Classic Main Reefing

[bob_pattison]

Classic Mainsail Owners:
[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]We have had a few cases over the years with classic mains getting damaged tack reefing blocks.
I had one recently and went out to see what was going on to cause this and found that the yard had led the clew reef lines too far forward which prevented the reef clew from getting down to the boom and as it got harder and harder to winch, eventually the tack block made contact with the gooseneck resulting in damage to the block

When led correctly, the reefing worked like a charm.

So I thought to send this reminder out to classic owners and suggest that they mark the proper location for the reefs to be tied as a reminder for the next season install.

Bob Pattison
Neil Pryde Sails Int.
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[DougM]

Bob:
I understand what you are saying, but fail to see how one can err in leading the clew reef points. My boom has 2 bails to which the reef lines can be secured. The aft bail is relative to the position of the first reef and the forward to the second reef. The reef lines are led out of the back of the boom over the aft side of the block on the sail then down to the bail on the boom so that the clew point is drawn back much like an outhaul. I am assuming that is the correct direction. The only problem I have encountered is with the tack end block being fully bottomed out, yet the clew end is not fully down to the boom. I have never been successful in getting the clew end secured the way I would like it simply because I was concerned about tearing the block out of the sail.

 

[Jackdaw]

Bob:
I understand what you are saying, but fail to see how one can err in leading the clew reef points. My boom has 2 bails to which the reef lines can be secured. The aft bail is relative to the position of the first reef and the forward to the second reef. The reef lines are led out of the back of the boom over the aft side of the block on the sail then down to the bail on the boom so that the clew point is drawn back much like an outhaul. I am assuming that is the correct direction. The only problem I have encountered is with the tack end block being fully bottomed out, yet the clew end is not fully down to the boom. I have never been successful in getting the clew end secured the way I would like it simply because I was concerned about tearing the block out of the sail.

I assume he is talking about single line reefing systems.

If the clew tack line was too far forward on the boom, this problem would occur as the 2:1 tack got crushed down while the clew was strung like a plucked guitar string over the boom.

 

[bob_pattison]

Doug,
On most of the boats, the bails are free to float...they can be moved fore and aft. If your bails are fixed on the boom, you still need to make sure that they are aft of the reef when reefed...as you want to have both lines (the on going up and the one coming down) pulling aft as they pull down.
It sounds to me like your aft blocks and bails are o.k.
So what I would suggest is marking your halyard, so that when you drop to say the first reef, you have a mark that locates the tack reef block about 12-15" above the tack. Stop the halyard there and then continue to bring the reefing line in.
It is important that the vang is off and the sheet eased, as the boom must be allowed to rise to meet the clew as much as the clew needs to be pulled down to the mast. Often the reef clews heights are higher than the standard full size sail clew heights...and the boom needs to come up a few inches.
The clew block should get within 3-5 inches of the boom easily.

Bob

Bob:
I understand what you are saying, but fail to see how one can err in leading the clew reef points. My boom has 2 bails to which the reef lines can be secured. The aft bail is relative to the position of the first reef and the forward to the second reef. The reef lines are led out of the back of the boom over the aft side of the block on the sail then down to the bail on the boom so that the clew point is drawn back much like an outhaul. I am assuming that is the correct direction. The only problem I have encountered is with the tack end block being fully bottomed out, yet the clew end is not fully down to the boom. I have never been successful in getting the clew end secured the way I would like it simply because I was concerned about tearing the block out of the sail.

 

[Ron20324]

Doug, on my B323 I get the same problem of the tack block bottoming out on the boom while there is still hauling on the clew to be done. The tension on the line is just alot less on that block than on the clew block. I let the topping lift and main sheet hoist the boom up. The next time i reef, I will use a line through the clew cringle and around the boom, and, of course, a "reef" knot.

 

[DougM]

Duh! I forgot about the vang tension...

I guess that's a function of old age creeping in. There is always a bit of vang tension as the wind increases, trying to flatten out the sail before deciding it's time to reef.

 

[Gunni]

If you mark your halyard to stop your sail tack reef block 12" to 18" above your gooseneck (as Bob P describes), loosen your mainsheet and vang; the whole reefing process is very quick and easy. You can set and forget the halyard, and focus on the reefing lines. This assumes that you have your clew reefing lines properly positioned so that they can bring the clew down to the boom. Learned that the hard way. I absolutely love single-line reefing and get a great set in seconds.