I have a ’79 Hunter 30 and need to replace the companionway hatch. (about 22” x 22”) Has anyone used Starboard (or a similar product) for the companionway hatch? Is it strong enough to stand on when changing sails, etc? Does it warp, fade or crack? How thick should it be for this application? Thanks in advance for your advice. Jim
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Ron Mills
Did exactly that and have
no regrets at all. No more maintenance of teak. You have to use 1/2" just like the teak because the channels are for 1/2". Here is a link to how mine looks. I also used dolphingray starboard to repalce all the other teak in the cockpit and around the companionway.
no regrets at all. No more maintenance of teak. You have to use 1/2" just like the teak because the channels are for 1/2". Here is a link to how mine looks. I also used dolphingray starboard to repalce all the other teak in the cockpit and around the companionway.
Are we talking about the slider or the boards?
Jim: Are you talking about the companionway boards or the sliding hatch? If you are referring to the sliding hatch, I am not sure how you would fabricate this on the H'30 to make it leak free and slide in the track too (much different than Ron's setup). I would think you may be better off taking what you have to a fiberglass repair shop (automovtive repair or boat repair too) may be able to repair what you have and re-gel coat it or just some paint. Fiberglass can be easily repaired by anyone that is familiar with the process (maybe even you or me).
Jim: Are you talking about the companionway boards or the sliding hatch? If you are referring to the sliding hatch, I am not sure how you would fabricate this on the H'30 to make it leak free and slide in the track too (much different than Ron's setup). I would think you may be better off taking what you have to a fiberglass repair shop (automovtive repair or boat repair too) may be able to repair what you have and re-gel coat it or just some paint. Fiberglass can be easily repaired by anyone that is familiar with the process (maybe even you or me).
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Debra B
Starboard is NOT sturctural.
Best bet is to repair the fiberglass -- or do you have a Lexan slider? You should be able to buy a piece of lexan locally cut roughly to size. Lexan is fairly easy to work with power tools. (You will not find 3/4 inch lexan at home depot. Look under plastics in the Yellow pages.)
Best bet is to repair the fiberglass -- or do you have a Lexan slider? You should be able to buy a piece of lexan locally cut roughly to size. Lexan is fairly easy to work with power tools. (You will not find 3/4 inch lexan at home depot. Look under plastics in the Yellow pages.)
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Jim Arthur
Slider
I was hoping to use the Starboard for the slider, but it looks like that won't work. I'll probably repair the ugly slider that's currently on the boat. Ron, I really like your idea of using the starboard for the boards. Your photo shows a nice clean installation. Thanks all.
I was hoping to use the Starboard for the slider, but it looks like that won't work. I'll probably repair the ugly slider that's currently on the boat. Ron, I really like your idea of using the starboard for the boards. Your photo shows a nice clean installation. Thanks all.
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steve rainey
I have a 78 30" Hunter. My slider hatch cover was worn down to the point where nothing but a little gel coat was actualy sliding on the metal rails. I pulled the hatch and laminated a strip of fiberglass on both sides to ride on the rails. I pulled the old rails, that was alum and remade them out of stainless. Sanded the hatch cover down and sent it to a local fiberglass place to gel coat it. Concerning the companionway door or boards mad out of plywood. I tossed them and had a local plastic shop make me new ones out of half inch smoked plexglass. I tried but couldn't find 3/4 inch. Turned out nice.
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ed lanier
starboard material
After reading this thread relating to starboard material to replace teak trim Iwent to WEST MARINE for a look see.It appears to be a quality product.But i was told sealant would not bond to it and they didn't know if it could be painted.Has anyone had any experience sealing or painting starboard material ?
After reading this thread relating to starboard material to replace teak trim Iwent to WEST MARINE for a look see.It appears to be a quality product.But i was told sealant would not bond to it and they didn't know if it could be painted.Has anyone had any experience sealing or painting starboard material ?
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Ron Mills
I was told the exact same thing.
However, I used Dow Corning 795 to seal around the starbaord that replaced the teak. I also used to "glue" on some Starboard that covered some holes left by the removal of instruments.i.e. on each side of the companionway on a vertical plain. These replacements have not moved nor have they leaked in any way. I cannot explain why it works but it does(it has been over a year since I applied).
However, I used Dow Corning 795 to seal around the starbaord that replaced the teak. I also used to "glue" on some Starboard that covered some holes left by the removal of instruments.i.e. on each side of the companionway on a vertical plain. These replacements have not moved nor have they leaked in any way. I cannot explain why it works but it does(it has been over a year since I applied).
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john renfro
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Gord May
King Starboard
is a great product in some applications - but be aware (beware) that it: Does not glue well (try King "Starbond", Lord "7540-AB", or 3M "Scotch-Weld DP 8005"). Does not accept paint (but comes in "colors"). Has a high "co-efficient of expansion" (expands & contracts /w heat/cold). Is not "structural", and must be well supported. Regards, Gord May
is a great product in some applications - but be aware (beware) that it: Does not glue well (try King "Starbond", Lord "7540-AB", or 3M "Scotch-Weld DP 8005"). Does not accept paint (but comes in "colors"). Has a high "co-efficient of expansion" (expands & contracts /w heat/cold). Is not "structural", and must be well supported. Regards, Gord May
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