The companionway hatch / slider on my 1979 H33 is made of curved plexiglass. My crew jumped on it one too many times on the last race, and it is now cracked on one corner. The crack is quickly spreading to the side, and when it reaches the edge, the slider will be toast. Anyone have suggestions on where to get curved, smoked plexiglass, or a replacement hatch?
Companionway Hatch - H33
- Thread starter cmtimmons
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To save what you got-
- locate the furthest end of the crack and drill a tiny hole there. It will stop the crack from traveling for a while. Maybe even fill with epoxy or such. One of the west coast guys will undoubtedly be able to aim you somewhere.
- locate the furthest end of the crack and drill a tiny hole there. It will stop the crack from traveling for a while. Maybe even fill with epoxy or such. One of the west coast guys will undoubtedly be able to aim you somewhere.
It ain't curved.
It's actually flat, just screwed down to a curved surface, thus making it curve. Any decent glass place should be able to order tinted plexiglass for you. I don't know about the left coast, but I paid $70 for two 1/8" pieces about 12" x 24" over here on the right coast. You need at least 1/4", thicker if you can get it. For some reason, tinted plexi is much more expensive than clear. To attach it, it's easier to remove the hatch frame from the boat. I'd have the plexi cut about 1/2" longer and wider than you need. Position the plexi over the frame, line up and drill for, then install the two center screws fore and aft. Then using wood clamps, or even c-clamps, clamp the four corners down, thus bending the plexi to the frame. Starting from the center screws and working out drill for and install the remaining screws (try to use the old holes in the wood, you might want a slightly larger screw however. Once the frame's screwed down, I'd use a router with a straight bit with guide bearing on the end to cut the plexi down to size. The sides will be angled out (due to the curve) but can be sanded or filed flat. You might want to consider a thin bead of silicone or other sealant between the wood and plexi, but I'm not sure that it's necessary. Hope this helps.
It's actually flat, just screwed down to a curved surface, thus making it curve. Any decent glass place should be able to order tinted plexiglass for you. I don't know about the left coast, but I paid $70 for two 1/8" pieces about 12" x 24" over here on the right coast. You need at least 1/4", thicker if you can get it. For some reason, tinted plexi is much more expensive than clear. To attach it, it's easier to remove the hatch frame from the boat. I'd have the plexi cut about 1/2" longer and wider than you need. Position the plexi over the frame, line up and drill for, then install the two center screws fore and aft. Then using wood clamps, or even c-clamps, clamp the four corners down, thus bending the plexi to the frame. Starting from the center screws and working out drill for and install the remaining screws (try to use the old holes in the wood, you might want a slightly larger screw however. Once the frame's screwed down, I'd use a router with a straight bit with guide bearing on the end to cut the plexi down to size. The sides will be angled out (due to the curve) but can be sanded or filed flat. You might want to consider a thin bead of silicone or other sealant between the wood and plexi, but I'm not sure that it's necessary. Hope this helps.
Actually, it is curved.
I called Hunter and they confirmed that the 1/2 in plexiglas is in fact molded with a curve. They gave me the name of a company who at some point has made a mold, but they no longer mess with them. Anyone have any experience bending plexiglass with heat? I would think that just trying to bend a flat sheet that thick would snap the thin wood strips it attaches to (about 5/8 in thick) or at a minimum would pull the screws out shortly after completion.
I called Hunter and they confirmed that the 1/2 in plexiglas is in fact molded with a curve. They gave me the name of a company who at some point has made a mold, but they no longer mess with them. Anyone have any experience bending plexiglass with heat? I would think that just trying to bend a flat sheet that thick would snap the thin wood strips it attaches to (about 5/8 in thick) or at a minimum would pull the screws out shortly after completion.
Me again!
Hmm! So it was pre-curved. Interesting. Doesn't need to be though. The technique I outlined earlier will allow you to attach flat plexi. I have bent plexi in the past by heating it in the oven at 150 degrees, or by directing a heat gun at the area I was bending, but mostly I did that for tight bends. If you want to see for yourself, practice first with a piece of clear plexi of the correct thickness. Much less expensive while you practice.
Hmm! So it was pre-curved. Interesting. Doesn't need to be though. The technique I outlined earlier will allow you to attach flat plexi. I have bent plexi in the past by heating it in the oven at 150 degrees, or by directing a heat gun at the area I was bending, but mostly I did that for tight bends. If you want to see for yourself, practice first with a piece of clear plexi of the correct thickness. Much less expensive while you practice.
M
Mike D
Bendable
I know that our shop bends lexan but not sure about plexi. I would think you could roll lexan in a conventional roller with no problem. Probably adding some heat would be helpful. Lexan makes a very nice 90 degree bend if the radius is adequate. Even though Lexan is more costly, it is much stronger. I just don't know about its characteristics for resisting sunlight. I have seen lots of cracked plexi that has been walked on. Doing it yourself may be worth the difference in cost. Use the link included and type this catalog number in the find. 8574K58 good luck, Mike D
I know that our shop bends lexan but not sure about plexi. I would think you could roll lexan in a conventional roller with no problem. Probably adding some heat would be helpful. Lexan makes a very nice 90 degree bend if the radius is adequate. Even though Lexan is more costly, it is much stronger. I just don't know about its characteristics for resisting sunlight. I have seen lots of cracked plexi that has been walked on. Doing it yourself may be worth the difference in cost. Use the link included and type this catalog number in the find. 8574K58 good luck, Mike D
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