I thought I read somewhere that there is a "new" requirement to have a circuit breaker within 5' of the point where "shore power" enters the boat. Obviously there are a lot of older boats that do not meet this "standard" if its true. ABYC requires a membership to look at their standards. Coast Guard does not address it. Sounds like a good idea. Do you know if its true? Who's standard?
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Calder's book from 1996 says for ABYC standards, "the" main breaker to be within 10 feet of the boat's shore power inlet. For ISO standards, it's within a half meter of the inlet. Obviously, that could have changed, but geeze- a half meter being 1.6 feet would make it tough to do the ISO in most cases. A boat would have to be designed with that in mind. And I guess that's their thinking.
My 2006 boat has breakers/fuses in the lazarette, just a few feet from the shore power inlet. Must be rated higher than 30 amps, or they'd blow when the 30 circuit breaker on the nav panel blows. From there it goes on to the main breakers on the nav breaker panel. Accordingly, if the shore power inlet is within 10 feet of the nav breakers, you can skip the intermediate ones. You WILL have a breaker on the both hot AND neutral feeds.
My 2006 boat has breakers/fuses in the lazarette, just a few feet from the shore power inlet. Must be rated higher than 30 amps, or they'd blow when the 30 circuit breaker on the nav panel blows. From there it goes on to the main breakers on the nav breaker panel. Accordingly, if the shore power inlet is within 10 feet of the nav breakers, you can skip the intermediate ones. You WILL have a breaker on the both hot AND neutral feeds.
Hhmmmmmmmmm
Lets see now. For the sake of argument, call it three feet. On most boats, this means in an area exposed to the elements, plus the addition of protected from getting pooped. A water tight enclosure would be called for. Either that or move the plug to another location. Neither seems like a very good solution. If the boat is designed with this in mind, then it wouldn't be a big deal. But for me the current set up has the main breaker within approx. 10' of the shore power plug, and has worked fine for 25 years, so no need for me to change.
Lets see now. For the sake of argument, call it three feet. On most boats, this means in an area exposed to the elements, plus the addition of protected from getting pooped. A water tight enclosure would be called for. Either that or move the plug to another location. Neither seems like a very good solution. If the boat is designed with this in mind, then it wouldn't be a big deal. But for me the current set up has the main breaker within approx. 10' of the shore power plug, and has worked fine for 25 years, so no need for me to change.
circit breaker location.
Thats got to be it. My 1986 Catalina 30 does not meet that requirement. Thanks.
Interesting.. In most industries, the standards are for new construction and there is no mandatory retrofit, except in rare cases. I’d bet that invocation of this standard is being used to weasel more dollars from owners who are having work done. Many times it may be prudent to have a standard retrofitted, but mandatory? Nope.
The reason is that codes & standards are changed
and improved upon over time, just like the construction industry. It doesn't mean that the boat was wrong when it was originally made. There were no air bags in Model "T"s!
Breaking BOTH the hot & neutral wiring in the main breaker switch on your electrical panel, as Ron correctly points out, was also "not available" on older boats (mine's a 1986 and is lacking this feature), and would be a great upgrade to make for yourselves as a first step, well before even trying to install a breaker within the specified distance from the shorepower inlet.
and improved upon over time, just like the construction industry. It doesn't mean that the boat was wrong when it was originally made. There were no air bags in Model "T"s!
Breaking BOTH the hot & neutral wiring in the main breaker switch on your electrical panel, as Ron correctly points out, was also "not available" on older boats (mine's a 1986 and is lacking this feature), and would be a great upgrade to make for yourselves as a first step, well before even trying to install a breaker within the specified distance from the shorepower inlet.
I am a certified marine service tech with 40 years experience and one of those folks you might call when you have electrical issues and thought I would jump in here and leave my 2 cents. First, there is no "code" for pleasure craft of any size or shape. If that were the case most boats I work on would be condemned. The ABYC "standards" are just that. They are standards set down by a panel to be used by primarily boat builders to bring some uniformity and safety standards to boat construction. If your boat was built prior to these standards you are not required to bring the boat up to those standards. There are ways to do some things that are actually better than ABYC. In rewiring a boat it is a very good idea to use ABYC as your guide but again not required. As a matter of fact, in some instances on older boats it is impossible or prohibitively expensive to include these standards in some areas. Some surveyors will start quoting ABYC in their survey to show how much they know and to impress you. Once the insurance company sees this on a survey they insist it be done this way. Just because it is not ABYC approved does not mean it is not safe. Don't get me wrong, I am not saying you should not use the ABYC standards. I am saying it is not the "law" or by any means a legal "code" for insurance purposes or anything else. Both our current boat which is 28 years old, and our previous boat, which was 30 years old went through vigorous surveys over the time we owned them. A couple of surveyors starting quoting ABYC standards where they were not necassary until I spent the time to set them straight. Both boats were repaired to some extent by me over the time we owned them and in 99% of the repairs it was done to ABYC standards. Those other 1% were neither incorrect or dangerous but in my opinion done better than the ABYC standards. Because your boat is older does not mean it needs to have the entire electrical system removed and reinstalled by ABYC standards, By all means do this if you are so inclined. But don't believe you "have" to do this. You most assuredly want to correct any possible safety issues and do this in a way that makes the vessel and crew safe and secure. If you are not sure get professional help. For a good understanding of electrical systems get a copy of Nigel Calders book and start there. Much of it is directed to sailboat owners but the information applies to everyone. Well, just my 2 cent. Chuck
It appears there is a Federal reg which is applicable.
Sec. 183.455 Overcurrent protection: General.
(a) Each ungrounded current-carrying conductor must be protected by
a
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manually reset, tripfree circuit breaker or fuse.
(b) A manually reset, trip-free circuit breaker or fuse must be
placed at the source of power for each circuit or conductor except:
(1) If it is physically impractical to place the circuit breaker or
fuse at the source of power, it may be placed within seven inches of the
source of power for each circuit or conductor measured along the
conductor.
(2) If it is physically impractical to place the circuit breaker or
fuse at or within seven inches of the source of power, it may be placed
within 40 inches of the source of power for each circuit or conductor,
measured along the conductor, if the conductor is contained throughout
its entire distance between the source of power and the required circuit
breaker or fuse in a sheath or enclosure such as a junction box, control
box, or enclosed panel.
(c) The current rating of each circuit breaker or fuse must not
exceed:
(1) For circuits of less than 50 volts, 150% of the value of the
amperage in Table 5 for the conductor size it is protecting; and
(2) For circuits of 50 volts or more, the value of the amperage in
Table 5 for the conductor size it is protecting. If this value does not
correspond to a standard size or rated circuit breaker or fuse the next
larger size or rated circuit breaker or fuse may be used if it does not
exceed 150% of the allowed current capacity of the conductor.
(d) The voltage rating of each circuit breaker or fuse must not be
less than the nominal circuit voltage of the circuit it is protecting.
(e) This section does not apply to resistance conductors that
control circuit amperage; conductors in secondary circuits of ignition
systems; pigtails of less than seven inches of exposed length; and power
supply conductors in cranking motor circuits.
I'm uncertain if this applies to boats with diesels but the applicability section dpoes state clearly it is applicable to all recreational vessels, not just those CG certified..
I am not sure what the reasoning is about having the 10-foot fuse, considering there SHOULD BE a breaker at each end of the shore power line (meaning cord and boat wiring). I guess ABYC does not trust the shore power breakers on the dock. Chuckbear is spot on, in that ABYC is not "the law" on how boats are built, but it does mean that (supposedly) someone knowledgeable in the field has used some common sense and maybe some lab tests to deliver us a safe boat. I have not seen the ABYC maunal, but I'm sure almost all of their suggestions/requirements are for the good of the boat owner even if we do not see the common sense in it.
In that there is such a difference between the ABYC and ISO standards would suggest there is no "best way" to do things. Upgrade your systems as your conscience and pocket book allow.
In that there is such a difference between the ABYC and ISO standards would suggest there is no "best way" to do things. Upgrade your systems as your conscience and pocket book allow.
CFR
I think what Chuck was saying was no code for the boat owner to adhere to on older boats. The CFR 33 183... is for boat builders and they need to abide to those items which are federally mandated. It does not apply to boat owners. There is no law that I have been able to find that would even prevent you from using lamp cord & speaker wire for battery cable other than winning a Darwin award.....
What is interesting in reading the CFR 33 for boat builders is the sheer number of times they refer to the ABYC as the authority or source. So while the ABYC is voluntary for builders, the CFR is not, and much of the CFR guidance and ultimately rules comes from interpretation of the ABYC standards...
I have always thought of the ABYC as a minimum safety standard of which to strive for, meet or certainly go above.
CFR on boat builder/factory visits:
CFR on ventilation:
Don,
I think what Chuck was saying was no code for the boat owner to adhere to on older boats. The CFR 33 183... is for boat builders and they need to abide to those items which are federally mandated. It does not apply to boat owners. There is no law that I have been able to find that would even prevent you from using lamp cord & speaker wire for battery cable other than winning a Darwin award.....
What is interesting in reading the CFR 33 for boat builders is the sheer number of times they refer to the ABYC as the authority or source. So while the ABYC is voluntary for builders, the CFR is not, and much of the CFR guidance and ultimately rules comes from interpretation of the ABYC standards...
I have always thought of the ABYC as a minimum safety standard of which to strive for, meet or certainly go above.
CFR on boat builder/factory visits:
CFR on electrical systems:
CFR on ventilation:
While the ABYC is not the law, the law certainly does rely heavily on input from the ABYC..
Don, as in your (b), note that it says at the SOURCE. We are talking about somewhere in the middle. I have seen somewhere what you quote (but I'm too tired to look it up) was that in reference to DC only? With a circuit breaker on the dock power head and another at the AC breaker panel, I believe the wire itself is pretty well protected. Plus, there is probably a main AC power-breaker distribution panel that feeds the dock power.
In any case, I doubt the 30-amp (or whatever) shore power cord comes under the oversight of anything but UL.
In any case, I doubt the 30-amp (or whatever) shore power cord comes under the oversight of anything but UL.
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