Changing Drive Shaft in a 37'

[Mickey Goodman]

I had a problem when the "key" fell out of the drive shaft which holds it to the connector plate and the transmition. I tried to turn the drive shaft by hand to see if I could re-align the shaft and the plate and couldn't turn it at all.I have the local marine engine guy from the marina come and re-install the key which he did. After re-installing the key he also put a hose clamp on the key which will prevent the key from falling out again.He told me that I should have the shaft replaced (the reason for this question)from the brass or bronze shaft with a stainless steel shaft. The boat was made in 1988 and only had, believe it or not, 50 hours on the engine. He estimated the total cost of the new shaft with installation to be about $1,000.I didn't see any play in the shaft and can't see the reason to replace it. Is there some reason that the brass or bronze shaft should be replaced? Or is stainless the metal of choice?I don't want to spend $1,000 unnecessarily. I would rather put the $1,000 towards radar for the boat. Is the engine guy just making winter work for himself at my expense.Thanks for your help.

 

[Don Evans]

Second Guess Like Hell!

For heavens sakes, why? No explaination from the mechanic? There are lots of bronze shafts still turning their props. With so little hours on the clock!Just cause its bronze. Nonsense. Start looking at radar brochures.Don

 

[Tom Senator]

No good reason to use Stainless Steel.

I (and I'm sure there are many other sailors on this site) have never had a stainless steel shaft. In my opinion they are just another way for this guy to get money out of you. I have a 20 year old boat and the bronze shaft is fine. One reason I've ever heard to go to stainless is where the bronze shaft is exceptionally long and causing "shaft-whip". Where the extra flexibility of the bronze shaft causes the shaft to whip and bow-out at certain rpms where it is not supported by either the Shaft-tube or shaft strut. Stainless is more rigid , but there are alternatives to stainless for that anyway.MAybe he's a motorboater mechanic and thinks like that due to the high speed & torque on motorboatsps a bronze shaft typically goes for only $100-200 depending on length and diameter

 

[Steve Dion]

FYI

Mickey:I got my shaft checked when I had the cutlass bearing changed last year. The owner of the shop said there was a little scoring but nothing to worry about. I asked him how much it would cost to replace it and he said about $100/ft. I believe that the shaft in a 1985 H'31 is Stainless and it is about 36" long. I am not sure but you are either getting the shaft or getting shafted! As far as changing over to S.S., I would assume that you would get less electrolysis with S.S. And it may be less flexible, but I would agree that the radar would be a better place to spend you money if there is nothing wrong with the old shaft. I would get another opinion.

 

[Paul Akers]

S/S or Monel?

Could the mechanic be referring to a monel shaft instead of S/S? Monel looks like S/S. When I see my yard manager (in a couple weeks), I'll see what he'd cost out the job for. 1K sounds steep to me.

 

[Stephen Ostrander]

I wouldn't

Unless the bronze shaft is damaged in some way, I wouldn't even consider it. Under normal conditions, bronze is perfectly acceptable for shaft material.