I need to add a cleat for a spring line to my 1989 Hunter 30 and would like suggestions. I was thinking of mounting on the verticle lip of toe rail. Doug S/V Brenda Gail
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Wherever you put it...
Be sure that you back-plate it. A cleat that's only screwed into gelcoat can be pulled out with very little force.
Be sure that you back-plate it. A cleat that's only screwed into gelcoat can be pulled out with very little force.
What I did...
... on my 37.5 was to have a machine shop build a couple of marelon (reinforced nylon) blocks that were drilled and counterbored for the cleat and the through bolts on the hull-deck-toe-rail joint. The block was tall enough to get the cleat base above the toe-rail top to avoid chafe on the spring. I bolted the cleat to the block, took out two of the through bolts and, using longer bolts, bolted the whole assembly to the boat. It resulted in a very strong structure and does not require drilling any new holes through the deck or toe-rail. I got the cleats from Hunter so they match the ones already on the boat. Jim "Prospect"
... on my 37.5 was to have a machine shop build a couple of marelon (reinforced nylon) blocks that were drilled and counterbored for the cleat and the through bolts on the hull-deck-toe-rail joint. The block was tall enough to get the cleat base above the toe-rail top to avoid chafe on the spring. I bolted the cleat to the block, took out two of the through bolts and, using longer bolts, bolted the whole assembly to the boat. It resulted in a very strong structure and does not require drilling any new holes through the deck or toe-rail. I got the cleats from Hunter so they match the ones already on the boat. Jim "Prospect"
Folding Cleat Works Well
I needed cleats for spring lines on my 33. I bought a pair of folding cleats for the side decks mounted just about perfectly amidship. The great thing about the folding cleat is that it is out of the way when not in use. The bad thing is that it needs to be recessed in the deck. I used a large steel backing plate through bolted to the cleat base to spread the load. Rather than live with these ugly plates in the cabin or re-do the entire headliner, however, covered the plates with single piece teak boards and then through bolted the cleats on through these. A recess was routed in the side of the teak boards next to the plate so that the plate is invisible and I rounded the corners with a router before mounting. It looks great and in 2 years I have had no leaks, stress cracking or other problems. If I had it to do again, I might consider through bolting the steel plate and then routing or drilling out recesses for the bolts in the teak so the through bolts are invisible.
I needed cleats for spring lines on my 33. I bought a pair of folding cleats for the side decks mounted just about perfectly amidship. The great thing about the folding cleat is that it is out of the way when not in use. The bad thing is that it needs to be recessed in the deck. I used a large steel backing plate through bolted to the cleat base to spread the load. Rather than live with these ugly plates in the cabin or re-do the entire headliner, however, covered the plates with single piece teak boards and then through bolted the cleats on through these. A recess was routed in the side of the teak boards next to the plate so that the plate is invisible and I rounded the corners with a router before mounting. It looks great and in 2 years I have had no leaks, stress cracking or other problems. If I had it to do again, I might consider through bolting the steel plate and then routing or drilling out recesses for the bolts in the teak so the through bolts are invisible.
Adding Spring Cleat
Yes I know the problem well. I just asked the same question last month. Check archive for "Adding Spring Cleat." Some one suggested a track cleat if I had a genoa track. Which I do. I found one last weekend and installed it. It is exactly what I needed. No drilling or work involved.
Yes I know the problem well. I just asked the same question last month. Check archive for "Adding Spring Cleat." Some one suggested a track cleat if I had a genoa track. Which I do. I found one last weekend and installed it. It is exactly what I needed. No drilling or work involved.
Cleat options
Midship cleat for 1" track - $43.50 for 1-1/4" track - $47.00 or Toe Rail folding cleat - $47.50
Midship cleat for 1" track - $43.50 for 1-1/4" track - $47.00 or Toe Rail folding cleat - $47.50
Track cleat strength?
I am not comfortable with the idea of using one of the track cleats. I would think the loads on the cleat would do the track mounting holes undue stress. I have seen the folding cleats for toe rails in WM. Wonder how strong they are? Doug S/V Brenda Gail
I am not comfortable with the idea of using one of the track cleats. I would think the loads on the cleat would do the track mounting holes undue stress. I have seen the folding cleats for toe rails in WM. Wonder how strong they are? Doug S/V Brenda Gail
Toe rail cleat are fine...
The load on a spring line is minimal as compared to your fore-and-aft lines.
The load on a spring line is minimal as compared to your fore-and-aft lines.
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