I have just purchased a 1983 Hunter 27' and the toilet is leaking around the base. I am a rookie sailboat owner but a master handyman and can fix anything. My dumb question is can i take the toilet off and replace it or fix the problem with the boat in the water
Changing toilet
- Thread starter Gparker
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You can fix it by purchasing a new toilet. This can be done while the boat is in the water. Depending on the make/model of the toilet there may not be parts that can be purchased any longer.
Yes
Yes shut shut the sea water intake thru hull and give info on what model or photo if possible.
Nick
Yes shut shut the sea water intake thru hull and give info on what model or photo if possible.
Nick
Steve is right...
The question is, SHOULD you replace the toilet or repair it? That depends on the make/model/age of the toilet...'cuz all marine toilets are NOT created equal! So...whatchagot?
If it turns out that replacing the toilet is the best option, that's easy...toilets are mounted using lag bolts, so no nuts in some inaccessible location to deal with. But you do need to know that the mounting bolt pattern for any new toilet is not likely to be the same as the pattern for the old toilet, so you'll prob'ly have at least a couple of new holes to drill and a couple to fill.
And btw...it would be a good idea to close all the seacocks in the whole sanitation system BEFORE removing any equipment or disonnecting any plumbing.
And now we prob'ly oughta talk about hoses and the holding tank...???
The good news is, you can do everything you need to do while the boat is in the water.
The question is, SHOULD you replace the toilet or repair it? That depends on the make/model/age of the toilet...'cuz all marine toilets are NOT created equal! So...whatchagot?
If it turns out that replacing the toilet is the best option, that's easy...toilets are mounted using lag bolts, so no nuts in some inaccessible location to deal with. But you do need to know that the mounting bolt pattern for any new toilet is not likely to be the same as the pattern for the old toilet, so you'll prob'ly have at least a couple of new holes to drill and a couple to fill.
And btw...it would be a good idea to close all the seacocks in the whole sanitation system BEFORE removing any equipment or disonnecting any plumbing.
And now we prob'ly oughta talk about hoses and the holding tank...???
The good news is, you can do everything you need to do while the boat is in the water.
potty talking-
If yours is about the same mid 80's vintage as mine- the acrylic "yokes" that hold the components together are very brittle- 2 years ago I wanted to remove the potty in the H28.5 to change my valves located to below and outboard of the potty. Well it didn't take much of a turn and the plasticy yoke cracked just by trying to back off the screw. The mfr is long out of the business or has sold out that particular line.
I bought a new (Jabsco?)potty at WM on sale and with rebate for under $100( a good deal) but now that unit is about ~$150+. I have seen ads for a "refit" of the potty's plasticy base where you can simply migrate your exisiting ceramic bowl over to the new base with new joker valve etc- at a good savings. They have several adapters for the base of the bowl diameters. It may have been on this site or in Sail magazine's back pages. Check it out.
If yours is about the same mid 80's vintage as mine- the acrylic "yokes" that hold the components together are very brittle- 2 years ago I wanted to remove the potty in the H28.5 to change my valves located to below and outboard of the potty. Well it didn't take much of a turn and the plasticy yoke cracked just by trying to back off the screw. The mfr is long out of the business or has sold out that particular line.
I bought a new (Jabsco?)potty at WM on sale and with rebate for under $100( a good deal) but now that unit is about ~$150+. I have seen ads for a "refit" of the potty's plasticy base where you can simply migrate your exisiting ceramic bowl over to the new base with new joker valve etc- at a good savings. They have several adapters for the base of the bowl diameters. It may have been on this site or in Sail magazine's back pages. Check it out.
If its the original can you probably will not find parts for it. Keep in mind that you always have the option of replacing the head with a porta potty. there are some with a raised seat, larger holding tank and pump out connector. Their holding capacity is less but you can avoid all the plumbing headeches at a lower cost.
Before recommending anything...
I still need to know make/model/age of the toilet...'cuz although it's not impossible, it's highly unlikely that the toilet is still original. So till I know what he has, there's no way to know what he needs...any advice without knowing isn't of much use. So let's wait to see what he tells us he has before offering any more.
Btw, Benny...a self-contained system ("MSD" portapotty) on a boat that size is worth considering. 'Cuz a 5-6 gallon model actually hold MORE flushes, not less. A 5-6 gal. portapotty holds 50-60 flushes...you'd need at least a 30 gal tank--at least 50% larger than is practical on a 27' boat--to hold that many from a manual toilet.
I still need to know make/model/age of the toilet...'cuz although it's not impossible, it's highly unlikely that the toilet is still original. So till I know what he has, there's no way to know what he needs...any advice without knowing isn't of much use. So let's wait to see what he tells us he has before offering any more.
Btw, Benny...a self-contained system ("MSD" portapotty) on a boat that size is worth considering. 'Cuz a 5-6 gallon model actually hold MORE flushes, not less. A 5-6 gal. portapotty holds 50-60 flushes...you'd need at least a 30 gal tank--at least 50% larger than is practical on a 27' boat--to hold that many from a manual toilet.
Hang in there
I know it's a lot of information at once, so hang in there. I just replaced by whole pump on the Jabsco I have. It was easy (4 screws and some pipe clamps), less than $100, and works great.
No better advise I've found than from Peggie. Although I will be happy to replace hoses etc.. every so often rather than carry around a full porta-potti and dump it myself...
I know it's a lot of information at once, so hang in there. I just replaced by whole pump on the Jabsco I have. It was easy (4 screws and some pipe clamps), less than $100, and works great.
No better advise I've found than from Peggie. Although I will be happy to replace hoses etc.. every so often rather than carry around a full porta-potti and dump it myself...
No need to carry a portapotty to dump it...
Apparently you aren't familiar with the "MSD" designation. That means that the tank is fitted for pumpout and is designed to be permanently installed. They need -0- maintenance except for some rinsing out during or after pumpout...no plumbing except for the pumpout hose and vent line...clog proof...and the 5-6 gal models hold a LOT! It can be an excellent choice on boats <30'.
Apparently you aren't familiar with the "MSD" designation. That means that the tank is fitted for pumpout and is designed to be permanently installed. They need -0- maintenance except for some rinsing out during or after pumpout...no plumbing except for the pumpout hose and vent line...clog proof...and the 5-6 gal models hold a LOT! It can be an excellent choice on boats <30'.
Thetford and SeaLand have a good choices
And the sbo.com online store has 'em. sbo.com plumbing I personally like the Thetford models better than the SeaLand...not sure why 'cuz they're about equal in quality, durability and price...just do.
IMO, if you're gonna go with an "MSD" portapotty, the 5-6 gal models are a better choice than a 2-3 gal model 'cuz pumpouts cost the same and are just as much hassle whether you're pumping out out 2 gal or 5.
Otoh, if you have to go with a portable, stay with the smaller one...'cuz a full 5 gal tank weighs about 50 lbs, which is a LOT to haul off the boat and up the dock.
And the sbo.com online store has 'em. sbo.com plumbing I personally like the Thetford models better than the SeaLand...not sure why 'cuz they're about equal in quality, durability and price...just do.
IMO, if you're gonna go with an "MSD" portapotty, the 5-6 gal models are a better choice than a 2-3 gal model 'cuz pumpouts cost the same and are just as much hassle whether you're pumping out out 2 gal or 5.
Otoh, if you have to go with a portable, stay with the smaller one...'cuz a full 5 gal tank weighs about 50 lbs, which is a LOT to haul off the boat and up the dock.
Re: Thetford and SeaLand have a good choices
I have a small Sealand on my 27ft and would like to "upgrade" to the MSD model. I checked out the web site you mentioned but it does not really show the pump out connections, does it connect directly to a thru hull? Can you provide any more info thanks.
I have a small Sealand on my 27ft and would like to "upgrade" to the MSD model. I checked out the web site you mentioned but it does not really show the pump out connections, does it connect directly to a thru hull? Can you provide any more info thanks.
Check out the exploded drawing here:
I bet you could have figured out how to find that all by yourself on the mfr's website if you'd wanted to...
Go to http://www.thetford.com/HOME/PRODUCTS/PortableToilets/PortaPotti365MSD/tabid/160/Default.aspx and click on "parts".. scroll down to see the exploded drawing of all of them. Click on "manual" for installation instructions.
I bet you could have figured out how to find that all by yourself on the mfr's website if you'd wanted to...
A gasket set for the average marine toilet can be had for about 60 bucks. These should ALL be changed at some regular interval-- I would say in less than every 10 years, maybe closer to 5-6.
That said-- it is actually EASIER (though not cheaper) to replace a marine toilet than to fix one. The average Groco/Jabsco/Thetford/Wilcox/Raritan comes off the floor with four bolts and two hose clamps and the new one goes on similarly. But remember these bolts take a LOT of working back and forth and should be fitted-- regardless of what the manual tells you-- with heavy backing plates and/or very large fender washers. And-- when you get to taking it out you'll see what I mean-- use nothing other than HEX-HEAD machine screws for the mounting bolts and nylon-insert lock nuts; and put the nuts on the top. Whoever thought of using Philips-head, or, worse, slotted-head machine screws in installing a marine head ought to have his head flushed in it. (Can you say 'How do I put a screwdriver on THAT???')
That said-- it is actually EASIER (though not cheaper) to replace a marine toilet than to fix one. The average Groco/Jabsco/Thetford/Wilcox/Raritan comes off the floor with four bolts and two hose clamps and the new one goes on similarly. But remember these bolts take a LOT of working back and forth and should be fitted-- regardless of what the manual tells you-- with heavy backing plates and/or very large fender washers. And-- when you get to taking it out you'll see what I mean-- use nothing other than HEX-HEAD machine screws for the mounting bolts and nylon-insert lock nuts; and put the nuts on the top. Whoever thought of using Philips-head, or, worse, slotted-head machine screws in installing a marine head ought to have his head flushed in it. (Can you say 'How do I put a screwdriver on THAT???')
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