My compression post(between the sole and the keel)is very badly rusted. I've seen references in past forums about changing the mild steel tube to a stainless tube. Can anyone tell me how this is done? How is the old tube removed? There doesn't appear to be enough room to just slide it out. Must the sole be cut away to gain enough access room for removal and installation?
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Check the archives
I would look in the Cheribini forum archives, searching on compression post. I believe the 33, and 37c share your steel support for the compression post or the mast. Our h27 is a different design, so I have no other help for you. David Lady Lillie
I would look in the Cheribini forum archives, searching on compression post. I believe the 33, and 37c share your steel support for the compression post or the mast. Our h27 is a different design, so I have no other help for you. David Lady Lillie
My post
Gene, Seems that I have a problem that I've been trying to ignore. I assume my post is one piece from the bottom of the deck to the keel. Our masts are deck stepped. Have you removed the teak on the aft side of the compression post to inspect or only looked between the sole and keel as shown in my photo? I can't tell what has been done to mine. I'm opet to suggestions.
Gene, Seems that I have a problem that I've been trying to ignore. I assume my post is one piece from the bottom of the deck to the keel. Our masts are deck stepped. Have you removed the teak on the aft side of the compression post to inspect or only looked between the sole and keel as shown in my photo? I can't tell what has been done to mine. I'm opet to suggestions.
My post
Gene, Seems that I have a cpost problem that I've been trying to ignore. I assume my post is one piece from the bottom of the deck to the keel. Our masts are deck stepped. Have you removed the teak on the aft side of the compression post to inspect or only looked between the sole and keel as shown in my photo? I can't tell what has been done to mine. Suggestions?
Gene, Seems that I have a cpost problem that I've been trying to ignore. I assume my post is one piece from the bottom of the deck to the keel. Our masts are deck stepped. Have you removed the teak on the aft side of the compression post to inspect or only looked between the sole and keel as shown in my photo? I can't tell what has been done to mine. Suggestions?
Short tube
I have completely removed the post and teak cover between the deck and the sole. the compression post is definitely just a short tube with plates attached top and bottom. It does not appear to be attached to the sole but does seem to be bedded in some kind of compound. Thickened epoxy?
I have completely removed the post and teak cover between the deck and the sole. the compression post is definitely just a short tube with plates attached top and bottom. It does not appear to be attached to the sole but does seem to be bedded in some kind of compound. Thickened epoxy?
I just replaced the support
The short metal post completely crumbled on my '80 H-36. so I used an air chisel to cut away the bottom bedding materials. Once I had a clean surface, I constructed a new post out of pressure treated pine timber (4x4) and 2ea. 2x6 plates, jammed the parts into the into their place and secured the post with SS screws. I could work through the bathroom bilge access plate and the main bilge cover. Good for another 20 years! (-
)
The short metal post completely crumbled on my '80 H-36. so I used an air chisel to cut away the bottom bedding materials. Once I had a clean surface, I constructed a new post out of pressure treated pine timber (4x4) and 2ea. 2x6 plates, jammed the parts into the into their place and secured the post with SS screws. I could work through the bathroom bilge access plate and the main bilge cover. Good for another 20 years! (-
)Take a trip to a local metal fabricator
We got a piece of steel I-beam for $25.00. Make sure you take your rusty post with you to get the correct height.
We got a piece of steel I-beam for $25.00. Make sure you take your rusty post with you to get the correct height.
what is a short post?
Is the post one piece of rould steel tubing between the deck and the keel below the sole? As I said earlier, I have not removed the post cover. I assume that I also have to have the mast removed before this repair or risk a mast being pulled through the deck. I think I'm gonna be kicking myself in the aft section!!
Is the post one piece of rould steel tubing between the deck and the keel below the sole? As I said earlier, I have not removed the post cover. I assume that I also have to have the mast removed before this repair or risk a mast being pulled through the deck. I think I'm gonna be kicking myself in the aft section!!
Pine is not stable
Whatever you do, select any wood you use carefully. Look for JC II's recent post on wood selection. Pine does not have the dimensional stability required for a compression post! David Lady Lillie
Whatever you do, select any wood you use carefully. Look for JC II's recent post on wood selection. Pine does not have the dimensional stability required for a compression post! David Lady Lillie
Do NOT use pressure-treated yellow pine on boats!
Thanks, David, for the vote of confidence. Here is the link you mentioned. I would LOVE to believe Richard's compression post will last another 20 years... my money says it'll be 2 inches shorter by then, and 1/2" shorter by this weekend. Mind the sagging deck! JC 2
Thanks, David, for the vote of confidence. Here is the link you mentioned. I would LOVE to believe Richard's compression post will last another 20 years... my money says it'll be 2 inches shorter by then, and 1/2" shorter by this weekend. Mind the sagging deck! JC 2
Pressure treated wood for a wet location
JC 2's reasons for not using pressure treated yellow pine are very valid. Poisonous for sure, but I have to cross an acre of treated planks to get to my boat! My previous response was to Gene, who needed a 7 inch support under his boat's sole. Sure, a stainless piece of pipe would be choice, but how difficult is it to install and to expand it to the proper dimension? An air dried piece of 4x4 sanwiched between 2 square pieces of 2x6 can simply jammed tight into the small space and actually will expand in the humid bilge environment, not shrink! I am sure it will be more stable than that cheap piece of iron which was factory engineered and prematurely crumbled. Richard P.S. I have 40 acres of yellow pine growing behind the house. Because of the superior strengh, this wood is used for power poles! (-)
JC 2's reasons for not using pressure treated yellow pine are very valid. Poisonous for sure, but I have to cross an acre of treated planks to get to my boat! My previous response was to Gene, who needed a 7 inch support under his boat's sole. Sure, a stainless piece of pipe would be choice, but how difficult is it to install and to expand it to the proper dimension? An air dried piece of 4x4 sanwiched between 2 square pieces of 2x6 can simply jammed tight into the small space and actually will expand in the humid bilge environment, not shrink! I am sure it will be more stable than that cheap piece of iron which was factory engineered and prematurely crumbled. Richard P.S. I have 40 acres of yellow pine growing behind the house. Because of the superior strengh, this wood is used for power poles! (-
)pine in ships
For a little historical perspective from the golden age of wooden ships on marine uses of pine, the link is to a contemporary newspaper article referencing a new Donald McKay clipper ship. Southern (hard) pine was used in many places throughout the ship, most notably for its spars, decking, and planking, Pine, (and most other structural woods) axial dimensional change with varying moisture content is normally negligible, (a few tenths of a percent) so Richard's solution of using a 4x4 post section is perfectly appropriate. Since tangential (parallel to the rings)and radial shrinkage is more than axial shrinkage in pine and in any other wood, if a plate is required at the end of the post section, aluminum plate might be considered rather than 2x6 treated. My 1979 H33 has an aluminum post which, even though it ends in the corrosive environment of the bilge, still is sound after 25 years in salt water. Any treated pine used should be labeled for ground contact and this would automatically include just about any 4x4 post which is normally used for ground imbedded posts. So far as the poisonous nature of pressure treated pine, about the only caution perhaps applicable here is just don't drink the bilge water.
For a little historical perspective from the golden age of wooden ships on marine uses of pine, the link is to a contemporary newspaper article referencing a new Donald McKay clipper ship. Southern (hard) pine was used in many places throughout the ship, most notably for its spars, decking, and planking, Pine, (and most other structural woods) axial dimensional change with varying moisture content is normally negligible, (a few tenths of a percent) so Richard's solution of using a 4x4 post section is perfectly appropriate. Since tangential (parallel to the rings)and radial shrinkage is more than axial shrinkage in pine and in any other wood, if a plate is required at the end of the post section, aluminum plate might be considered rather than 2x6 treated. My 1979 H33 has an aluminum post which, even though it ends in the corrosive environment of the bilge, still is sound after 25 years in salt water. Any treated pine used should be labeled for ground contact and this would automatically include just about any 4x4 post which is normally used for ground imbedded posts. So far as the poisonous nature of pressure treated pine, about the only caution perhaps applicable here is just don't drink the bilge water.
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