I'm going to clean out my fuel tank on my 1987 Hunter 34' and add a float for a Fuel Gauge. My Buddy, that owns the boat with me, thinks we should pull the tank and I'd rather remove the fuel line and clean it out good. Any Suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike
Cleaning & adding Gauge to Fuel Tank
- Thread starter Mike Denman
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Mike...
You're not going to pull the tank out of the locker--it was put into place before deck was assembled to the hull and won't fit out the opening (I don't fit in it if I've had lunch before trying to!).
I've attached a pic of my tank top. I've installed an access port when I cleaned out the tank. At the same time I installed a fuel float gage assembly. It helps to have the tank open to clean out the drilling/cutting residue from these additions.
I built a fuel polisher and used a piece of PVC tube to fit down through the tank fill to suck out the fuel and residue before cutting open the access port. The tube, once past the fill neck lip, should end up at the inboard forward corner of the tank, which happens to be the lowest spot as well, just below the pick-up tube end. I did it that way rather than disturb the fuel pick-up or return hardware's attachements.
You're not going to pull the tank out of the locker--it was put into place before deck was assembled to the hull and won't fit out the opening (I don't fit in it if I've had lunch before trying to!).
I've attached a pic of my tank top. I've installed an access port when I cleaned out the tank. At the same time I installed a fuel float gage assembly. It helps to have the tank open to clean out the drilling/cutting residue from these additions.
I built a fuel polisher and used a piece of PVC tube to fit down through the tank fill to suck out the fuel and residue before cutting open the access port. The tube, once past the fill neck lip, should end up at the inboard forward corner of the tank, which happens to be the lowest spot as well, just below the pick-up tube end. I did it that way rather than disturb the fuel pick-up or return hardware's attachements.
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I think the tank would come out through the aft berth after removing the divider panel between the aft cabin and that infernal starboard cockpit locker with the shrinking opening 
Nice job Dan on the access opening on your tank. Scary when you get in there the first time
Nice job Dan on the access opening on your tank. Scary when you get in there the first time
Thanks, Richard...
Getting in there wasn't so scary. It was getting my body to bend back into the odd shapes needed to extract myself with leg cramps after I was done working down there. I get in three times a season to deal with the batteries going in and out and mid-season topping off. This year I'm going to spend at least another couple of hours in there installing my new autopilot gear, wiring, and two other projects involving "the basement".
I didn't think that Mike would want to undertake the carpentry needed to remove the tank through the aft cabin so I didn't mention it. I was going to pull the tank to clean it too, but decided against it because of that very issue--I didn't want to take that woodworking project on too to get it out of the boat. I still don't know if it would clear the opening of the aft cabin door--I can just barely get a cooler through it!
Getting in there wasn't so scary. It was getting my body to bend back into the odd shapes needed to extract myself with leg cramps after I was done working down there. I get in three times a season to deal with the batteries going in and out and mid-season topping off. This year I'm going to spend at least another couple of hours in there installing my new autopilot gear, wiring, and two other projects involving "the basement".
I didn't think that Mike would want to undertake the carpentry needed to remove the tank through the aft cabin so I didn't mention it. I was going to pull the tank to clean it too, but decided against it because of that very issue--I didn't want to take that woodworking project on too to get it out of the boat. I still don't know if it would clear the opening of the aft cabin door--I can just barely get a cooler through it!
Thanks Dan, It seems alot easier just leaving the tank inmtact and doing what needs being done in that cramped space. It's not so bad once you're down there. Judging by your picture you did a great job. Is the small circle below the access port where the fuel gauge float is mounted? Did you make that access port or buy it? I'll be starting this project soon, Thanks again Dan you've been a big Help, Mike
Fine looking job on the tank, Dan.
Yup.. Batteries in the pit are tough to service. I installed a remote watering system and have used it now for over a year to top off the batteries every time I am there.. Mighty fine to be able to have the fill hose at the cockpit opening and do battery service without crawling in. Practical Sailor has a short article on the system this month.
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_52557____SearchResults
Yup.. Batteries in the pit are tough to service. I installed a remote watering system and have used it now for over a year to top off the batteries every time I am there.. Mighty fine to be able to have the fill hose at the cockpit opening and do battery service without crawling in. Practical Sailor has a short article on the system this month.
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_52557____SearchResults
I fitted one of these
http://www.boatersworld.com/product/166610428msk.htm
its been fine. The deisel doesn't affect the ABS plastic or the seal.
I also fitted a weco gauge. The hatch allows you to get inside to put nuts on the inside rather than using screws.
When cleaning the tank also remove the small gauze strainer from the bottom of the dip pipe. Mine blocked up and it stopped the engine. Use an external racor filter instead.
http://www.boatersworld.com/product/166610428msk.htm
its been fine. The deisel doesn't affect the ABS plastic or the seal.
I also fitted a weco gauge. The hatch allows you to get inside to put nuts on the inside rather than using screws.
When cleaning the tank also remove the small gauze strainer from the bottom of the dip pipe. Mine blocked up and it stopped the engine. Use an external racor filter instead.
Thank you all ...
for the compliments. Yes, the small circle is the fuel gage float head. The access port is a SS one from SeaBuilt--expensive but worth the piece of mind as they are primarily made for commercial applications.
I looked at the PS article on the battery filler system but wasn't sure I wanted to go that route. I still like to get down there with a hydrometer and check each cell's condition when I do the mid-season top-off. Roofer knee pads have made the visit bearable while in there.
The locker is going to get a clean-up of many issues soon when I install the new autopilot system, rewire its components, and reattach all wiring to repositioned hangers. I stuff dock fenders and pads down there when cruising so need to make everything "snag-proof". The pic was taken before the fuel gage was wired and everything tie-wrapped up out of the way or against the fill hose.
I thought about shortening the shelf as Neil did, but decided that I needed as much space laterally as well !
Voyager: almost forgot to mention that once the access port was cut open the first thing I went after was the removal of the pick-up screen on the end of the feed tube. Surprise! No screen and about an inch gap to the bottom of the tank. I WOULD be concerned though about the Beckson port in the tank. It may not be affected by diesel, but I'd be willing to bet that a surveyor doing an insurance survey will freak out at its sight as it's not made for that application.
for the compliments. Yes, the small circle is the fuel gage float head. The access port is a SS one from SeaBuilt--expensive but worth the piece of mind as they are primarily made for commercial applications.
I looked at the PS article on the battery filler system but wasn't sure I wanted to go that route. I still like to get down there with a hydrometer and check each cell's condition when I do the mid-season top-off. Roofer knee pads have made the visit bearable while in there.
The locker is going to get a clean-up of many issues soon when I install the new autopilot system, rewire its components, and reattach all wiring to repositioned hangers. I stuff dock fenders and pads down there when cruising so need to make everything "snag-proof". The pic was taken before the fuel gage was wired and everything tie-wrapped up out of the way or against the fill hose.
I thought about shortening the shelf as Neil did, but decided that I needed as much space laterally as well
!Voyager: almost forgot to mention that once the access port was cut open the first thing I went after was the removal of the pick-up screen on the end of the feed tube. Surprise! No screen and about an inch gap to the bottom of the tank. I WOULD be concerned though about the Beckson port in the tank. It may not be affected by diesel, but I'd be willing to bet that a surveyor doing an insurance survey will freak out at its sight as it's not made for that application.
Re: Thank you all ...
When I was doing my access port I asked Beckson if any of their products were rated for use in diesel applications. The answer was "no". However Fred Ficarra used what looks like a Beckson in his boat I believe and that was done some years ago.
The ABYC spec on tank pressurization is only 3psi.
When I was doing my access port I asked Beckson if any of their products were rated for use in diesel applications. The answer was "no". However Fred Ficarra used what looks like a Beckson in his boat I believe and that was done some years ago.
The ABYC spec on tank pressurization is only 3psi.
Richard, I noticed...
in Fred's site pics that he had used what appears to be a Beckson. As my surveyor and others have addressed it, it's not an issue of pressurization in the tank that's the concern, but one of the nature of the materials themselves.
The Beckson (and like) generally use a small diameter O-ring as a lid gasket to seal between the lid and frame. The frame is then sealed to the tank with whatever one applies that will stick to the poly. The frame is probably just self-tap screwed to the tank (unless the installer is really dilligent about bolting it down with thru-bolts). The holes are tapered, which over-torqueing could break out (most likely when using bolts not screws). Lastly, the lid is torqued closed by hand tension, not tools.
The SeaBuilt unit is at least quarter inch thick stainless with 3/8" bolts and thick use-appropriate gasket material as seals on either side of the tank material, clamped down with significant pressure by the nuts and washers on top of the lid piece. Overkill to some perhaps, but designed to work on a tank's vertical walls as well as its top. Now that's piece of mind to me where fuel is concerned!
I'm sure the less expensive solution has worked for others, but safety has always been worth the price to me.
in Fred's site pics that he had used what appears to be a Beckson. As my surveyor and others have addressed it, it's not an issue of pressurization in the tank that's the concern, but one of the nature of the materials themselves.
The Beckson (and like) generally use a small diameter O-ring as a lid gasket to seal between the lid and frame. The frame is then sealed to the tank with whatever one applies that will stick to the poly. The frame is probably just self-tap screwed to the tank (unless the installer is really dilligent about bolting it down with thru-bolts). The holes are tapered, which over-torqueing could break out (most likely when using bolts not screws). Lastly, the lid is torqued closed by hand tension, not tools.
The SeaBuilt unit is at least quarter inch thick stainless with 3/8" bolts and thick use-appropriate gasket material as seals on either side of the tank material, clamped down with significant pressure by the nuts and washers on top of the lid piece. Overkill to some perhaps, but designed to work on a tank's vertical walls as well as its top. Now that's piece of mind to me where fuel is concerned!
I'm sure the less expensive solution has worked for others, but safety has always been worth the price to me.
I'm with you Dan....
When it comes to something like fuel it is comforting to know it's going to stay where it belongs. I am anxious to see what I'll find in that tank after 22 years. Thanks again Dan, Richard, Neil, Hunter Voyager, & Kloudie 1 for your advice. I truley appreciate it.
When it comes to something like fuel it is comforting to know it's going to stay where it belongs. I am anxious to see what I'll find in that tank after 22 years. Thanks again Dan, Richard, Neil, Hunter Voyager, & Kloudie 1 for your advice. I truley appreciate it.
Polish Fuel
Fair winds,
Charlie
I didn't want to potentially damage the fuel tank so I paid $150 and had the tank and fuel commercially polished. The first time I did it I noticed a lot of gunk was removed. A couple of years later I had it polished again because I was going taking a long trip to the Bahamas and very little gunk was removed. Subsequently before taking another trip and because I had purchased a lot of fuel in the Bahamas I had it polished again and I had very little dirt removed. I should mention that I added a secondary Raycore filter when I bought the boat and removed the screen from the inlet hose after I had the tank polished the first time.
Fair winds,
Charlie
Thankyou Charlie........
Adding another filter sounds like a good idea especially when sailing in the Carribean..
Adding another filter sounds like a good idea especially when sailing in the Carribean..
Dan,
How did you set up the fuel polisher. I have been thinking of installing a home built system with just filter and electric pump (maybe a timer to come on automatically when in port). The commercial systems that can be purchased seem to be priced way too high for something that I think can be done quite easially with a pump, some hose, a filter and some wire.
How did you set up the fuel polisher. I have been thinking of installing a home built system with just filter and electric pump (maybe a timer to come on automatically when in port). The commercial systems that can be purchased seem to be priced way too high for something that I think can be done quite easially with a pump, some hose, a filter and some wire.
Brad...
it's a home-made unit made from parts easily obtainable from retail/commercial sources (mine came from Tractor Supply). The pump is what contractors use to fill their dozers in the field from 55 gal. drums. A gear pump rated at 15 gal/min, it's a bit overkill if it were to be placed aboard. A standard electric auto fuel pump rated for diesel would be your best bet.
The filter is a 10 mic spin-on water separator. The rest are hardware store parts. The green hose piece in the picture is for transport only. Reinforced clear hoses are used to connect to PVC pipe pieces--one gets stuck down the fuel fill and the other into a jerry can to empty the tank.
Picture attached.
it's a home-made unit made from parts easily obtainable from retail/commercial sources (mine came from Tractor Supply). The pump is what contractors use to fill their dozers in the field from 55 gal. drums. A gear pump rated at 15 gal/min, it's a bit overkill if it were to be placed aboard. A standard electric auto fuel pump rated for diesel would be your best bet.
The filter is a 10 mic spin-on water separator. The rest are hardware store parts. The green hose piece in the picture is for transport only. Reinforced clear hoses are used to connect to PVC pipe pieces--one gets stuck down the fuel fill and the other into a jerry can to empty the tank.
Picture attached.
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Dan,
Thanks for the photo. System looks simple enough. I was looking to set up a circulating system that cycles on periodically. It looks like you use yours to completely empty the tank and refill with the filtered fuel. This would probablly be the best way to do it the first time around and then clean out the tank. Thanks again for the photo.
Thanks for the photo. System looks simple enough. I was looking to set up a circulating system that cycles on periodically. It looks like you use yours to completely empty the tank and refill with the filtered fuel. This would probablly be the best way to do it the first time around and then clean out the tank. Thanks again for the photo.
You're welcome, Brad...
and that's what this thing was created for. I've done three other boat tanks on my dock in the past year and have another one requested for next month. I pump all the fuel out into jerry cans, trying to get every last drop out if possible. The filter catches all the junk--I've seen the hose go almost black in the last gallon extracted in two out of three jobs.
After the fuel's out it the hoses get reversed and it gets pumped back in, essentially a double filtration process. I do it that way as it's cleaner than trying to pour it back into the tank through a funnel--and quicker too!
An electric diesel fuel pump pulling fuel through a Racor filter set to run each time the engine does would do a nice job of polishing the tank contents, especially if you could use a separate pickup at the lowest point in the tank.
and that's what this thing was created for. I've done three other boat tanks on my dock in the past year and have another one requested for next month. I pump all the fuel out into jerry cans, trying to get every last drop out if possible. The filter catches all the junk--I've seen the hose go almost black in the last gallon extracted in two out of three jobs.
After the fuel's out it the hoses get reversed and it gets pumped back in, essentially a double filtration process. I do it that way as it's cleaner than trying to pour it back into the tank through a funnel--and quicker too!
An electric diesel fuel pump pulling fuel through a Racor filter set to run each time the engine does would do a nice job of polishing the tank contents, especially if you could use a separate pickup at the lowest point in the tank.
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