Compression post insert
- Thread starter Jared1048
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Jared:
I am not sure that anyone else has done this type of a fix.
Typically it has been the compression post that is rotted.
There are a few repair jobs that are posted for H'31 & H'34's modifications.
I am not sure that anyone else has done this type of a fix.
Typically it has been the compression post that is rotted.
There are a few repair jobs that are posted for H'31 & H'34's modifications.
Did you remove the teak trim to expose the compression post. I doubt there was teak in transverse section. As Steve stated, usually the CP rots. Had a similar block fabricated for $90.00. Rotted compresion post had been replaced several years earlier - long story posted earlier.
I just replaced the compression post of my H31 in January. The cross beam was fir. This was cut out with a oscillating cutter tool. I too deliberated on an aluminum spacer, but opted for a less expensive and easier fix. My spacer is fabricated from a piece of high density plastic. It was easy for me to “machine to fit” the piece to closely match the upper contours (smeared ink method) and wire pipe. This spacer was epoxied in position and after curing a couple days, I installed a new wooden post. My story also was posted earlier.
Maybe the cross beam wasnt teak and was fir. In either case it wasnt in very good shape. Vibrating tool made quick order of the job though! One of the best tool purchases so far. 3 ft snake with led light and claw at the end would be probably a close second (grabbing lost piece of rigging that fell to bottom step inside mast). but I digress...
anyways, it sounds like I didnt get too ripped off by the shop.
anyways, it sounds like I didnt get too ripped off by the shop.
David,
My H31 was in the water.
Shrouds were slackened (only one side was necessary) and two jacks with temporary posts (2 sets of sandwiched 2x4’s) used to lift the crossbeam. I scribed the outside of the old post at the crossbeam with a sharpie marker then lifted just enough for the rotted compression post to be removed. The fiberglass crossbeam was opened up and the rotted fir wood removed with a Harbor Freight oscillating tool. Worked like butter! A spacer and epoxy (used to level the spacer) is used to fill the crossbeam void, wires sealed and then a new wood compression post I fabricated was installed. All went smoothly with no surprises.
PS. It seems that weep holes at the base of the mast also help eliminated the water intrusion in to the compression post.
My H31 was in the water.
Shrouds were slackened (only one side was necessary) and two jacks with temporary posts (2 sets of sandwiched 2x4’s) used to lift the crossbeam. I scribed the outside of the old post at the crossbeam with a sharpie marker then lifted just enough for the rotted compression post to be removed. The fiberglass crossbeam was opened up and the rotted fir wood removed with a Harbor Freight oscillating tool. Worked like butter! A spacer and epoxy (used to level the spacer) is used to fill the crossbeam void, wires sealed and then a new wood compression post I fabricated was installed. All went smoothly with no surprises.
PS. It seems that weep holes at the base of the mast also help eliminated the water intrusion in to the compression post.
Not really, job is still in progress. I added a quarter inch to the height to add positive draining but I couldnt get the post in. It was a really close fit so I took a rubber mallet to it and it didnt like that. I need to remove the post again and shave off 3/16ths of an inch. There is also an error in the diagram the slot running from the inside of the u to the left needs to be on the underside if that makes sense. There is a wire for the vhf that runs out to the port side of the boat through the a-beam. As the drawing is shown when you push the insert up it hits the wire and isnt in the groove that was put there. Whoops!
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