Everything went all right with this year's winterization EXCEPT I couldn't remove the can containing the secondary fuel filter on my Yamnar 3GM30F diesel (see photo). My instructions say to use a screwdriver to remove the can from the fluted cap, but it wouldn't budge, either by pushing/tapping straight downward, or trying to move it sideways counter-clockwise. There is very limited room for manuvering. This is the second year this has happened and I now have a three-year old filter in place. What's the secret?
Changing Yanmar Fuel Filter
- Thread starter jg26
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CCW is correct.
Never had one that tight I guess. Placing a long and heavy shanked screwdriver blade against the "flukes" should do it. A good rap with a heavy hammer is all that should be necessary. Counter-clockwise would be hitting it on the right side toward the back as you look at it.
I have never seen a wrench to fit those. But one of those rubber belt wrenchs like we use for the oil filter might work. They come in various sizes and I know that I have one that would adjust to that diameter.
Correction: see Scott B's reply. CCW is looking from the bottom up. What is confusing me and possibly you is that the ring is on the can. The threaded part is on the top, not on the can. Reading Scott's reply reminded me of that important fact.
Never had one that tight I guess. Placing a long and heavy shanked screwdriver blade against the "flukes" should do it. A good rap with a heavy hammer is all that should be necessary. Counter-clockwise would be hitting it on the right side toward the back as you look at it.
I have never seen a wrench to fit those. But one of those rubber belt wrenchs like we use for the oil filter might work. They come in various sizes and I know that I have one that would adjust to that diameter.
Correction: see Scott B's reply. CCW is looking from the bottom up. What is confusing me and possibly you is that the ring is on the can. The threaded part is on the top, not on the can. Reading Scott's reply reminded me of that important fact.
Re: CCW is correct.
I managed to get a pair of channel lock pliers on the fluted cap. Only had enough room to turn it about 5 degrees, but it worked.
I managed to get a pair of channel lock pliers on the fluted cap. Only had enough room to turn it about 5 degrees, but it worked.
The problem you have is that the old Buna/Neoprene gasketing is becoming no longer chemically compatible with the 'modern' diesel fuels .... and the old Buna/Neoprene is 'swelling'/ssoftening and essentially 'glueing' itself between the head and bowl of the filter. This is especially evident when there is any 'blend' of reclaimed cooking oil, etc. in the fuel. Back when your engine was designed Neoprene / Buna was compatible with the fuels then being blended ... not always so with todays fuels.
WHEN you so get the housing apart, first inspect to be sure that the gasket hasnt become grossly 'swollen' or become very soft. If so, change the gasket for one made with more 'compatible' rubber materials.
You have two choices when putting the housing back together (and the gasket is not swollen/softened)
1. apply a 'dry' teflon lubricant to the gasket so that the next time you open the housing, the gasket easily 'releases'. Be aware that the 'carriers' of many spray lubricants are incompatible with Buna/Neoprene and make them swell/soften even worse than the newer diesel fuels.
2. Replace the gasket with one made from EPR (ethylene propylene rubber) or EPDM (EthylenePropyleneDiamineMonomer). You may have to measure the gasket grooves of the housing and seek a replacment gasket from an internet source; forget about measuring the old gasket; instead, measure the housing.
Dont expect your Yanmar dealer to be fully 'up to speed' on this ever changing need to change the gasket material.
WHEN you so get the housing apart, first inspect to be sure that the gasket hasnt become grossly 'swollen' or become very soft. If so, change the gasket for one made with more 'compatible' rubber materials.
You have two choices when putting the housing back together (and the gasket is not swollen/softened)
1. apply a 'dry' teflon lubricant to the gasket so that the next time you open the housing, the gasket easily 'releases'. Be aware that the 'carriers' of many spray lubricants are incompatible with Buna/Neoprene and make them swell/soften even worse than the newer diesel fuels.
2. Replace the gasket with one made from EPR (ethylene propylene rubber) or EPDM (EthylenePropyleneDiamineMonomer). You may have to measure the gasket grooves of the housing and seek a replacment gasket from an internet source; forget about measuring the old gasket; instead, measure the housing.
Dont expect your Yanmar dealer to be fully 'up to speed' on this ever changing need to change the gasket material.
Re: CCW is correct.
I think I have the same secondary on my 2GM20F and it opens easily by putting a large-bladed screwdriver up to a flute and tapping the ring counter-clockwise as Ed suggests. In the best of worlds, the grooves in your flute are cruddy and you just need more force to loosen it (and clean it up prior to replacing the cartridge), or in the worst of worlds, the grooves have been crossed-threaded when the cartridge was last replaced. Either way, the filter must be opened and the cartridge has got to come out. If the flute has been cross-threaded, it may -- or may not -- be possible to get it off and use it again -- or you may have to replace the unit. Good luck with this.
I think I have the same secondary on my 2GM20F and it opens easily by putting a large-bladed screwdriver up to a flute and tapping the ring counter-clockwise as Ed suggests. In the best of worlds, the grooves in your flute are cruddy and you just need more force to loosen it (and clean it up prior to replacing the cartridge), or in the worst of worlds, the grooves have been crossed-threaded when the cartridge was last replaced. Either way, the filter must be opened and the cartridge has got to come out. If the flute has been cross-threaded, it may -- or may not -- be possible to get it off and use it again -- or you may have to replace the unit. Good luck with this.
.......... a smaller version of an oil filter wrench on your fuel filter. If it's the same as my 2GM20F, I picked up a small filter wrench at Canadian tire and have had no problem in removing the filter canister. I must admit that it's bloody tight at the end of each two year period when I replace it. I always add a new Yanmar (off the shelf) gasket each time I change the filter element.
CCW if looking up from underneath the filter. It looks like you've been hitting both sides of the ring. You should be hitting the ring to the left in your picture.
I had a problem taking mine off a 3YM30, the pipe clamp was twisted so that it was intefering with the lugs and made it difficult to loosen the housing until I noticed the problem.
I had a problem taking mine off a 3YM30, the pipe clamp was twisted so that it was intefering with the lugs and made it difficult to loosen the housing until I noticed the problem.
Re: I Think The Proper Tool
From a close examination of the photo it looks as if red hermetite may have been used as a sealant. If this stuff is in the threads it will be very difficult to turn the ring. Hitting it will probably fail but a constant force, gradually increasing will be more successful. No sealant is needed.
Apologies if I misread the telltale signs.
From a close examination of the photo it looks as if red hermetite may have been used as a sealant. If this stuff is in the threads it will be very difficult to turn the ring. Hitting it will probably fail but a constant force, gradually increasing will be more successful. No sealant is needed.
Apologies if I misread the telltale signs.
jg, you need some room to apply leaverage.
mechanically remove fuel lines and other obstructions and get a pair of channel pliers. Make sure you turn counterclockwise. I think your problem as mentioned is that red sealant. You need to get that filter out before you are stranded, after three years you are seriously overdue. As complicated as removing some parts may seem it will be a lot easier and safer to do it at the dock rather than at sea.
mechanically remove fuel lines and other obstructions and get a pair of channel pliers. Make sure you turn counterclockwise. I think your problem as mentioned is that red sealant. You need to get that filter out before you are stranded, after three years you are seriously overdue. As complicated as removing some parts may seem it will be a lot easier and safer to do it at the dock rather than at sea.
Hmmm, look at the picture a little closer. Isn't there some red
Showing in the paint cracks on the hose? There sure is a lot of 'red' throught that whole area; makes one wonder if it has been repainted (from red to silver). Whatever the case, everyone has provided good advice - make sure you are trying to turn it the correct direction!!
Showing in the paint cracks on the hose? There sure is a lot of 'red' throught that whole area; makes one wonder if it has been repainted (from red to silver). Whatever the case, everyone has provided good advice - make sure you are trying to turn it the correct direction!!
Yanmar Tool...
Yanmar has a specific tool for loosening the knurled ring on the engine filter. It is listed in their engine manual--mine's on the boat or I would have looked up the part number. Tapping on a screwdriver's blade edge with the other edge placed against one of the knurls seems to be the only way to loosen the retainer ring without this tool.
Last year I found the O-ring on the cartridge assembly seeping fuel after prolonged running. The original equipment one is quite small in cross section. Last fall when I replaced the filter cartridge I took the cartridge case to the auto parts store and fitted a new one, slightly larger in gasket material diameter. It has not leaked since.
Yanmar has a specific tool for loosening the knurled ring on the engine filter. It is listed in their engine manual--mine's on the boat or I would have looked up the part number. Tapping on a screwdriver's blade edge with the other edge placed against one of the knurls seems to be the only way to loosen the retainer ring without this tool.
Last year I found the O-ring on the cartridge assembly seeping fuel after prolonged running. The original equipment one is quite small in cross section. Last fall when I replaced the filter cartridge I took the cartridge case to the auto parts store and fitted a new one, slightly larger in gasket material diameter. It has not leaked since.
Thanks
Son called and told me he couldn't get his filter apart to change it on his Hunter 31. Did a quick search on Yanmar filter issues and got this page. Lots of good info here, I relayed the information to him ( I live in NY on Lake Champlain and he lives in Denver with his boat on Dillon Res) and hitting the filter the right direction helps a lot. We both thank you all. I have a Hunter 170 day sailor that I put around here in. Still lots of fun. Once again thanks!
yanmar fuel filter
I have glued a rubber strip to the inside of a hose clamp
which is large enough to slip over the retainer ring. I tighten the clamp, place a screwdriver against the clamp screw and tap the screwdriver to turn the retainer ring. Seems to work much better than tapping the ring directly.
I have glued a rubber strip to the inside of a hose clamp
which is large enough to slip over the retainer ring. I tighten the clamp, place a screwdriver against the clamp screw and tap the screwdriver to turn the retainer ring. Seems to work much better than tapping the ring directly.
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