a 1987 boat but I expect to keep them for a few more seasons. I will be getting them cleaned by a pro this year casue I simply don't have the time or place. There are some other things you should think about with a 285. REPLACE ALL THOSE GATE VALVES! I had the raw water intake valve (a gate) freeze closed on me and had to have the boat hauled in mid-season to replace it. The rest of the gates are going this winter to be replaced with proper sea cocks and I'm going to put a strainer on the raw water intake (on the hull) because I've gotten two engine over heat warnings because of grass clogging the filter. I even check the filter before I start the engine. I can almost bet that the rudder on the boat is delaminated. A common problem with 285s and one that has to be delta with too. I pulled the rudder last year, cut it open (pulled off the outside skin) in the places where it was bulging and drilled about 60 drainage holes to let the water out. I also "baked" the rudder in a home made clear plastic tent-oven (with a heater inside) for about 4 or 5 weeks. It was amazing how much water came out. After it was dried out I refilled the holes and patched the sides using the "West System" products. It cost me about $300 in total. A new rudder runs about $1500. I also pulled all of the old decorative tape off the hull and cabin sides and replaced it with a single tape line on the hull only. Looks a lot cleaner. Also replace hand rails and re-conditioned the teak helm seat. I've also added a battery charger and tank monitor (freash water, waste and fuel) and a dodger. This winter I plan to put a bowsprit on her with an anchor roller. Something I think will help a lot with handling the anchor. I've done a lot to her and have plans for more improvements but I think it's well worth it because she is a good boat and one that I can handle very well by myself. My wife and I have had some great times with her on the bay.
Hunter 28.5 review down wind sailing
I have an 84 28.5 which I believe is the same boat design. The boat does great sailing down wind. I just spent a week with my 3 kids sailing from Perdido Bay in Alabama to Panama City, Fla. I even had it in the Gulf of Mexico. My wife's only complaint is that it heals over too easily. My sails are the originals and they have not been chafed by the spreader though it does lay up against it at times when sailing down wind. I have pulled the sails away from the spreaders and it did not seem to make any difference in down wind speed. I do see water puddle just ahead of the motor. I usually see water come out on the floor after healing way over. But, its not any amount worth worrying about. I motored from Alabama to sandestin Florida with a 15 to 20 knot wind on my nose pulling a Zodiac dinghy with a 10hp motor. Was roughly 16 hours of motoring and burned 5.4 gallons of fuel! The water puddle was insignificant. I don't know about the packing. I have not had mine repacked. The diesel had 500 hours on it at time of purchase so it may have never been repacked. I have had the boat now for the last 3 years. I have thoroughly enjoyed it. For the size and money it is hard to beat. I will not be selling mine anytime soon. I would certainly recommend it.
I have an 84 28.5 which I believe is the same boat design. The boat does great sailing down wind. I just spent a week with my 3 kids sailing from Perdido Bay in Alabama to Panama City, Fla. I even had it in the Gulf of Mexico. My wife's only complaint is that it heals over too easily. My sails are the originals and they have not been chafed by the spreader though it does lay up against it at times when sailing down wind. I have pulled the sails away from the spreaders and it did not seem to make any difference in down wind speed. I do see water puddle just ahead of the motor. I usually see water come out on the floor after healing way over. But, its not any amount worth worrying about. I motored from Alabama to sandestin Florida with a 15 to 20 knot wind on my nose pulling a Zodiac dinghy with a 10hp motor. Was roughly 16 hours of motoring and burned 5.4 gallons of fuel! The water puddle was insignificant. I don't know about the packing. I have not had mine repacked. The diesel had 500 hours on it at time of purchase so it may have never been repacked. I have had the boat now for the last 3 years. I have thoroughly enjoyed it. For the size and money it is hard to beat. I will not be selling mine anytime soon. I would certainly recommend it.
My 28.5
First I heartily agree that if the boat still has gate valves they must be yanked and replaced. Risk of catastrophic failure is very high. You may be required to replace them by the marine insurance company. I was required to remove them, and no regrets there because I discovered all but one were totally shot. Second, I also agree rudder blisters and delamination are both common and aggrevating. But repairs are an ounce of prevention for the pound of cure replacing the thing. I have cured nearly 20 blisters and one 8" diameter delaminated area. The rudder is currently baking under (low) heat lamps. Also take note that you are not supposed to paint the rudder with a dark bottom paint. OEM says this causes overheating and leads to delamination. Third, the stuffing box drip does drain into the area that is designed to trap oil and/or spilt fuel from the engine and keep it out of the bilge, which is a very good thing. Take note that there are weep holes on either side of the engine mount fiberglass at the base of the engine compartment. However, I believe water will flow over the stringer in front of the engine compartment and beneath the floor before it would back up high enough to make it to these two weep holes. Fourth, never had a problem with the rig though I can see where sail chaffe can be a problem. So far so good for me. We gybe downwind. I think it a more fun anyway. Fifth, the plastic stuffing box is not a problem. I replaced mine when I had to replace a bent propeller shaft. But the plastic nut seemed in good shape after 15 years of service. It was a 'might as well' afterthought during the shaft replacement. I went with a traditional bronze stuffing box w/drip as I felt the dripless box was too expensive for the supposed benefit. In my biased opinion, the 28.5 is one of the best day-sailor's on the used boat market. Fun to sail, and enough amenities to accomodate over-night stays.
First I heartily agree that if the boat still has gate valves they must be yanked and replaced. Risk of catastrophic failure is very high. You may be required to replace them by the marine insurance company. I was required to remove them, and no regrets there because I discovered all but one were totally shot. Second, I also agree rudder blisters and delamination are both common and aggrevating. But repairs are an ounce of prevention for the pound of cure replacing the thing. I have cured nearly 20 blisters and one 8" diameter delaminated area. The rudder is currently baking under (low) heat lamps. Also take note that you are not supposed to paint the rudder with a dark bottom paint. OEM says this causes overheating and leads to delamination. Third, the stuffing box drip does drain into the area that is designed to trap oil and/or spilt fuel from the engine and keep it out of the bilge, which is a very good thing. Take note that there are weep holes on either side of the engine mount fiberglass at the base of the engine compartment. However, I believe water will flow over the stringer in front of the engine compartment and beneath the floor before it would back up high enough to make it to these two weep holes. Fourth, never had a problem with the rig though I can see where sail chaffe can be a problem. So far so good for me. We gybe downwind. I think it a more fun anyway. Fifth, the plastic stuffing box is not a problem. I replaced mine when I had to replace a bent propeller shaft. But the plastic nut seemed in good shape after 15 years of service. It was a 'might as well' afterthought during the shaft replacement. I went with a traditional bronze stuffing box w/drip as I felt the dripless box was too expensive for the supposed benefit. In my biased opinion, the 28.5 is one of the best day-sailor's on the used boat market. Fun to sail, and enough amenities to accomodate over-night stays.
28.5 Group Info
The last several responses said it all pretty much per the history of my '86 28.5. I've changed out the plastic stuffing box for traditional bronze just for peace of mind. I've replaced all the gate valves with bronze ball valves after one froze in the closed position and one had it's internal shaft deteriorated from electrolysis. The main will loose its stitching on batten pockets and the leach may start to hook a little and you may see 'stretch marks' when the sail starts to show it's age, but it is unlikely to get beat up on the spreaders. When you do replace it go for longer IOR battens but NOT full battens and get a loose foot dacron main, measured for the boat by a local sailmaker. If you get it cut higher at the clew so the bottom of the boom end is at least 6'-2" off the deck, you can fit a nice bimini 5'-6" long BY 7' wide. To find info specific to the 28.5's try http://groups.yahoo.com/group/huntertwentyeightfive/
The last several responses said it all pretty much per the history of my '86 28.5. I've changed out the plastic stuffing box for traditional bronze just for peace of mind. I've replaced all the gate valves with bronze ball valves after one froze in the closed position and one had it's internal shaft deteriorated from electrolysis. The main will loose its stitching on batten pockets and the leach may start to hook a little and you may see 'stretch marks' when the sail starts to show it's age, but it is unlikely to get beat up on the spreaders. When you do replace it go for longer IOR battens but NOT full battens and get a loose foot dacron main, measured for the boat by a local sailmaker. If you get it cut higher at the clew so the bottom of the boom end is at least 6'-2" off the deck, you can fit a nice bimini 5'-6" long BY 7' wide. To find info specific to the 28.5's try http://groups.yahoo.com/group/huntertwentyeightfive/
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