I have a H340 ... 1999. Always had the yard change the impeller for the raw water intake. Would like to try it myself. I have an engine manual but does anyone have a set of written procedures on changing it. Always looking for an aid where I can get it ... thanks ... Dennis
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M
Mark M Smith
Very Simple
1.Close raw water seacock 2.Remove raw water pump 3.Remove screws from back plate 4.Remove impeller (should just pull out) 5.Line up slit on new impeller with fitting on pump drive, with your fingers hold down impeller blades and install. reverse the above proccess More detail (and correct terms) with link
1.Close raw water seacock 2.Remove raw water pump 3.Remove screws from back plate 4.Remove impeller (should just pull out) 5.Line up slit on new impeller with fitting on pump drive, with your fingers hold down impeller blades and install. reverse the above proccess More detail (and correct terms) with link
K
Ken Sturgill
Dennis
First step is to close you sea cock, for the raw water intake, if not you'll flood your boat. Next you'll need to loosen to belt to the pump, then remove pump from motor. Take the pump off hoses, some water will come out but will stop if sea cock is closed properly. Remove (be careful of the brass screws, you may use penetrating oil if too tight) backing plate, scrape gasket off, the pull impeller, paying attention to direction of blades, you'll want the new blades going the same direction. Replace gasket, backing plate. This is a good time to check your hose, you may want to replace it and/or the clamps as well as the belt. Once reinstalled, check pump with engine running, SEA COCK OPEN, with flash light, looking for drips. If there are drips you may need to replace or rebuild the pump, which is normal for 300-500 hour of use, you may want to do this inspection before you remove the pump, but always check after. Make sure belt is tight, not too tight and your good to go.
First step is to close you sea cock, for the raw water intake, if not you'll flood your boat. Next you'll need to loosen to belt to the pump, then remove pump from motor. Take the pump off hoses, some water will come out but will stop if sea cock is closed properly. Remove (be careful of the brass screws, you may use penetrating oil if too tight) backing plate, scrape gasket off, the pull impeller, paying attention to direction of blades, you'll want the new blades going the same direction. Replace gasket, backing plate. This is a good time to check your hose, you may want to replace it and/or the clamps as well as the belt. Once reinstalled, check pump with engine running, SEA COCK OPEN, with flash light, looking for drips. If there are drips you may need to replace or rebuild the pump, which is normal for 300-500 hour of use, you may want to do this inspection before you remove the pump, but always check after. Make sure belt is tight, not too tight and your good to go.
D
Dennis
P
Paul Akers
But...
Let's talk basics here...be sure that you use a NEW gasket. Nobody mentioned that. They are not reusable and only cost 49 cents. I'm only going to assume this since it is your first time.
Let's talk basics here...be sure that you use a NEW gasket. Nobody mentioned that. They are not reusable and only cost 49 cents. I'm only going to assume this since it is your first time.
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Bob F
How about on my 376?
I have the 3 cylinder Yanmar in my boat. Is the impeller R&R about the same?
I have the 3 cylinder Yanmar in my boat. Is the impeller R&R about the same?
R
roger
I'd bet proceedure is same
Changing the impeller has been the same on the Yanmar 1 cyl, 2 cyl, and 3 cyl models I've had. One other thing I've done is coat the impeller in liquid dish soap before inserting it into the housing. It helps lube the rubber running against the housing before water is drawn in. If you have a reverse transom and can't see water discharging from the exhaust, there will be bubbles on the water when you star getting flow.
Changing the impeller has been the same on the Yanmar 1 cyl, 2 cyl, and 3 cyl models I've had. One other thing I've done is coat the impeller in liquid dish soap before inserting it into the housing. It helps lube the rubber running against the housing before water is drawn in. If you have a reverse transom and can't see water discharging from the exhaust, there will be bubbles on the water when you star getting flow.
D
Dennis
C
Craig
Back in the acchives from a few mos. ago
I wrote detailed instructions on changing the impeller on a yanmar 3gm if anyone is interested. I did it for the first time. Copy these and keep them on the boat. craig
I wrote detailed instructions on changing the impeller on a yanmar 3gm if anyone is interested. I did it for the first time. Copy these and keep them on the boat. craig
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Dennis
Criag ... where do I find those in the archive ?
Criag ... where do I find those in the archive ?
Criag ... where do I find those in the archive ?
D
Dennis
Criag ignore last append, found it ... excellent
Criag ignore last append, found it ... excellent
Criag ignore last append, found it ... excellent
P
Paul Akers
Same process
The process should be the same for most, if not all, engines. The primary difference will be accessibility to the pump. It is also a heck of a lot easier to remove the pump and work on a shelf. The job should be about 1/2 hour when you are used to doing it. Also, the dish detergent idea is a great idea to follow. I always use it and it is very helpful. It also gives you an idea of how quickly water passes through the cooling system.
The process should be the same for most, if not all, engines. The primary difference will be accessibility to the pump. It is also a heck of a lot easier to remove the pump and work on a shelf. The job should be about 1/2 hour when you are used to doing it. Also, the dish detergent idea is a great idea to follow. I always use it and it is very helpful. It also gives you an idea of how quickly water passes through the cooling system.
J
Jeff Bacon
To Bob F
Bob: The procedure is the same for our 376's, but I have found accessability to be problamatic. I am considering cutting a hole in the bulkhead between the head and the engine directly in front of the impeller. Then, I can simply reach through and do the change out rather than practicing to be a contortionist. I am sure I can find a suitable cover for the hole to maintain the asthetics of the head wall. Jeff
Bob: The procedure is the same for our 376's, but I have found accessability to be problamatic. I am considering cutting a hole in the bulkhead between the head and the engine directly in front of the impeller. Then, I can simply reach through and do the change out rather than practicing to be a contortionist. I am sure I can find a suitable cover for the hole to maintain the asthetics of the head wall. Jeff
P
Paul Akers
S
Stuart
Same for changing fuel filters???
Hi Craig, Got your step-by-step explanation for changing the impeller, very helpful? Do you or anyone else have same for changing fuel filters? Thx, Stuart
Hi Craig, Got your step-by-step explanation for changing the impeller, very helpful? Do you or anyone else have same for changing fuel filters? Thx, Stuart
C
Craig
not that smart
would someone with the proper knowledge to change the two filters on a yanmar 3gm or something similar post a detailed step by step along with bleeding the lines so i can copy this and keep it on my boat. thanks in advance. craig
would someone with the proper knowledge to change the two filters on a yanmar 3gm or something similar post a detailed step by step along with bleeding the lines so i can copy this and keep it on my boat. thanks in advance. craig
R
Richard Wallace
Changing Filters on Yanmar
The Yanmar 3GMF (possibly the 3GMF30 as well) has a filter on the right side of the engine (if viewed from the rear.) There is a collar with shoulders that goes over the cup and threads on to the bracket. To unscrew the collar you just back it down. On my 34 you have to use a long screwdriver and tap it with a hammer to turn the collar. Put some sort of basin below the filter as it will drip some fuel. When the collar is loose, the cup just comes off. There is an O-ring that keeps the cup from leaking. I would buy a new one at the same time you buy the filter and replace it at the same time. Lift the old filter out of the cup and replace it with the new one. Reverse the process to install. Make sure the O-ring is in place or you will have a significant leak. I had one fail and it is amazing how much diesel the little fuel pump can move. The collar should not have to be too tight. IF you do overtighten it, you can split the collar. I carry a spare collar and O-ring...experience says it is a good idea. A similar process would apply to the auxiliary filter. I have a Racor and the filter unscrews from the bracket just like an oil filter. Some Racor's have a built in priming pump. If your's has one, use it to fill the filter with fuel before going to the next step. It will save you a lot of time. Bleeding the system may take a little time but it is fairly straight forward. On the top of the injection pump (follow the three steel lines back from the injectors to find it) is a hex head with a smaller hex head bolt (bleed screw) in the center of it. Loosen the bleed screw a couple of turns. As you bleed the system you will get some diesel fuel running down the side of the injection pump so plan accordingly. Now the tricky part. On the back side of the fuel lift pump, not the injection pump, is a little handle. (The lift pump is mounted on the side of the engine to the rear of the small fuel filter. The little lever on the back (rear) is hard to see but once you find it, it can be done by feel. To pump the fuel you push down on the lever and let the spring push it back up. The pump puts out fuel on the up stroke. If you have changed the Racor type filter plus the Yanmar filter, you will be pumping for awhile. Keep in mind that there is fuel in the lines so you have to pump it out, then the air, and finally you will be back to fuel only. When the fuel coming out of the bleed screw on the injection pump no longer has any air bubbles, you are done. I try to almost tighten the screw and then push the lever on the lift pump and close the screw as the lift pump is putting out fuel so that I get all of the air out of the system. Some of the newer engines are self bleeding but the 3GMF is not so any air is bad. At this point you should be good to go so give the engine a try. If all is as it should be, the diesel will start immediately. Through out the process, keep in mind that there is going to be some diesel fuel escaping from the bleed screw and you will either need a container (if you can make a container work you are a better man than I) to catch the overflow, or a whole bunch of rags or paper towels. You just don't want the fuel to get to the bilge. BAD for the environment and it just smells awful. Good Luck
The Yanmar 3GMF (possibly the 3GMF30 as well) has a filter on the right side of the engine (if viewed from the rear.) There is a collar with shoulders that goes over the cup and threads on to the bracket. To unscrew the collar you just back it down. On my 34 you have to use a long screwdriver and tap it with a hammer to turn the collar. Put some sort of basin below the filter as it will drip some fuel. When the collar is loose, the cup just comes off. There is an O-ring that keeps the cup from leaking. I would buy a new one at the same time you buy the filter and replace it at the same time. Lift the old filter out of the cup and replace it with the new one. Reverse the process to install. Make sure the O-ring is in place or you will have a significant leak. I had one fail and it is amazing how much diesel the little fuel pump can move. The collar should not have to be too tight. IF you do overtighten it, you can split the collar. I carry a spare collar and O-ring...experience says it is a good idea. A similar process would apply to the auxiliary filter. I have a Racor and the filter unscrews from the bracket just like an oil filter. Some Racor's have a built in priming pump. If your's has one, use it to fill the filter with fuel before going to the next step. It will save you a lot of time. Bleeding the system may take a little time but it is fairly straight forward. On the top of the injection pump (follow the three steel lines back from the injectors to find it) is a hex head with a smaller hex head bolt (bleed screw) in the center of it. Loosen the bleed screw a couple of turns. As you bleed the system you will get some diesel fuel running down the side of the injection pump so plan accordingly. Now the tricky part. On the back side of the fuel lift pump, not the injection pump, is a little handle. (The lift pump is mounted on the side of the engine to the rear of the small fuel filter. The little lever on the back (rear) is hard to see but once you find it, it can be done by feel. To pump the fuel you push down on the lever and let the spring push it back up. The pump puts out fuel on the up stroke. If you have changed the Racor type filter plus the Yanmar filter, you will be pumping for awhile. Keep in mind that there is fuel in the lines so you have to pump it out, then the air, and finally you will be back to fuel only. When the fuel coming out of the bleed screw on the injection pump no longer has any air bubbles, you are done. I try to almost tighten the screw and then push the lever on the lift pump and close the screw as the lift pump is putting out fuel so that I get all of the air out of the system. Some of the newer engines are self bleeding but the 3GMF is not so any air is bad. At this point you should be good to go so give the engine a try. If all is as it should be, the diesel will start immediately. Through out the process, keep in mind that there is going to be some diesel fuel escaping from the bleed screw and you will either need a container (if you can make a container work you are a better man than I) to catch the overflow, or a whole bunch of rags or paper towels. You just don't want the fuel to get to the bilge. BAD for the environment and it just smells awful. Good Luck
S
Stuart
Thanks Richard & Craig
Between Craig's advice on the impeller and your note on filters, I've got a good idea of how to tackle these items.
Between Craig's advice on the impeller and your note on filters, I've got a good idea of how to tackle these items.
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