Well boy here it is ! How bad is it? I have a 73' oday 23 Last weekend it was cold and I decided to replace the wall between the v-berth and cabin. It was rotton because the previous owner did not like to repair leaks. I unscrewed the wall at the base of the bench seat and side of the hull and it would not slide it out of the grooves because of this 2x2 piece of wood that was what I thought was a corner piece. As I hit it with a hammer I noticed it was under presure and so did my wife. I hit it a few more times and the wife asked if I still wanted to do this. I said in a few more hits I will have it. Well, I did and the cabin top sunk about 2 inches. I did not know if I need to abandon ship. ( I forgot, the mast still up and tension on the shrouds) After 3 hours of jacking, cutting the new wall to try to get it to fit. I have given up and now think of sinking this ship..... No really but I'm stumped and need help. 1. I guess I need to take the mast down. It is not hinged, so I guess the mast slides over something at the top of the cabin to hold it in place? 2. Most people say that the chainplate has 4 bolts coming thru the top of the cabin. I have only two, is that a problem? 3. Once I get the mast down how much easier will this be to jack the cabin ceiling up? 4. Will the hull come back to form. I cut what I thought was a duplicate wall from the orginal and it won't fit. Thanks for the input.. Clif
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Bob
Your plan is OK - be careful
Hi Clif, Repaired a 23' SeaSprite with a failed mast support structure. Cabin top was down about 2". Answers follow you questions 1. I guess I need to take the mast down. It is not hinged, so I guess the mast slides over something at the top of the cabin to hold it in place? You may be able to raise the cabin top without dropping the mast. I would drop it if not too difficult. Otherwise, loosen stays and jack the cabin top into position. If you drop the mast - You will need to lift the mast. I used a small crane with a strap under the spreaders to lift the mast. Possible to build an "A" frame to lift the mast. 2. Most people say that the chainplate has 4 bolts coming thru the top of the cabin. I have only two, is that a problem? Chain plates should not be a problem. 3. Once I get the mast down how much easier will this be to jack the cabin ceiling up? You will be able to push it almost of the way by hand. I used small hydraulic jacks becasue the 23 SeaSprite uses an arch - so both ends needed to be raised into postion and held there while the new fiberglass setup. 4. Will the hull come back to form. I cut what I thought was a duplicate wall from the orginal and it won't fit. The hull shoud go back to the original place unless the fiberglass cracked. If you find cracks - add new fiberglass. Good Luck, Bob
Hi Clif, Repaired a 23' SeaSprite with a failed mast support structure. Cabin top was down about 2". Answers follow you questions 1. I guess I need to take the mast down. It is not hinged, so I guess the mast slides over something at the top of the cabin to hold it in place? You may be able to raise the cabin top without dropping the mast. I would drop it if not too difficult. Otherwise, loosen stays and jack the cabin top into position. If you drop the mast - You will need to lift the mast. I used a small crane with a strap under the spreaders to lift the mast. Possible to build an "A" frame to lift the mast. 2. Most people say that the chainplate has 4 bolts coming thru the top of the cabin. I have only two, is that a problem? Chain plates should not be a problem. 3. Once I get the mast down how much easier will this be to jack the cabin ceiling up? You will be able to push it almost of the way by hand. I used small hydraulic jacks becasue the 23 SeaSprite uses an arch - so both ends needed to be raised into postion and held there while the new fiberglass setup. 4. Will the hull come back to form. I cut what I thought was a duplicate wall from the orginal and it won't fit. The hull shoud go back to the original place unless the fiberglass cracked. If you find cracks - add new fiberglass. Good Luck, Bob
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CLIF
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Bob
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R.W.Landau
White oak...
Use white oak, it is what they make wine barrels from. Red oak will rot if exposed to water and the price should be minimally different. For the size of piece you are going to buy, mohogany would not kill your pocket either. r.w.landau
Use white oak, it is what they make wine barrels from. Red oak will rot if exposed to water and the price should be minimally different. For the size of piece you are going to buy, mohogany would not kill your pocket either. r.w.landau
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Gerry
Compression post repair
Hi Clif, When you go to do this it will be much easier on you and the hull if you lower the mast first. It will be essential to relieve all pressure on the hull to get anything to fit correctly. Lowering the mast not only relieves the standing rigging tension but it also removes the weight from the cabin roof. Once the mast is either removed or held up as mentioned in other posts the decking should somewhat return to its original shape unless the fiberglass has been damaged. If it has, you need to make the appropriate repairs after you get the new compression post installed. No sense in fixing the fiberglass only to flex it again to get your cabin roof back into position. Materials to use, You can use a stainless pole if you are into the high tech look, Any of the oak family will work if you use the proper sealing materials to keep it from getting any of the humidity related problems. There are many wonderful polyurethane products on the market that will prevent any wood from warping or rotting in a boat. Use a dense fiber wood like oak or hard maple. My favorite is a wood called Paulupe. It is so dense that it doesn’t float. You can’t drive a nail through it either. All holes must be pre drilled. This wood has become the favorite of dock builders because it’s so dense that water can’t penetrate it and so the wood doesn’t rot. Hopefully this gives you some other information.
Hi Clif, When you go to do this it will be much easier on you and the hull if you lower the mast first. It will be essential to relieve all pressure on the hull to get anything to fit correctly. Lowering the mast not only relieves the standing rigging tension but it also removes the weight from the cabin roof. Once the mast is either removed or held up as mentioned in other posts the decking should somewhat return to its original shape unless the fiberglass has been damaged. If it has, you need to make the appropriate repairs after you get the new compression post installed. No sense in fixing the fiberglass only to flex it again to get your cabin roof back into position. Materials to use, You can use a stainless pole if you are into the high tech look, Any of the oak family will work if you use the proper sealing materials to keep it from getting any of the humidity related problems. There are many wonderful polyurethane products on the market that will prevent any wood from warping or rotting in a boat. Use a dense fiber wood like oak or hard maple. My favorite is a wood called Paulupe. It is so dense that it doesn’t float. You can’t drive a nail through it either. All holes must be pre drilled. This wood has become the favorite of dock builders because it’s so dense that water can’t penetrate it and so the wood doesn’t rot. Hopefully this gives you some other information.
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clif
Thanks
Thank you for your repsonses I think I'm going with white oak. The post is only 1 3/4 by 1 3/4 and 52" long. I also got some white fpl board and but some sub-flooring between it. Looks like the white material that is in kitchens. Glued it together. Looks fine. There are no visual cracks yet but I will wait until I'm finished too say that too loud. clif
Thank you for your repsonses I think I'm going with white oak. The post is only 1 3/4 by 1 3/4 and 52" long. I also got some white fpl board and but some sub-flooring between it. Looks like the white material that is in kitchens. Glued it together. Looks fine. There are no visual cracks yet but I will wait until I'm finished too say that too loud. clif
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neil
I did it
I also have an oday 23. Last year my larger bulkhead (port side) rotted out and the chainplate on that side pulled up. I nugged that support out of the way and was able to replace the bulkhead. Did a damn nice job if I may say so (w/ the help of my brother-in-law / not a 1 man project). My guess is that you'll have to take the mast down at this point to take off all pressure. Not very difficult and you'll be able to do mast maintenance quite easily.
I also have an oday 23. Last year my larger bulkhead (port side) rotted out and the chainplate on that side pulled up. I nugged that support out of the way and was able to replace the bulkhead. Did a damn nice job if I may say so (w/ the help of my brother-in-law / not a 1 man project). My guess is that you'll have to take the mast down at this point to take off all pressure. Not very difficult and you'll be able to do mast maintenance quite easily.
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