I have a 27hp Yanmar (3GM30F)on my Beneteau 36cc and need to change the fuel filter. I have the owner's manual for the engine, but it is not very informative on maintenance procedures and pictures. There seems to be a ring that screws off and allows you to remove the bowl with the filter. If I can't turn the ring by hand, how does one get it to turn. It has edges on the ring that seem made to put a flat-head screw driver against and gently tap with a hammer, but I don't want to do anything stupid. Anyone have any advice on the topic? I know I have to bleed the system once I do this and the owner's manual does provide good written instruction on how to do that. Thanks in advance.
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Ron Mills
That's exactly what I did with
a short handle flat balde screwdriver. The same to tighten. I could'nt get anything down in the engine compartment to turn other than the screwdriver
a short handle flat balde screwdriver. The same to tighten. I could'nt get anything down in the engine compartment to turn other than the screwdriver
Does not need to be changed very often.
Dave: There was a post on the frequency for changing the secondary filter on the engine but I do not have it handy. You may be able to find in the the archives. I think it is something like every 250-300 hrs. It never hurts to do it more often than recommended though. They actually make a wrench for this but I suppose that a screw driver will do the job. One of those rubber band filter wrenches may also work if you can get it into the area. Be VERY careful when you tighten it. The units are cast and are slightly fragile. Over tightening will mean that you need a new one to the tune of $50. There is an o-ring in there too that you will want to replace. I assume that you know the rest of the procedure on bleeding the system with the fuel pump button.
Dave: There was a post on the frequency for changing the secondary filter on the engine but I do not have it handy. You may be able to find in the the archives. I think it is something like every 250-300 hrs. It never hurts to do it more often than recommended though. They actually make a wrench for this but I suppose that a screw driver will do the job. One of those rubber band filter wrenches may also work if you can get it into the area. Be VERY careful when you tighten it. The units are cast and are slightly fragile. Over tightening will mean that you need a new one to the tune of $50. There is an o-ring in there too that you will want to replace. I assume that you know the rest of the procedure on bleeding the system with the fuel pump button.
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Gord May
For what it's worth ...
Over a couple thousands engine hours, I've never HAD to change a fuel filter. I find my filters pristine, when I DO change them every 200 hours. Pre-filtration is the "secret". I've never put fuel directly into my on-board tank from the pump. I always fill Jerry Cans, through a 'Baha' filter, then my on-board tank (again through the Baha). The Baha even catches water. I don't recall the names of several other good filters available; but Baha is not the only one. BTW: I don;t have a water separator, nor a primary filter - just the small Yanmar bowl on the engine. I would NOT recommend hitting the bowl with a hammer-screwdriver; but rather use water-pump pliers (Channnel-Locks), or the Filter-Straps previously mentioned. Regards, Gord May
Over a couple thousands engine hours, I've never HAD to change a fuel filter. I find my filters pristine, when I DO change them every 200 hours. Pre-filtration is the "secret". I've never put fuel directly into my on-board tank from the pump. I always fill Jerry Cans, through a 'Baha' filter, then my on-board tank (again through the Baha). The Baha even catches water. I don't recall the names of several other good filters available; but Baha is not the only one. BTW: I don;t have a water separator, nor a primary filter - just the small Yanmar bowl on the engine. I would NOT recommend hitting the bowl with a hammer-screwdriver; but rather use water-pump pliers (Channnel-Locks), or the Filter-Straps previously mentioned. Regards, Gord May
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Pete
changing fuel filters
Dave, I would be surprized if you boat did not have TWO fuel filters,so be sure to replace both of them (the one mounted on the engine and one mounted between the fuel tank and engine)Suggest you change them both,as the engine mounted fuel filter is the secondary and the primary is what will clog (stopping engine) first.Filter replacement is not a big job (after have done it once or twice)If you are leary of doing it your self maybe dock mate or friend could help you the first time or if needed hire the yard mechanic to show you how replace the filter and blead the system.Good Luck !
Dave, I would be surprized if you boat did not have TWO fuel filters,so be sure to replace both of them (the one mounted on the engine and one mounted between the fuel tank and engine)Suggest you change them both,as the engine mounted fuel filter is the secondary and the primary is what will clog (stopping engine) first.Filter replacement is not a big job (after have done it once or twice)If you are leary of doing it your self maybe dock mate or friend could help you the first time or if needed hire the yard mechanic to show you how replace the filter and blead the system.Good Luck !
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Bill Cooper
Changing Fuel Filters
Just yesterday I watched my diesel mechanic (who has 25 years of experience working on diesels) gently tap that ring loose with a hammer and screwdriver. Go for it, but be careful when you re-tighten it.
Just yesterday I watched my diesel mechanic (who has 25 years of experience working on diesels) gently tap that ring loose with a hammer and screwdriver. Go for it, but be careful when you re-tighten it.
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Bill Doyle - S/V Calico Dragon
I Wouldn't .....
drive the filter either off or on with a screwdriver and hammer. Too much possibility of damaging the filter housing either right away or over time. I believe you'll find that a rubber strap wrench should do the trick more safely. Bill
drive the filter either off or on with a screwdriver and hammer. Too much possibility of damaging the filter housing either right away or over time. I believe you'll find that a rubber strap wrench should do the trick more safely. Bill
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Ed Allen
Change em
I would change fuel filter regardless if they seem like it our not. fuel is the number one problem with diesels and its the cheapest insurance out there. also carry spare filters. In our area things seem to go fine till one day it gets rough. then the tank gets stired up just went you want to start the engine. I use a west marine prefilter. rates just as good as a baha and is a lot cheaper! It seems to be keeping me out of trouble.
I would change fuel filter regardless if they seem like it our not. fuel is the number one problem with diesels and its the cheapest insurance out there. also carry spare filters. In our area things seem to go fine till one day it gets rough. then the tank gets stired up just went you want to start the engine. I use a west marine prefilter. rates just as good as a baha and is a lot cheaper! It seems to be keeping me out of trouble.
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Bill O'Donovan
One more thing...
Before rescrewing the pump cannister on with a new filter, be sure to fill it to the brim with fresh desiel, which will preclude laborious bleeding to restart the engine.
Before rescrewing the pump cannister on with a new filter, be sure to fill it to the brim with fresh desiel, which will preclude laborious bleeding to restart the engine.
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Vic
Worry about that ring ...
I never change the engine fuel filter ... but ten years with a 2GM and one day that filter is leaking ... that ring untouched in 10 years cracked. I use a racor prefilter and nothing gets through that. Vic "Seven"
I never change the engine fuel filter ... but ten years with a 2GM and one day that filter is leaking ... that ring untouched in 10 years cracked. I use a racor prefilter and nothing gets through that. Vic "Seven"
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Tom s/v GAIA
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Ray
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S. Sauer
Yanmar Filter / Rarcor Filter
Lots of good info in the previous replys. Using a heavy flat bladed screw driver to loosen or tighten the small Yanmar engine filter (just before the fuel goes into the high pressure pump) is SOP. Replacing the O-ring is a god idea, but to get the best results also replace the soft copper washer on the filter's bleed screw will stop a minor but annoying leak at that point. If you have a pre-filter between the tank and the low pressure / manual fuel pump, I'd strongly recommend upgrading it to a Raycor type with clear plastic bowl and 2 micron / water separating element. You can see the amount of water or dirt settling out, though much more dirt is collecting on the paper cartridge above it. That filter and it's plastic bowl should be removed with a rubber strap wrench (Sears $10.00, or 2 sizes $20.00). One bad tank of fuel or a little water leaking thru the deck fuel fill could clog the standard pre-filter and allow water and/or dirt to get to the engine filter. Hopefully , your engine will stop before any permanent damage to the high pressure pump or injectors.
Lots of good info in the previous replys. Using a heavy flat bladed screw driver to loosen or tighten the small Yanmar engine filter (just before the fuel goes into the high pressure pump) is SOP. Replacing the O-ring is a god idea, but to get the best results also replace the soft copper washer on the filter's bleed screw will stop a minor but annoying leak at that point. If you have a pre-filter between the tank and the low pressure / manual fuel pump, I'd strongly recommend upgrading it to a Raycor type with clear plastic bowl and 2 micron / water separating element. You can see the amount of water or dirt settling out, though much more dirt is collecting on the paper cartridge above it. That filter and it's plastic bowl should be removed with a rubber strap wrench (Sears $10.00, or 2 sizes $20.00). One bad tank of fuel or a little water leaking thru the deck fuel fill could clog the standard pre-filter and allow water and/or dirt to get to the engine filter. Hopefully , your engine will stop before any permanent damage to the high pressure pump or injectors.
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Dave
Thanks to all
Happy to report I changed both the primary and secondary filters this weekend successfully. I did purchase the rubber strap wrench, but was unable to figure out how to make it work on the secondary filter. Ended up using the screwdriver/tap gently method which worked fine. The primary filter was a volvo/penta filter with glass bowl in an awkward position and it doesn't screw on or off. It is held on by a screw through the top. Very difficult to keep all the pieces together and full of fuel in an awkward position. I was also unable to use the manual pump on the fuel pump to bleed the system. Ended up turning the engine over to do it. I was told, after the fact by an very experienced mechanic, that if the manual pump wasn't working to turn the crankshaft a half of turn. Apparently the relationship between the manual lever and the camshaft can cause the manual pump not to pull fuel. Anyway, again, thanks for all the help. It was useful.
Happy to report I changed both the primary and secondary filters this weekend successfully. I did purchase the rubber strap wrench, but was unable to figure out how to make it work on the secondary filter. Ended up using the screwdriver/tap gently method which worked fine. The primary filter was a volvo/penta filter with glass bowl in an awkward position and it doesn't screw on or off. It is held on by a screw through the top. Very difficult to keep all the pieces together and full of fuel in an awkward position. I was also unable to use the manual pump on the fuel pump to bleed the system. Ended up turning the engine over to do it. I was told, after the fact by an very experienced mechanic, that if the manual pump wasn't working to turn the crankshaft a half of turn. Apparently the relationship between the manual lever and the camshaft can cause the manual pump not to pull fuel. Anyway, again, thanks for all the help. It was useful.
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