Cherubini Hunter 36 - Jibsheet Fairlead Locations

[rardiH36]

I'm still early on the learning curve with my 1980 Cherubini Hunter 36.The boat does not have a dedicated jib sheet track/fairlead system. Snatch blocks attached to the toe rail seems to have serviced the needs of previous owners. I might as well maintain the tradition. I have a 110 Genoa on a rolling furler. I would be interested to know what toe rail location for the snatch blocks other Cherubini 36 owners use, and how the jib sheet is routed through/around the life lines and stanchions for say:-full unfurling to 110 extention -extention to the mast, -and 80-90% for those more blustery days on San Francisco bay.On my boat, none of the toe rail openings in the vicinity of where the jib sheet snatch blocks would be attached are significantly more worn than others, so I can't get much of a clue from that.Many thanks for any advise!regards,Rardi

 

[joe daly]

Jib Sheet Fair leads

Rardi, Trinity is also a 1980 - hull # 30,I use snatch blocks as per the previousowner and I belive the design. It is simple and a bit of an experiment in finding the sweet spot to flatten the sail and good leverage for the winch. I sail with a 150 genoa and find that the snatch block location is close to the stantion about 2/3 down my hull ( i think this would be the third stantion from the bow. On heavier wind days I haul in the genoa to about a 110# +/- position and move the blocks accordingly to be just aft of the 2nd stantion. At the 150 setting the sheets run outside the hull to the winch. On the 110 setting the block to winch is within the deck area.Block to sail outside. Higher winds, move block with the furling of the sail. Always keep a clean site line weather in or outside of lifeline or block to winch with no binding or rubbing of anything. Of course I sometimes set up wrong, make the adjust on leeward, tack and re-adjust my original set. It's a fun part of sailing to fine tune and trim in all conditions. Hope this helps.

 

[rardiH36]

Jib Sheets -- Experiment I Will

Dear Joe:Thanks for the comments which are useful ... I will experiment. Part of the challenge will be remembering the details of each position for the next time.The boat I bought is Hull #36. Not too far apart from yours. I spent this afternoon installing the new still-in-the-box GPS that a previous owner had purchased but never put in. Next project is installing the Raymarine auto-pilot.... also new still in the box.Do you still have the original 2QM20H engine in Trinity?regards,Rardi

 

[jlogan]

Bisect the jib with the sheet angle

If you bisect the jib with the sheet angle (move the block back and forth on the toe rail until you get this), you will be close to optimum for the amount of jib you are using at that point. This means that you move the blocks aft on the toerail for a larger jib and forward for a smaller...if you get most of the wrinkles out of the jib, you are close to correct on your sheet angle...there are more complicated explantions, but this seems to work.

 

[joe daly]

yanmar

rardi, Yes, i have the original 2QM20F(fresh water manifold-sen-dure,sea watercooling. I have changed all my fuel delivery lines & filters, impellers,etc.etc.,new shaft( which I didn't expect, started out only wanting to change the cutless bearing,But alll vibration stoped. Original 2 blade fixed sail prop.Just finished making a new instrument panel with dial guages-a plus- which came out really nice. This engine runs like a charm! Hope it continues to give me many many more hours. Is yours the 2QM20? and how is it running.  Sail boat motors fine with the 2 blade. In time and if money allows, I wouldlike to install a KIWI 3 blade feathering prop. But it is not on my priorty list. Pleasant sailing, joe

 

[rardiH36]

Yanmar 2QM20

Dear Joe:Gives me comfort that your original engine is still giving good service. I've also recently done some maintenance: New impellers, changed the fluids, checked lines and hoses, and adjusted the valve clearance. I was pleasantly surprised to see how clean the valve area looked when I had the valve cover off. Not a bit of sludge or sediment anywhere. Maybe some head work was done by a previous owner. I was asking about your engine because although mine is running fine (starts quickly, no smoke, and will attain the rated rpm's), I do have doubts that everything is alright. I have made a booking for the local Yanmar repair shop to come out to assess the engine condition.Congrats at making a successful go at the instrument panel. Mine is looking quite dingy. The previous owner purchased and mounted at the nav station a complete set of guages, but didn't install any new sensors on the engine. I'm leaving this "as is" for a while since the original Yanmar temp/oil alarms seem to be working and I don't yet know how to convert to the new guages but still retain the audible alarms. A project for the future.I am having my engine looked at because:- With time, the coolant begins to turn black. A very fine sediment precipitates out of the liquid when it is undisturbed for a while. Helpful members of this forum have suggested this condition probably indicates a small blow-by of combustion gases through the head gasket into the coolant circuit-- i.e. the gasket will need to be replaced. (Or hope not - a crack in the head could cause the same symptom). - A clicking noise which I am not sure is normal. Maybe an injector.- My SELOC Yanmar Repair manual says that one/two/three cylinder engines can vibrate significantly. Mine does at very low rpm and at another rpm band as well. Same whether in neutral or under power, so I don't think its alignment. This is probably not an issue, but I want a technician's opinion.The engine on my boat "Wildaire" is model 2QM20H (H=raw water cooling) that was converted to a anti-freeze coolant system by adding an impeller pump along the alternator belt for drawing in raw water to an external Densure heat exchanger that is mounted in the port lazerette, then to the mixing elbow for discharge. The engine's original salt water system was converted to now recirculate the coolant through the engine and back through the heat exchanger in a loop. Obviously this system has been working fine for many years, but I have found out that one drawback is that Yanmar only makes a 120-140 degree thermostat that can fit in the 2QM20H housing of the raw water designed engines. Your 2QM20F's thermostat operates in the 160-190 degree range. I have been told that salt water begins to leave deposits in the engine at over about 150 degrees, which explains the low thermostat temp rating for my engine. My engine only gets lukewarm. I have read somewhere that this temp is way below the optimum efficiency for a diesel and that over time faster cylinder wear will occur. regards,rardi

 

[Benny]

jlogan hit it on the head. As a rule of thumb

with the jib extended divide the luff in two and visualize an angle from the middle to the jib sheet and extend this angle to the rail where the block should be placed. This will work well for average wind conditions. The sheet lines are run outside the shrouds and stanchions. With a 110 you may be able to run lines inside the shrouds but why clutter the walk around deck.