I have a 2005 38 Hunter I bought new that I have had many problems with. It was a early production with red boot stripes and tan binimi. The factory wiring was incorrect and the dealer has already gone thru it. The batteries will not charge with the engine running but will with the shore power connected. The volt meter will only show 12.5 volts with the engine running and will slowly drop as items are turned on. The dealer says that I have to have the engine running at around 1500rpm to entergize the alternator to charge. This would then not be possible at dock or at anchor because the boat transmission shifts into gear. Shouldn't the alternator charge at 13.9 to 14.2 volts at an engine idle? Is the dealer correct?
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I have a 2005 38 Hunter I bought new that I have had many problems with. It was a early production with red boot stripes and tan binimi. The factory wiring was incorrect and the dealer has already gone thru it. The batteries will not charge with the engine running but will with the shore power connected. The volt meter will only show 12.5 volts with the engine running and will slowly drop as items are turned on. The dealer says that I have to have the engine running at around 1500rpm to entergize the alternator to charge. This would then not be possible at dock or at anchor because the boat transmission shifts into gear. Shouldn't the alternator charge at 13.9 to 14.2 volts at an engine idle? Is the dealer correct?
not usually
David: Most of the time the alternators are designed to not boost the charge until a slightly higher RPM is achieved. This allows the engine to get into it's HP/torque curve where there is more horsepower prior to outputting a higher charge.
David: Most of the time the alternators are designed to not boost the charge until a slightly higher RPM is achieved. This allows the engine to get into it's HP/torque curve where there is more horsepower prior to outputting a higher charge.
not usually
David: Most of the time the alternators are designed to not boost the charge until a slightly higher RPM is achieved. This allows the engine to get into it's HP/torque curve where there is more horsepower prior to outputting a higher charge.
David: Most of the time the alternators are designed to not boost the charge until a slightly higher RPM is achieved. This allows the engine to get into it's HP/torque curve where there is more horsepower prior to outputting a higher charge.
13.6 to 14.3
at a fast idle is normal. Not sure what you mean when you say you can't do this a dock or anchor because the transmission shifts into gear. Your engine controls should allow you to operate the throttle independent of the transmission. If not there is something else wrong, but every boat I have every seen has independent throttle and trans operation, there may only be one lever but it will operate both independently. Read you manual or have the dealer check it out something does not sound correct. If you are charging a above idle rpm this is normal but that is not to say the something could not be wrong. Any good automotive electrical shop will test you alternator for free and it is not a difficult job to remove/replace so you may want to have it checked out. Good Luck!
at a fast idle is normal. Not sure what you mean when you say you can't do this a dock or anchor because the transmission shifts into gear. Your engine controls should allow you to operate the throttle independent of the transmission. If not there is something else wrong, but every boat I have every seen has independent throttle and trans operation, there may only be one lever but it will operate both independently. Read you manual or have the dealer check it out something does not sound correct. If you are charging a above idle rpm this is normal but that is not to say the something could not be wrong. Any good automotive electrical shop will test you alternator for free and it is not a difficult job to remove/replace so you may want to have it checked out. Good Luck!
13.6 to 14.3
at a fast idle is normal. Not sure what you mean when you say you can't do this a dock or anchor because the transmission shifts into gear. Your engine controls should allow you to operate the throttle independent of the transmission. If not there is something else wrong, but every boat I have every seen has independent throttle and trans operation, there may only be one lever but it will operate both independently. Read you manual or have the dealer check it out something does not sound correct. If you are charging a above idle rpm this is normal but that is not to say the something could not be wrong. Any good automotive electrical shop will test you alternator for free and it is not a difficult job to remove/replace so you may want to have it checked out. Good Luck!
at a fast idle is normal. Not sure what you mean when you say you can't do this a dock or anchor because the transmission shifts into gear. Your engine controls should allow you to operate the throttle independent of the transmission. If not there is something else wrong, but every boat I have every seen has independent throttle and trans operation, there may only be one lever but it will operate both independently. Read you manual or have the dealer check it out something does not sound correct. If you are charging a above idle rpm this is normal but that is not to say the something could not be wrong. Any good automotive electrical shop will test you alternator for free and it is not a difficult job to remove/replace so you may want to have it checked out. Good Luck!
Into Gear???????
What do you mean when engine is at dock or anchor it goes into gear,that's crazy what's up with that. Nick
What do you mean when engine is at dock or anchor it goes into gear,that's crazy what's up with that. Nick
Into Gear???????
What do you mean when engine is at dock or anchor it goes into gear,that's crazy what's up with that. Nick
What do you mean when engine is at dock or anchor it goes into gear,that's crazy what's up with that. Nick
Hunter 38
David, I have the same throttle/transmission set up on my 38, hull # 126. You have idle,forward with handle forward, and reverse with handle aft. Yanmar set up the transmission this way to prevent overspeeding the engine when not under load, and to make the linkage simpler and more intuitive. With the transmission in idle my voltmeter reads 13.5 volts. Underway at rpm above 1500 the meter will read 13.5 to 14.5 depending on state of charge and system load. When charging from shore power the meter shows similarly: initially the meter will jump to 14.5 and then drift down to 13.5. You are still under the 5 year stem to stern warranty: have your alternator checked. Nick, your 36 throttle linkage is probably set up the same way. Our trip to the boat has been delayed, but we should make it this coming weekend. I will advise you on the spacing of the arch base and davit base shortly. Steve Kamp Hunter 38 Carolina
David, I have the same throttle/transmission set up on my 38, hull # 126. You have idle,forward with handle forward, and reverse with handle aft. Yanmar set up the transmission this way to prevent overspeeding the engine when not under load, and to make the linkage simpler and more intuitive. With the transmission in idle my voltmeter reads 13.5 volts. Underway at rpm above 1500 the meter will read 13.5 to 14.5 depending on state of charge and system load. When charging from shore power the meter shows similarly: initially the meter will jump to 14.5 and then drift down to 13.5. You are still under the 5 year stem to stern warranty: have your alternator checked. Nick, your 36 throttle linkage is probably set up the same way. Our trip to the boat has been delayed, but we should make it this coming weekend. I will advise you on the spacing of the arch base and davit base shortly. Steve Kamp Hunter 38 Carolina
Hunter 38
David, I have the same throttle/transmission set up on my 38, hull # 126. You have idle,forward with handle forward, and reverse with handle aft. Yanmar set up the transmission this way to prevent overspeeding the engine when not under load, and to make the linkage simpler and more intuitive. With the transmission in idle my voltmeter reads 13.5 volts. Underway at rpm above 1500 the meter will read 13.5 to 14.5 depending on state of charge and system load. When charging from shore power the meter shows similarly: initially the meter will jump to 14.5 and then drift down to 13.5. You are still under the 5 year stem to stern warranty: have your alternator checked. Nick, your 36 throttle linkage is probably set up the same way. Our trip to the boat has been delayed, but we should make it this coming weekend. I will advise you on the spacing of the arch base and davit base shortly. Steve Kamp Hunter 38 Carolina
David, I have the same throttle/transmission set up on my 38, hull # 126. You have idle,forward with handle forward, and reverse with handle aft. Yanmar set up the transmission this way to prevent overspeeding the engine when not under load, and to make the linkage simpler and more intuitive. With the transmission in idle my voltmeter reads 13.5 volts. Underway at rpm above 1500 the meter will read 13.5 to 14.5 depending on state of charge and system load. When charging from shore power the meter shows similarly: initially the meter will jump to 14.5 and then drift down to 13.5. You are still under the 5 year stem to stern warranty: have your alternator checked. Nick, your 36 throttle linkage is probably set up the same way. Our trip to the boat has been delayed, but we should make it this coming weekend. I will advise you on the spacing of the arch base and davit base shortly. Steve Kamp Hunter 38 Carolina
Foregive this response
This is really stupid and I'm sure you know this but sometimes the simplest things are overlooked. At dock (or anywhere else), if you push in and hold, the rubber "button" at the pivot point of the throttle, and then move the throttle forward, it will remain in neutral but rev up to what ever RPM you want. If this isn't working, I'm sure your warranty will rectify it. Good luck!
This is really stupid and I'm sure you know this but sometimes the simplest things are overlooked. At dock (or anywhere else), if you push in and hold, the rubber "button" at the pivot point of the throttle, and then move the throttle forward, it will remain in neutral but rev up to what ever RPM you want. If this isn't working, I'm sure your warranty will rectify it. Good luck!
Foregive this response
This is really stupid and I'm sure you know this but sometimes the simplest things are overlooked. At dock (or anywhere else), if you push in and hold, the rubber "button" at the pivot point of the throttle, and then move the throttle forward, it will remain in neutral but rev up to what ever RPM you want. If this isn't working, I'm sure your warranty will rectify it. Good luck!
This is really stupid and I'm sure you know this but sometimes the simplest things are overlooked. At dock (or anywhere else), if you push in and hold, the rubber "button" at the pivot point of the throttle, and then move the throttle forward, it will remain in neutral but rev up to what ever RPM you want. If this isn't working, I'm sure your warranty will rectify it. Good luck!
two things...first you're not putting the throttle
into netural. Second make sure there is a contact between the alternater red wire (the big wire) and the positive pole on the battery you want to charge. If the voltage doesn't increase over 12.6 volts you have a bad alternator.
into netural. Second make sure there is a contact between the alternater red wire (the big wire) and the positive pole on the battery you want to charge. If the voltage doesn't increase over 12.6 volts you have a bad alternator.
two things...first you're not putting the throttle
into netural. Second make sure there is a contact between the alternater red wire (the big wire) and the positive pole on the battery you want to charge. If the voltage doesn't increase over 12.6 volts you have a bad alternator.
into netural. Second make sure there is a contact between the alternater red wire (the big wire) and the positive pole on the battery you want to charge. If the voltage doesn't increase over 12.6 volts you have a bad alternator.
How about the switch position?
Does your switch position match the batteries you are charging? A shore power charger will charge both batteries but when you motor and want to charge the batteries from the alternator, the switch position has to be placed to the battery you want charged. If your switch position was in "1" and you were measuring battery "2", the voltage on battery "2" would not go up but battery "1" would. If your dealer had to mess with the wirring, it may be possible that he did not connect the switch correctly. Lots of possibilities. Check the voltage coming out of the alternator - if that is good, you may have a wirring issue. If it measures low, could be the alternator. Either way I would recommend that you get a voltmeter and start checking first at the alternator and working back to the batteries. Good luck.
Does your switch position match the batteries you are charging? A shore power charger will charge both batteries but when you motor and want to charge the batteries from the alternator, the switch position has to be placed to the battery you want charged. If your switch position was in "1" and you were measuring battery "2", the voltage on battery "2" would not go up but battery "1" would. If your dealer had to mess with the wirring, it may be possible that he did not connect the switch correctly. Lots of possibilities. Check the voltage coming out of the alternator - if that is good, you may have a wirring issue. If it measures low, could be the alternator. Either way I would recommend that you get a voltmeter and start checking first at the alternator and working back to the batteries. Good luck.
How about the switch position?
Does your switch position match the batteries you are charging? A shore power charger will charge both batteries but when you motor and want to charge the batteries from the alternator, the switch position has to be placed to the battery you want charged. If your switch position was in "1" and you were measuring battery "2", the voltage on battery "2" would not go up but battery "1" would. If your dealer had to mess with the wirring, it may be possible that he did not connect the switch correctly. Lots of possibilities. Check the voltage coming out of the alternator - if that is good, you may have a wirring issue. If it measures low, could be the alternator. Either way I would recommend that you get a voltmeter and start checking first at the alternator and working back to the batteries. Good luck.
Does your switch position match the batteries you are charging? A shore power charger will charge both batteries but when you motor and want to charge the batteries from the alternator, the switch position has to be placed to the battery you want charged. If your switch position was in "1" and you were measuring battery "2", the voltage on battery "2" would not go up but battery "1" would. If your dealer had to mess with the wirring, it may be possible that he did not connect the switch correctly. Lots of possibilities. Check the voltage coming out of the alternator - if that is good, you may have a wirring issue. If it measures low, could be the alternator. Either way I would recommend that you get a voltmeter and start checking first at the alternator and working back to the batteries. Good luck.
Check the belt too
A loose belt will also cause a low charge voltage. Since you said you can't charge the battery with the engine running I am assuming that you mean even when not at the dock where the transmission problem would not be an issue. The other things to check besides the alternator are the connections and the regulator. If you can charge the batteries while under way then you just have a transmission problem. If the alternator/connections/regulator check out and you just need to spin the alternator at a higher RPM than you want to charge the batteries consider getting a larger crankshaft pulley or a smaller alternator one. Alternators can handle "over speeding" pretty well so when you are at WOT you should be OK. Just keep the alternator RPM below 8000 at max engine RPM.
A loose belt will also cause a low charge voltage. Since you said you can't charge the battery with the engine running I am assuming that you mean even when not at the dock where the transmission problem would not be an issue. The other things to check besides the alternator are the connections and the regulator. If you can charge the batteries while under way then you just have a transmission problem. If the alternator/connections/regulator check out and you just need to spin the alternator at a higher RPM than you want to charge the batteries consider getting a larger crankshaft pulley or a smaller alternator one. Alternators can handle "over speeding" pretty well so when you are at WOT you should be OK. Just keep the alternator RPM below 8000 at max engine RPM.
Check the belt too
A loose belt will also cause a low charge voltage. Since you said you can't charge the battery with the engine running I am assuming that you mean even when not at the dock where the transmission problem would not be an issue. The other things to check besides the alternator are the connections and the regulator. If you can charge the batteries while under way then you just have a transmission problem. If the alternator/connections/regulator check out and you just need to spin the alternator at a higher RPM than you want to charge the batteries consider getting a larger crankshaft pulley or a smaller alternator one. Alternators can handle "over speeding" pretty well so when you are at WOT you should be OK. Just keep the alternator RPM below 8000 at max engine RPM.
A loose belt will also cause a low charge voltage. Since you said you can't charge the battery with the engine running I am assuming that you mean even when not at the dock where the transmission problem would not be an issue. The other things to check besides the alternator are the connections and the regulator. If you can charge the batteries while under way then you just have a transmission problem. If the alternator/connections/regulator check out and you just need to spin the alternator at a higher RPM than you want to charge the batteries consider getting a larger crankshaft pulley or a smaller alternator one. Alternators can handle "over speeding" pretty well so when you are at WOT you should be OK. Just keep the alternator RPM below 8000 at max engine RPM.
The dealer is either lazy or incompetent if he
said what you reported he said. Call Hunter and let them know you bought a new boat and your dealer is not providing the support that Hunter owners expect. Is there another Hunter dealer in your area? I would be looking for better help.
said what you reported he said. Call Hunter and let them know you bought a new boat and your dealer is not providing the support that Hunter owners expect. Is there another Hunter dealer in your area? I would be looking for better help.
The dealer is either lazy or incompetent if he
said what you reported he said. Call Hunter and let them know you bought a new boat and your dealer is not providing the support that Hunter owners expect. Is there another Hunter dealer in your area? I would be looking for better help.
said what you reported he said. Call Hunter and let them know you bought a new boat and your dealer is not providing the support that Hunter owners expect. Is there another Hunter dealer in your area? I would be looking for better help.
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