I am selling my current boat and moving to a Hunter 42 Passage. At 6'4" I can not quite stand under the Bimini/Dodger. This model has a metal traveler arch. I would like to reduce the main by 12" and add 12" to the metal arch to increase cockpit headroom and get the boom up a little. As a cruiser I am not concerned with the loss of sail area. Also, is anybody keeping a dinghy/motor in a cradle on the foredeck and using a halyard to pick it up. I was thinking of deflating it in it cradle on passages, But other than that it would be ready to launch. The davits on the back make the back of the boat unuseable with the dinghy. Any thoughts?
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You may not care, but what about the next guy.
Matt; I can understand you concern for headroom and why you would like to modify your boat. What I would be concerned about is the resale of this vessel if/when you decide you should have purchased the Hunter 45...49 etc. This modification may reduce the value by several thousand dollar and limit the number of interested sailors too.
Matt; I can understand you concern for headroom and why you would like to modify your boat. What I would be concerned about is the resale of this vessel if/when you decide you should have purchased the Hunter 45...49 etc. This modification may reduce the value by several thousand dollar and limit the number of interested sailors too.
Having the same problem
but with a H37 Legend... I don't have the arch buuuttt.... lookin' for a solution to the problem of the boom being "head high" when standing in the cockpit...You'll hear all the stories about "sail plans"..."sail balance"...etc. No one at Hunter was ready to discuss this and told me to get in touch with the Mast manufacturer and an engineer about the arch configuration...don't have the arch yet, because of no answer from the mast manufacturer.... sorry I cann't help with more info but please keep in touch if you recieve any further info....good luck with the search.
but with a H37 Legend... I don't have the arch buuuttt.... lookin' for a solution to the problem of the boom being "head high" when standing in the cockpit...You'll hear all the stories about "sail plans"..."sail balance"...etc. No one at Hunter was ready to discuss this and told me to get in touch with the Mast manufacturer and an engineer about the arch configuration...don't have the arch yet, because of no answer from the mast manufacturer.... sorry I cann't help with more info but please keep in touch if you recieve any further info....good luck with the search.
WHAT ABOUT THE NEXT GUY????
Would you paint your house purple with green spots to satisfy some one who "might buy" in a unknown future. MY son,(6'3", 326# defensive lineman) was ready to "pay extra" for a boat with a "higher boom" and is now ready to "pay extra" to have his modified to meet his needs.....GO FOR IT MATT if that is what you want NOW!!!!!
Would you paint your house purple with green spots to satisfy some one who "might buy" in a unknown future. MY son,(6'3", 326# defensive lineman) was ready to "pay extra" for a boat with a "higher boom" and is now ready to "pay extra" to have his modified to meet his needs.....GO FOR IT MATT if that is what you want NOW!!!!!
check out a 410
I'm only 6'3", but I found the 410 to have plenty of headroom. Same hull as the 42, but it's an aft-cockpit boat rather than center cockpit. You might fit better, Matt.
I'm only 6'3", but I found the 410 to have plenty of headroom. Same hull as the 42, but it's an aft-cockpit boat rather than center cockpit. You might fit better, Matt.
Matt,
I have a 420. I'm only 6'(& shrinking), but can stand up at the wheel with at least an inch or two between me and the bimini. You may need to open your stance a little, but I don't think it will be bad enough to make the changes you are considering. As to davits, I have them (Ocean Marine, w/ A/B RIB), and they by no means make the "back porch" unuseable when the dingy is up. Even you will have no trouble getting under the dink to use the stern. I keep my OB on the dingy, even underway(as do friends w/ dingy/davits). The davits make the use of the dingy/motor much easier. Far less work than keeping it on the foredeck; (which, BTW, will limit your vision and ability to get to anchor locker, etc). IMHO, davits ARE the way to go w/ a CC boat. I've been in the Bahamas for the past few weeks and most of the CC cruisers(over 40', anyway) have davits. You will also, after a few times of ... detaching the motor, hoisting it to the stern, .. then hoisting the dingy up onto the foredeck, securing everything; .. then reversing the procedure to use the dink again. Besides; with the dingy on the foredeck; nothing else can sit up there
I have a 420. I'm only 6'(& shrinking), but can stand up at the wheel with at least an inch or two between me and the bimini. You may need to open your stance a little, but I don't think it will be bad enough to make the changes you are considering. As to davits, I have them (Ocean Marine, w/ A/B RIB), and they by no means make the "back porch" unuseable when the dingy is up. Even you will have no trouble getting under the dink to use the stern. I keep my OB on the dingy, even underway(as do friends w/ dingy/davits). The davits make the use of the dingy/motor much easier. Far less work than keeping it on the foredeck; (which, BTW, will limit your vision and ability to get to anchor locker, etc). IMHO, davits ARE the way to go w/ a CC boat. I've been in the Bahamas for the past few weeks and most of the CC cruisers(over 40', anyway) have davits. You will also, after a few times of ... detaching the motor, hoisting it to the stern, .. then hoisting the dingy up onto the foredeck, securing everything; .. then reversing the procedure to use the dink again. Besides; with the dingy on the foredeck; nothing else can sit up there
raise the main
Not familiar with the 42 sail-plan, but you may be able to raise main as I did to clear the bimini. If your main has a cringle 5-10" above the foot by using it the boom will be higher and the main sail flatter when raised. In doing this the boom no longer hits the bimini. With the boom raised you may be able to highten the arch.
Not familiar with the 42 sail-plan, but you may be able to raise main as I did to clear the bimini. If your main has a cringle 5-10" above the foot by using it the boom will be higher and the main sail flatter when raised. In doing this the boom no longer hits the bimini. With the boom raised you may be able to highten the arch.
Mat, I'm sure that customizing a boat to this extent may reduce the resale value
However, people customize their cars and their homes to satisfy their needs and requirements. So go for it. Make the boat a comfortable for you as possible...after all, it is your boat.
However, people customize their cars and their homes to satisfy their needs and requirements. So go for it. Make the boat a comfortable for you as possible...after all, it is your boat.
Matt
You may not be aware that 'raising' the main is no simple project. There are many factors that go into determining boom height. Changing any one factor affects all the others. Paul suggests, but doesn't say how, to raise the main. I suspect he is talking about tightening the toping lift. This will work just fine when the main is not hoisted but it will greatly affect the shape of the main and the sailing characteristics of the boat. By raising the entire boom, not just the outboard end, the CE is moved up and forward, sail must be re-cut, AVS is reduced and the boat becomes more 'tender' than it already is. Both Hunter and your rig manufacturer are going to be very reluctant to approve your plans. My advice would be to live with the boom configuration as is or look at another boat design.
You may not be aware that 'raising' the main is no simple project. There are many factors that go into determining boom height. Changing any one factor affects all the others. Paul suggests, but doesn't say how, to raise the main. I suspect he is talking about tightening the toping lift. This will work just fine when the main is not hoisted but it will greatly affect the shape of the main and the sailing characteristics of the boat. By raising the entire boom, not just the outboard end, the CE is moved up and forward, sail must be re-cut, AVS is reduced and the boat becomes more 'tender' than it already is. Both Hunter and your rig manufacturer are going to be very reluctant to approve your plans. My advice would be to live with the boom configuration as is or look at another boat design.
reef points
Just to be clear on my main there are three reef points. The first is a cunningham on the luff 5-10" from the sail foot. This is placed on the reefing hook. The effect is to raise the boom as the main is hoisted to the top of the mast. When the main is down a ridged boom-vang holds the boom above the bimini. By using the cunningham the sail is flattened making the boat easier to control when under sail. The sail and sail-plan were designed to work this way.
Just to be clear on my main there are three reef points. The first is a cunningham on the luff 5-10" from the sail foot. This is placed on the reefing hook. The effect is to raise the boom as the main is hoisted to the top of the mast. When the main is down a ridged boom-vang holds the boom above the bimini. By using the cunningham the sail is flattened making the boat easier to control when under sail. The sail and sail-plan were designed to work this way.
Paul
If I understand you correctly you always sail with the first reef in and you have a movable goose-neck which allows you to pull the boom above it's designed position?? Is this correct? Most boats, particularly those built today, have fixed goose-necks which do not permit the sail configuration you talk about. In the normal course of putting in a reef, the sail is lowered to the boom moving the CE down which is more advisable instead of the reverse as in your case.
If I understand you correctly you always sail with the first reef in and you have a movable goose-neck which allows you to pull the boom above it's designed position?? Is this correct? Most boats, particularly those built today, have fixed goose-necks which do not permit the sail configuration you talk about. In the normal course of putting in a reef, the sail is lowered to the boom moving the CE down which is more advisable instead of the reverse as in your case.
boom track
There is a boom track on the mast that allows the boom to be raised or lowered. Before the top of the track is reached a pin falls into a hole and holds the boom at the top position. Under normal use the boom is much lower than this and can be controlled by the downhaul and the sail by the cunningham. As I said I am not familiar with the 42, if it does not have a movable gooseneck then this will not work to raise the boom. Matt said he planned to resize the main 12" shorter and thereby raise the main-boom. Raising the boom can only happen if the gooseneck is moved up. If the gooseneck is fixed than it must be reconfigured higher on the mast. It sounds like Matt is thinking of buying this model. If he doesn't already own the boat it may be well to look for other boats that better fit his needs.
There is a boom track on the mast that allows the boom to be raised or lowered. Before the top of the track is reached a pin falls into a hole and holds the boom at the top position. Under normal use the boom is much lower than this and can be controlled by the downhaul and the sail by the cunningham. As I said I am not familiar with the 42, if it does not have a movable gooseneck then this will not work to raise the boom. Matt said he planned to resize the main 12" shorter and thereby raise the main-boom. Raising the boom can only happen if the gooseneck is moved up. If the gooseneck is fixed than it must be reconfigured higher on the mast. It sounds like Matt is thinking of buying this model. If he doesn't already own the boat it may be well to look for other boats that better fit his needs.
Hi Matt, the link below shows how I carry our dink on...
Belle-Vie. Hope it helps. As far as cockpit bimini clearance, I doubt your head sticks above the top of the arch. Our bimini is level with the top of the arch by the use of a separate SS bimini frame just forward of the arch. Then another panel connects the bimini to the dodger. Contact me if you need more specifics. Terry http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/display.tpl?folder=73317733975&fno=17
Belle-Vie. Hope it helps. As far as cockpit bimini clearance, I doubt your head sticks above the top of the arch. Our bimini is level with the top of the arch by the use of a separate SS bimini frame just forward of the arch. Then another panel connects the bimini to the dodger. Contact me if you need more specifics. Terry http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/display.tpl?folder=73317733975&fno=17
Thanks for everyone's input
The 420 seems to have more interior headroom, but the boat seems to be a cheaper version of the 42. What about it Buck? The market seems to suggest that a carful buyer could get a 420 of a 45 for about the same price as a 42. Should I look for the furling mast? Really guys/gals at 6'4" I am tiried of killing my head and stuping to see out of the dodger. Thansk for everyones ideas. I'am looking at this boat for a 10 year stretch. I have had several Hunters and think that they are alot of boat for the money. I am a fun laid back guy, not a world traveler around the cape. Matt
The 420 seems to have more interior headroom, but the boat seems to be a cheaper version of the 42. What about it Buck? The market seems to suggest that a carful buyer could get a 420 of a 45 for about the same price as a 42. Should I look for the furling mast? Really guys/gals at 6'4" I am tiried of killing my head and stuping to see out of the dodger. Thansk for everyones ideas. I'am looking at this boat for a 10 year stretch. I have had several Hunters and think that they are alot of boat for the money. I am a fun laid back guy, not a world traveler around the cape. Matt
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