Hi: I was reading the postings from Fred, Don, Daryl and Steve D. on the previous compression post topic and some older postings as well and thank you all for most of the information that I need as I venture into repairing the base of the compression post on my 78 Hunter 30. The post is in good shape and solid. My question is where can I buy the metal "T"?? bracket that supports the post between the bilge floor and cabin "floor". It is all corroded and the wood is almost all gone to water saturation. Someone suggested fiberglass instead of metal. Any other ideas would be appreciated. Simon Bucephalas II Miami
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Tammy
I Beam for compression Post
Simon, We own a 79 H30 & also had problems the suppost located in the bilge. We got a piece of iron from a local metal fabrication shop. After chiseling out the epoxy that held the I Beam in place my husband went to a local shop to see about having one made up but they had a stock I Beam that was the same height but not quite as wide. It only cost $25.00 for a new beam. Which was a lot cheaper than having a custom beam made up. Luckily the wood compression post is in perfect condition. Good luck !
Simon, We own a 79 H30 & also had problems the suppost located in the bilge. We got a piece of iron from a local metal fabrication shop. After chiseling out the epoxy that held the I Beam in place my husband went to a local shop to see about having one made up but they had a stock I Beam that was the same height but not quite as wide. It only cost $25.00 for a new beam. Which was a lot cheaper than having a custom beam made up. Luckily the wood compression post is in perfect condition. Good luck !
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Simon
Thanks!
Tammy did you have to take your mast down? If not did you jack-up the space about 1/8of inch as I have read here? Sorry for picking your brain but I am quite the novice... but hearty for a challenge. Thanks, Simon
Tammy did you have to take your mast down? If not did you jack-up the space about 1/8of inch as I have read here? Sorry for picking your brain but I am quite the novice... but hearty for a challenge. Thanks, Simon
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Tammy
Compression Post Woes
I've found someone more green than me ;D! The mast was down when we did all the work. It was pretty time consuming to back out all the teak bungs on the trim around the post. Have you looked in the photo forum and seen the pictures of the compression post that was rotted from water leak. It's not for the faint hearted. You also have to remove the table & bracket that supports it. Then there is always backing out the 50 million screws that hold the trim together. Once the compression post was exposed we just tapped it with a hammer at the base of the post towards the stern. There are bolts that attach through the cabin roof that hold the mast boot on and two of the nuts are inside the post. At least that's the way ours was. Then we got to work with a hammer & chisels to get through the epoxy that was holding the I beam in place. When we put everything back together we are going to use a piece of 3/4 inch oak as a spacer between the I beam & compression post. Our boat had a piece of 3/4 inch plywood & it was a little squished. We have a busy summer ahead of us putting the boat back together so that we can put it back in the water next year and see how the new engine works. Anything would have to be better that that Yanmar.
I've found someone more green than me ;D! The mast was down when we did all the work. It was pretty time consuming to back out all the teak bungs on the trim around the post. Have you looked in the photo forum and seen the pictures of the compression post that was rotted from water leak. It's not for the faint hearted. You also have to remove the table & bracket that supports it. Then there is always backing out the 50 million screws that hold the trim together. Once the compression post was exposed we just tapped it with a hammer at the base of the post towards the stern. There are bolts that attach through the cabin roof that hold the mast boot on and two of the nuts are inside the post. At least that's the way ours was. Then we got to work with a hammer & chisels to get through the epoxy that was holding the I beam in place. When we put everything back together we are going to use a piece of 3/4 inch oak as a spacer between the I beam & compression post. Our boat had a piece of 3/4 inch plywood & it was a little squished. We have a busy summer ahead of us putting the boat back together so that we can put it back in the water next year and see how the new engine works. Anything would have to be better that that Yanmar.
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John
I Beam woes...
I had to replace the I Beam, but not the compression post. I did the same in chiseling out the old. Not sure if yours is like this Tammy, but mine ( 78H30 ) was cut at an angle at the front on the bottom. This was probably part due to the bilge narrowing, and part I think to help make a wedge to keep it in place. Anyway, I also got an I beam from a fabricator, and had them cut the same wedge shape. Problem was, the first guy used the wrong height and tossed my original. And since he took a month to do it ( he said it would be 2 days ), I forgot what the exact height was to verify his work. Second guy did it perfect in 1 day. Both were about $ 50. Moral is, Simon, the beam is exactly 8 inches high. But if you ask for, or are told its an "8 in I beam", that's 8&1/4 high......big difference. You beed 8in high, and then they have to cut the width off and then make your wedge. I also had them make another small wedge at the opposite end, then painted it all, filled around the base with thickended epoxy and glassed over. That thing's not moving now. Good luck, John
I had to replace the I Beam, but not the compression post. I did the same in chiseling out the old. Not sure if yours is like this Tammy, but mine ( 78H30 ) was cut at an angle at the front on the bottom. This was probably part due to the bilge narrowing, and part I think to help make a wedge to keep it in place. Anyway, I also got an I beam from a fabricator, and had them cut the same wedge shape. Problem was, the first guy used the wrong height and tossed my original. And since he took a month to do it ( he said it would be 2 days ), I forgot what the exact height was to verify his work. Second guy did it perfect in 1 day. Both were about $ 50. Moral is, Simon, the beam is exactly 8 inches high. But if you ask for, or are told its an "8 in I beam", that's 8&1/4 high......big difference. You beed 8in high, and then they have to cut the width off and then make your wedge. I also had them make another small wedge at the opposite end, then painted it all, filled around the base with thickended epoxy and glassed over. That thing's not moving now. Good luck, John
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John
that being said
it's a really easy job now that I know what to do. Once I had the right beam, took me all of 1 hour to install and glass.
it's a really easy job now that I know what to do. Once I had the right beam, took me all of 1 hour to install and glass.
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Tammy
I Beam shape
John, The I beam we have is slightly wedge shaped. And our origonal got chucked also. We noticed that there was always a little water in the area in front of the beam as the epoxy that held the beam in place prevented drainage. When we put new beam in we are planning on providing some sort of drain. Probably put in a section of PVC pipe before we glass the beam in. Totally off the subject,,,, this weekend we are pulling all the spaghetti (wires) in preparation to rewire.;D
John, The I beam we have is slightly wedge shaped. And our origonal got chucked also. We noticed that there was always a little water in the area in front of the beam as the epoxy that held the beam in place prevented drainage. When we put new beam in we are planning on providing some sort of drain. Probably put in a section of PVC pipe before we glass the beam in. Totally off the subject,,,, this weekend we are pulling all the spaghetti (wires) in preparation to rewire.;D
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