I am trying to restore my Hunter 25 (1974 model). I have considerable clearance between the rudder post and the sleeve built into the hull. The sleeve I'm refering to appears to be a fiberglass pipe and is glassed to the bottom (inside the hull)and extends up through, and is glassed to the underside of the rear seat near the transom. The rudder post goes through this "pipe" and extends up through the rear seat where the tiller is attached. When assembled the rudder has considerable wobble. There are no bearings in the pipe. The whole rudder post assembly is supported by only (2) surface to surface carbon(?) discs attached to the rudder post in the cocpit above the sleeve (pipe).
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David Foster
Archives
Our '77 h27 has the same design, but does have bearing surfaces at the top and the bottom. There are descriptions of modifications to add or improve them in the archives if my memory serves. You certainly do need to correct this issue. David Lady Lilie
Our '77 h27 has the same design, but does have bearing surfaces at the top and the bottom. There are descriptions of modifications to add or improve them in the archives if my memory serves. You certainly do need to correct this issue. David Lady Lilie
Wobble-less rudder shaft
I have the same boat, Jim. I am gratified to see that your rudder sleeve is glassed to the underside of the seat-- mine is NOT, and this is the source of rainwater leaks (and the first repair job when the weather is dry and warm enough). On top of the seat there is a round fibreglass plate to 'trim off' the hole through the seat which also acts as the bearing surface for the rudderhead. There is a gap round the inside of this ring which looks like it could use some 5200 around it. This rudder shaft does not wobble at all. I believe this gap is effectively what keeps the rudder from wobbling. If yours has the same round 'trim ring' there maybe the hole has just worn too big (somehow). Consider making a new trim ring. It could be as simple as laying up glass 1/4" thick on top of a waxed piece of Formica, cutting to shape and getting cut out with a hole-saw (file to fit). Support the rudder, pull off the tiller head, install this thing with 5200, and reassemble everything. In any case I do not think this is a MAJOR problem to worry about. As long as the sleeve is soundly glassed between cockpit and hull (as mine is currently not) and not leaking, all should be well. Treat the problem you see and that should be an end of it. JC 2
I have the same boat, Jim. I am gratified to see that your rudder sleeve is glassed to the underside of the seat-- mine is NOT, and this is the source of rainwater leaks (and the first repair job when the weather is dry and warm enough). On top of the seat there is a round fibreglass plate to 'trim off' the hole through the seat which also acts as the bearing surface for the rudderhead. There is a gap round the inside of this ring which looks like it could use some 5200 around it. This rudder shaft does not wobble at all. I believe this gap is effectively what keeps the rudder from wobbling. If yours has the same round 'trim ring' there maybe the hole has just worn too big (somehow). Consider making a new trim ring. It could be as simple as laying up glass 1/4" thick on top of a waxed piece of Formica, cutting to shape and getting cut out with a hole-saw (file to fit). Support the rudder, pull off the tiller head, install this thing with 5200, and reassemble everything. In any case I do not think this is a MAJOR problem to worry about. As long as the sleeve is soundly glassed between cockpit and hull (as mine is currently not) and not leaking, all should be well. Treat the problem you see and that should be an end of it. JC 2
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John Allison
Explanation
My question is the John C.II I am having some trouble following the explanation. Would it be possible to get a sketch of what you are talking about. I agree, it is not really a problem ..... but it is annoying. John Allison s/v Whisper
My question is the John C.II I am having some trouble following the explanation. Would it be possible to get a sketch of what you are talking about. I agree, it is not really a problem ..... but it is annoying. John Allison s/v Whisper
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Jim Geiger
Thanks to all !!
John, J II, David, & Steve, Thanks for all responses. To J II, My boat has no trim ring but, as you indicated one would be easy to make - - and I will. To Steve, I like the teflon sheet method. Question: how was the teflon "bushing" that you installed held in the sleeve. On mine, the only thing which would keep it in is the rudder itself. Was your teflon held in by some means?
John, J II, David, & Steve, Thanks for all responses. To J II, My boat has no trim ring but, as you indicated one would be easy to make - - and I will. To Steve, I like the teflon sheet method. Question: how was the teflon "bushing" that you installed held in the sleeve. On mine, the only thing which would keep it in is the rudder itself. Was your teflon held in by some means?
Just used as a spacer.
Jim: You are really testing my OLD GRAY memory. As I remember the material was just held in place between the rudder tube and the actual rudder post with friction. This is something that should be very inexpensive to try. Just find someone that will sell you the material and have it cut to fit around the post. As I remember the sheet was probably about 1 foot or so wide. (hell, you are lucky that I can remember that I owned the boat <g>)
Jim: You are really testing my OLD GRAY memory. As I remember the material was just held in place between the rudder tube and the actual rudder post with friction. This is something that should be very inexpensive to try. Just find someone that will sell you the material and have it cut to fit around the post. As I remember the sheet was probably about 1 foot or so wide. (hell, you are lucky that I can remember that I owned the boat <g>)
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