I have a Hunter 25.5 with a 1GM Yanmar Diesel. It has a wet exhaust system. The output hose of the exhaust system is attached to the bottom of the hull below the waterline near the stern. I want to be able to verify proper cooling water flow but it is a real pain to climb down the swim ladder and put may hand under the water and into the exhaust port every time I start the engine. This could be even trickier when underway. How do you'all solve this problem?
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Cooling Water Flow
I would recommend that you call Mack Boring. They are the Yanmar distributor with a home office in New Jersey. Check out their web site and I am sure they will have a telephone number for you to call. I have found them very helpfull for many of my questions.
I would recommend that you call Mack Boring. They are the Yanmar distributor with a home office in New Jersey. Check out their web site and I am sure they will have a telephone number for you to call. I have found them very helpfull for many of my questions.
A Stick, a Piece of String and a Shaving Mirror
Hi, This is a piece I wrote for the Legend Owners Association in the Uk. Hope you find it amusing. Regards. “A SHAVING MIRROR, A STICK AND A PIECE OF STRING” I had a bit of a fright the other day. We were doing compass adjusting and after a couple of hours running back and forth at low engine revs I suddenly noticed that the exhaust noise had changed from the normal gurgle and splosh to a hollow putter putter. To me this indicated a dry exhaust and I was further convinced because there was steam rising from the rear end of the boat. Our 376 has the exhaust outlet underneath the aft overhang of the hull so it is not possible to see whether there is any water coming from it. Very nervously we went back to the mooring to investigate. The seawater strainer was clear and I removed the water injection bend from the engine but that was perfect. Next I took the plate from the water pump but found it impossible to get the impeller out as there was insufficient room. Lord help us when it really does fail! However, using a torch and a mirror, the impeller looked okay. So how was I to check for cooling water. No overheat alarms had gone off, but having been running at little more than idle it was reasonable to suppose the fresh water side of the cooling system was not in distress as it could still have been heating the calorifier and so might not have overheated the engine. After thinking about it I found my small shaving mirror and, using the aforementioned string, tied the mirror to the stick. Then standing on the “patio” I lowered the stick and mirror over the stern slightly to port and, presto, I was easily able to see the exhaust outlet which was gushing with the occasional flush of water. All was well. False alarm. But, unless you are carrying the right equipment, you have no other means of checking the cooling water. So you need items not normally found on a cruising yacht; namely:- a shaving mirror, a stick and a piece of string. DA PS: I also carry a small mirror from a birdcage for really tight corners.
Hi, This is a piece I wrote for the Legend Owners Association in the Uk. Hope you find it amusing. Regards. “A SHAVING MIRROR, A STICK AND A PIECE OF STRING” I had a bit of a fright the other day. We were doing compass adjusting and after a couple of hours running back and forth at low engine revs I suddenly noticed that the exhaust noise had changed from the normal gurgle and splosh to a hollow putter putter. To me this indicated a dry exhaust and I was further convinced because there was steam rising from the rear end of the boat. Our 376 has the exhaust outlet underneath the aft overhang of the hull so it is not possible to see whether there is any water coming from it. Very nervously we went back to the mooring to investigate. The seawater strainer was clear and I removed the water injection bend from the engine but that was perfect. Next I took the plate from the water pump but found it impossible to get the impeller out as there was insufficient room. Lord help us when it really does fail! However, using a torch and a mirror, the impeller looked okay. So how was I to check for cooling water. No overheat alarms had gone off, but having been running at little more than idle it was reasonable to suppose the fresh water side of the cooling system was not in distress as it could still have been heating the calorifier and so might not have overheated the engine. After thinking about it I found my small shaving mirror and, using the aforementioned string, tied the mirror to the stick. Then standing on the “patio” I lowered the stick and mirror over the stern slightly to port and, presto, I was easily able to see the exhaust outlet which was gushing with the occasional flush of water. All was well. False alarm. But, unless you are carrying the right equipment, you have no other means of checking the cooling water. So you need items not normally found on a cruising yacht; namely:- a shaving mirror, a stick and a piece of string. DA PS: I also carry a small mirror from a birdcage for really tight corners.
Not if it's UNDER the water line!
Unless you can aim a curved rigid hose or pipe into the exhaust while standing on deck and see if water comes out! They should make a transparent insert clamped in the middle of the exhaust hose so one can see the waterflow, like they put in swimming pool pumps on the back-flush side so you can see when all sediment is flushed.
Unless you can aim a curved rigid hose or pipe into the exhaust while standing on deck and see if water comes out! They should make a transparent insert clamped in the middle of the exhaust hose so one can see the waterflow, like they put in swimming pool pumps on the back-flush side so you can see when all sediment is flushed.
Mirror on a "stick"
Go to your local auto parts store, you should be able to find a mirror attached to an extendible/collapsable rod. They seem to be a standard part of mechanic's tool boxes. Jim Kolstoe, h23 Kara's Boo
Go to your local auto parts store, you should be able to find a mirror attached to an extendible/collapsable rod. They seem to be a standard part of mechanic's tool boxes. Jim Kolstoe, h23 Kara's Boo
EXHAUST
Tony, et. al.: Several months ago this subject was presented and I responded with my solution. While more detail can be found in the archives, here is a condensed version: After several years with my 1985 H31, I was frustrated (as you) with my inability to see the water exhaust, especially since I was having some overheating problems (mostly, as it turned out, because of my own stupidity!). During one haulout, I moved the exhaust from under the stern counter to the starboard hull, about 3' above the waterline. It wasn't a particularly difficult job although it did require temporarily moving the fuel tank and glassing over the old exhaust hole. The most expensive item was the new exhaust port (around $80!). I have had no regrets at all. Now, in order to check my exhaust all I have to do is glance over the side to see if water is flowing. The only downside is a need to occasionally clean the hull below the exhaust where "dry" residue builds up. If you want more info, please drop me an e-mail directly at: TIDETIM@aol.com Smooth sailing! Tim
Tony, et. al.: Several months ago this subject was presented and I responded with my solution. While more detail can be found in the archives, here is a condensed version: After several years with my 1985 H31, I was frustrated (as you) with my inability to see the water exhaust, especially since I was having some overheating problems (mostly, as it turned out, because of my own stupidity!). During one haulout, I moved the exhaust from under the stern counter to the starboard hull, about 3' above the waterline. It wasn't a particularly difficult job although it did require temporarily moving the fuel tank and glassing over the old exhaust hole. The most expensive item was the new exhaust port (around $80!). I have had no regrets at all. Now, in order to check my exhaust all I have to do is glance over the side to see if water is flowing. The only downside is a need to occasionally clean the hull below the exhaust where "dry" residue builds up. If you want more info, please drop me an e-mail directly at: TIDETIM@aol.com Smooth sailing! Tim
Temperature Sensor
Have exactly the same problem on our H310. This winter I plan to install a temperature sensor in the mixing elbow which will give an early warning of exhaust gas temperature rise due to a lack of cooling water. Regards, s/v Island Hunter
Have exactly the same problem on our H310. This winter I plan to install a temperature sensor in the mixing elbow which will give an early warning of exhaust gas temperature rise due to a lack of cooling water. Regards, s/v Island Hunter
Ralph, could you let me know the details?
Im also had a water pump failure, and by the time I noticed the warning light, the engine was frying! Could you kindly give me some brief details on which sensor to purchase and how to install/wire it when you get around to it? I would be eternally grateful... gecco@mediaone.net
Im also had a water pump failure, and by the time I noticed the warning light, the engine was frying! Could you kindly give me some brief details on which sensor to purchase and how to install/wire it when you get around to it? I would be eternally grateful... gecco@mediaone.net
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