Check those float switches

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Randy

Hello all--after each sailing trip in my 84 Catalina 27, I flip the bilge pump on to remove the last bit of water in the bilge. I had always used the manual switch on the bulkhead to turn on the pump, simply because it was more convenient. Recently, I began leaning into the bilge, and pressing the "test" button on my Rule Super Switch, simply to make sure the float switch was operational, and wasn't gummed up with bilge crud. Once, I did find it to be gummed up, and was able to clean it right away, before leaving the boat. This past Sunday, I discovered that the float switch had quit altogether. Pressing the test button wouldn't activate the pump. Removing the switch guard and lifting the float manually wouldn't activate the pump either. Tracing out the wiring and connections with a test light, I discovered that the float switch had indeed failed. Fortunately, I was able to replace the Rule switch with an exact replacement (I love it when a product is on the market longer than the typical year or two!). Now the pump and float are just fine. I re-did all wiring connections with waterproof heat shrink connectors. My point is: check your float switches frequently. A dirty switch may be rendered inoperable, and could lead to a catastrophe. A switch that malfunctions and dies could have the same effect. Flipping the pump on via the bulkhead or panel mounted switch is easier, but doesn't reveal a switch problem. Randy
 
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Dale I

Rules 'automatic' pumps...

I made a post recently regarding 'to check valve or NOT to check valve' the bilge pump....which got some mileage in discussion. Recently, before I've had a chance to eliminate my existing check valve in the bilge line I discovered some rain seepage and discovered that the valve was infact stuck again.... (this project has since become #1 on list). The 'automatic' 500gph pump would cycle for the test when prompted with the manual switch and would cut out after a couple of seconds, (just as the mfgr has designed when there is no water present).....having moved no water against the stuck valve. My fix is going to be pump replacement with a larger, non-automatic, 1100 gph Rule pump as I already have the auto-off-manual switch wired into the system....and removal of check valve. I see no alternative to the back wash of water in the line given this experience.... will fire up the wet vac for the dregs and maybe get up any other screen clogging crud at the same time. The point here being the pump behaves as though there was no water present and breifly cycled with the manual 'on' switch and did not run until the water was gone as it could not overcome the stuck valve. Make of it what you will.
 
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Don Flowers

Try the "super switch"

I have had problems with Rule's standard float switch, and went to what they call their "Super Switch". It has a much greater life span. I have been getting about a year or less of reliable service from their reg. float switch, wheras with the "super switch" they have been lasting several years without incident. Next time you have to change your float switch, go with the "super switch", I think you will be pleased with the greater life span. I sleep better at night. Don Flowers Rockport, Tx.
 
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Gord May

Pump Switches

are notoriously unreliable. Good reminder, Randy, check all "essential" gear often. Glad to hear that Dale has removed the check valve! A high quality (tho' expensive @ $80-$120)) Bilge Pump Switch is the "Ultra-Pumpswitch" c/w high water alarm sensor. Regards, Gord
 
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