Combining Chain Rode: Any Experience??

[Rick D]

I have G4 hi-test chain that I would like to add to. My objective is to use all-chain rode in about 30' depth. To do so, I need to add about 30 to 50 feet. The current chain is high quality and in good shape, so I hate to disgard it. Defender has chain connectors from Simpson-Lawrence (but rated at only about half of the working load of the chain). Does this go through the windlass OK? Commonly used? Satisfied? Rick D.

 

[Rich Stidger]

On my 40.5 I did the same thing

Rick,I originally had 40' G4 with 130' 9/16" rode and used it with a Simpson Lawrence windlass. I found that the rode tended to slip or jump out of the gypsy if not under load, and the SL advice was not to have it under high loads.I added another 120' of G4 and I attached it to the end of my existing 40' using a galvanized steel quick link. That is a link with a screw barrel to secure and close the opening.The G4 breaking strength is 11600#, and the 5/16" quick link is 7700#. I know that the quick link is the 'weak link', but I accept that.It will go through the windlass with a 'bump'. No jams yet. I used to stop and lift it over, but after running it through accidently a couple of times, I no longer bother.Rich

 

[Larry W.]

chain link

Rick; If you buy new chain and put your existing piece on the bitter end, you shouln't have to use it too much. I anchor in and around So. Cal. and Mexico and rarely have to put out more than 150 feet of chain. I carry 200 ft.

 

[Jack Tyler]

Mid-Link your strongest choice

Rick, I temporarily added to my H/T chain rode when in the Caribbean by using a Mid-Link. They complain a bit when going over the gypsey but always worked. They are only zinc plated, not hot dipped, but locating them on the rode's bitter end and spraying a bit with Boeshield or similar will prevent this being an issue. Given your preference for H/T chain, it's a shame to add a weaker link when joining chain.BTW do all your shackles rate the same as your chain? That's usually the weak link in continuing all-chain H/T rodes.Jack

 

[Rick D]

Thanks, Everyone, (and BTW Jack..)

.you are correct that the shackles are rated a lot less than the chain. I'm out to fix that too. The mid-link looks good from a working-load perspective. I'll see how it works. Rick D.

 

[Jack Tyler]

HT Shackes available, Rick...

...altho' I don't understand why companies that sell HT chain - e.g. WM, Boater's World et al., don't offer the HT shackles. Hardware suppliers in the New England area seem to carry them routinely, while they are MIA many other places. Strange...The HT shackles I've purchased have red colored pins and are stamped as HT shackles; makes finding the right one later easier.Jack

 

[Rick D]

Yes Jack, Those Shackles With Red Pins

..were mentioned in some article on anchoring. I have only seen them once, and not at a marine store. Unfortunately, I can't now remember where. I imagine they are available in a commercial riggers store. Rick D.

 

[John Nantz]

Shackles for High Test

To attach larger shackles to high-test chain try installing a "connecting link" that is sized one size larger than the chain. If you're using 5/16 high-test chain use a 3/8 connecting link. See how the link sits in the chain to ensure it sits comfortably without spreading the chain link apart. With a 3/8 connecting link one can use a larger shackle. Recommend not using shackles "Made in China" because I really question their quality control - even if the pin has red paint. West Marine carries shackles made in Japan the past few years and these should be better. There used to be a firm in Nanimo, BC, near the marina that had really quality shackles but unfortunately they are no longer there. They've been replaced by high-rise condos. Their primary customer was the logging industry.