I have a H22 that is 20 years old. Tow issue with which I could use sove advise: One - I compunded the getcoat and applied a good past wax. The wax has a brown tint to it and now, so does my gelcoat. Also, while the surface seems to have a shine, the appearence of the gelcoat is motly and cloudy; almost like I waxed in the chalk. The motly appearence, I am assuming, is because the surface is more pourus in some areas than others...? How can I get a clean, consistent shine? Second - the PO appears to have use some sort of acrylic (sp?) finish on a four foot section of the hull...maybe a test? How to get off? That area looks better than my wax! Maybe he came to the same conclusion as I did abouve and this was the solution? Looking motly in Maryland....Seth
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Carl
Island Girl
Check out the Island Girl Products. Our boat is over 20 years old and properly used it does wonders!
Check out the Island Girl Products. Our boat is over 20 years old and properly used it does wonders!
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Paul
Gel hell or gel heaven
In brief; Working with gel as a trade repairing yachts and like minded craft, and stumbled on your site. Never heard of your products but I am involved in colour mathching large projects. Only been doing this for one year but will be pursuing this in the years to come. We all no the stress related problems that are inherent with this aspect of sea going craft. I know that gel coat is a polyester resin based compound. Are there any thickning agents similar to the West system additives ? Is the oxidation process more prominent in certain cliamtic regions ? I look forward to your response, Paul
In brief; Working with gel as a trade repairing yachts and like minded craft, and stumbled on your site. Never heard of your products but I am involved in colour mathching large projects. Only been doing this for one year but will be pursuing this in the years to come. We all no the stress related problems that are inherent with this aspect of sea going craft. I know that gel coat is a polyester resin based compound. Are there any thickning agents similar to the West system additives ? Is the oxidation process more prominent in certain cliamtic regions ? I look forward to your response, Paul
Wash the entire boat down with ammonia
Seth: I would try washing the entire boat down with a strong solution of ammonia. This SHOULD cut thru and acrylic on the boat. It is also going to remove any wax. Then do as Carl mentions, try and Island Girl kit. Follow the directions with the cleansers sealants and waxes. If nothing else you boats gelcoat will be in about as good condition as it can be without using these acrylics on it. You can then apply any other waxes if you want. They also have a sealant for the non-skid too. If you boat has been painted then Island Girl is not a solution.
Seth: I would try washing the entire boat down with a strong solution of ammonia. This SHOULD cut thru and acrylic on the boat. It is also going to remove any wax. Then do as Carl mentions, try and Island Girl kit. Follow the directions with the cleansers sealants and waxes. If nothing else you boats gelcoat will be in about as good condition as it can be without using these acrylics on it. You can then apply any other waxes if you want. They also have a sealant for the non-skid too. If you boat has been painted then Island Girl is not a solution.
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Brent Headberg
Old Gelcoat
I am curious to know if anyone has used a product called Poly Glow on their old gelcoat. I have read a lot about Island Girl products. I need to restore my 1990 Hunter 335 with something, but haven't decided what product to use yet. Anybody used the Poly Glow product? Cap'n Brent
I am curious to know if anyone has used a product called Poly Glow on their old gelcoat. I have read a lot about Island Girl products. I need to restore my 1990 Hunter 335 with something, but haven't decided what product to use yet. Anybody used the Poly Glow product? Cap'n Brent
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Ken Palmer
Many of us have used Poly Glow
This is my second season using Poly Glow. If I were selling the stuff, I would be rich. Everybody in the yard stopped by to ask what I was using to make my 21 year old boat shine like new. This is great stuff! Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
This is my second season using Poly Glow. If I were selling the stuff, I would be rich. Everybody in the yard stopped by to ask what I was using to make my 21 year old boat shine like new. This is great stuff! Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
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Barry
Poly Glow
From my experience and from Practical Sailor Poly Glow is the best of the acrylic finished. I used Vertglas and was very pleased until it yellowed after 2-3 years. Stripping that stuff is difficult. I put Poly Glow on my 1983 h34 last year and it still looks good. No wax can reproduce the results you get on old gelcoat. Take the wax off and try this stuff. Barry
From my experience and from Practical Sailor Poly Glow is the best of the acrylic finished. I used Vertglas and was very pleased until it yellowed after 2-3 years. Stripping that stuff is difficult. I put Poly Glow on my 1983 h34 last year and it still looks good. No wax can reproduce the results you get on old gelcoat. Take the wax off and try this stuff. Barry
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Seth
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Jim Willis
Apologies and an update - still in Oakland!
This is sort of an update and an answer to the queries below. Muy wife is in HI and kept opening my e-mails so I couldn't answer them from Kinkos. 1. Imron care. I have painted engine pieces with Imron, it is just like srpaing plastic and very easy to use (pretty toxic though when using you should use a positive ventilator). Unlike gelcoat, the surface is much harder and more durable, but much thinner too. It's shine comes from "flow out" giving a wet look. Yet I have seen people buffing it out!. Unless their is a discolored layer that has to be removed (v. fine McGuires with sponge buffing pad and low speed buffer) you can indeed use our cleansers. The paint is not abosrobent so there is really no need for cleanser conditioner. IG pInk s great for removing scuff and fender markss etc. However if you have clear or S.glow you can use them too. but clean off thoroughly. We have just introduced our new MIRROR HARD Superglaze that is specifically for non-aborbent surfaces such as paint, imron, metal, NEW gelcoat etc. and now have quantities in stock in HI and CA. If you want a small sample for a specific purpose I will send!. 2. Cloudy shine gelcoat Once gelcoat gets really porous, it won't take a shine with buffing and the old method of wet sanding and compound and polish are only really necesary for gelcoat that has an outer faded layer (not oxidation - e.g. red going orange. Old acrylic and wax is best removed before doing anything. Old acrylic goes grey and/or yellow and if in the pores this may show on some boats. Get it all off with ammonia based stripper. I have heard that commercial floor acrylcic strippers are most potent. Your gelcoat will only take a shine with IG system or and acrylic. Latter can look great on darker colors but have a reputation for yellowing on white. Our system can give simillar resulsts with (in my opinion) much less work. I don't yet have a direct comparision and Pract Sailor don't seem to know we exist! But will outlast any wax finish (my boat still beads water in nearly 18 months after application and only dulled a bit on the dark areas. We have been swamped with mail order but this has led to streamlined shipping arrangements!. Svendens's in Alameda will be carrying our products and we are beginning to work of getting a propellor coating! Apologies Jim W
This is sort of an update and an answer to the queries below. Muy wife is in HI and kept opening my e-mails so I couldn't answer them from Kinkos. 1. Imron care. I have painted engine pieces with Imron, it is just like srpaing plastic and very easy to use (pretty toxic though when using you should use a positive ventilator). Unlike gelcoat, the surface is much harder and more durable, but much thinner too. It's shine comes from "flow out" giving a wet look. Yet I have seen people buffing it out!. Unless their is a discolored layer that has to be removed (v. fine McGuires with sponge buffing pad and low speed buffer) you can indeed use our cleansers. The paint is not abosrobent so there is really no need for cleanser conditioner. IG pInk s great for removing scuff and fender markss etc. However if you have clear or S.glow you can use them too. but clean off thoroughly. We have just introduced our new MIRROR HARD Superglaze that is specifically for non-aborbent surfaces such as paint, imron, metal, NEW gelcoat etc. and now have quantities in stock in HI and CA. If you want a small sample for a specific purpose I will send!. 2. Cloudy shine gelcoat Once gelcoat gets really porous, it won't take a shine with buffing and the old method of wet sanding and compound and polish are only really necesary for gelcoat that has an outer faded layer (not oxidation - e.g. red going orange. Old acrylic and wax is best removed before doing anything. Old acrylic goes grey and/or yellow and if in the pores this may show on some boats. Get it all off with ammonia based stripper. I have heard that commercial floor acrylcic strippers are most potent. Your gelcoat will only take a shine with IG system or and acrylic. Latter can look great on darker colors but have a reputation for yellowing on white. Our system can give simillar resulsts with (in my opinion) much less work. I don't yet have a direct comparision and Pract Sailor don't seem to know we exist! But will outlast any wax finish (my boat still beads water in nearly 18 months after application and only dulled a bit on the dark areas. We have been swamped with mail order but this has led to streamlined shipping arrangements!. Svendens's in Alameda will be carrying our products and we are beginning to work of getting a propellor coating! Apologies Jim W
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