My boatyard has been changing my Racor 110A filter every two years and I want to know how to do it myself. There doesn't seem to be a priming pump on the filter so I am not sure how to prime it after I swap out filters. I would appreciate any specific instructions.
Changing a Racor Filter
- Thread starter Steve22060
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Hi Steve, our 4JH2-TE has a manual priming...
lever on the fuel pump. So, after I replace the filter and fill with fuel to the top I actuate the lever until fuel flows from the outlet side of the filter housing that I have loosened. After that it usually takes a few cranks on the starter before the engine fires. It has been four years since I last replaced our filters. Probably due. Terry
lever on the fuel pump. So, after I replace the filter and fill with fuel to the top I actuate the lever until fuel flows from the outlet side of the filter housing that I have loosened. After that it usually takes a few cranks on the starter before the engine fires. It has been four years since I last replaced our filters. Probably due. Terry
easy
Shut off value on the fuel tank and before you put new filter in fill the bowl with fresh diesel fuel, you will not need to prime or bleed the system. I did change the 110 filter every spring on my yanmar and never needed to prime or bleed the system,it is tricky to put back on with fuel in the bowl and may take more than one screwing it back on without spilling some fuel so have some paper toweling handy. When you start the engine make sure give plenty of throttle and not just idle to get plenty fuel to get any air out and let it run higher than idle for 10 or 15 minutes this will pusg any miner out of the system, this has worked for me never needed any bleeding on my yanmar. My newer 2007 yanmar now has self bleeding. Nick
Shut off value on the fuel tank and before you put new filter in fill the bowl with fresh diesel fuel, you will not need to prime or bleed the system. I did change the 110 filter every spring on my yanmar and never needed to prime or bleed the system,it is tricky to put back on with fuel in the bowl and may take more than one screwing it back on without spilling some fuel so have some paper toweling handy. When you start the engine make sure give plenty of throttle and not just idle to get plenty fuel to get any air out and let it run higher than idle for 10 or 15 minutes this will pusg any miner out of the system, this has worked for me never needed any bleeding on my yanmar. My newer 2007 yanmar now has self bleeding. Nick
Changing the Racor filter
This may be more than you need but here is my method: a. Run engine to warm it up. b. Close fuel flow valve at tank. c. Place Pampers or papwer towles under filter and plug any bilge limber holes with paper towel to keep diesel fuel out of bilge. d. Remove the primary filter by unscrewing the large 16 mm nut on the bottom of the 110 filter. This can be very difficult. Rinse and clean filter bowl. e. Remove and replace the sealing gasket on the under side of the filter body. You may have to dig it out with a pick and be careful that the new gasket does not twist. Check with mirror. f. Replace filter element - the O-ring goes on bottom of 110 filter element, then the element slides down shaft into filter bowl and snaps into place. g. Grease the threads at the top of the filter shaft with white lube. I do not add any fuel to the bowl - see below h. Screw bowl into filter body/holder. Tighten with wrench but not too tight. i. Pack Pampers below secondary filter on engine. j. Remove engine filter bowl and element. k. Change engine filter element and O-ring. Push element up into holder before raising the bowl. l. Install and tighten filter bowl. m. Open fuel flow valve at tank. n. Open the vent screw nut on top of 110 filter body and let air and fuel bleed. the 10mm vent nut has small O-ring. If you did not fill the bowl with fuel, lots of bubbles will come out. Suggest that you bleed some fuel and air and then replace bleed screw to let filter saturate. Then remove bleed screw and bleed until no more bubbles come out. You will need at least two pampers to catch fuel. p. Open bleed screw on top of secondary engine filter. It takes a 10mm open-end wrench. Pump the lever on the fuel pump and push hard at the bottom of the down-stoke. If you did not add fuel to the filter bowl, you will have to pump lots and lots to get some fuel out. Pump fuel pump to eject lots of bubbles and fuel. You must bleed fuel thoroughly from both primary and secondary filters. q. If required, use a 10mm socket to open the bleed screw on the injector pump. Bled some fuel and air bubbles. I need to do this on my 3GM30F engine. r. Pump out lots of bubbles and fuel using the fuel pump. Close bleed screw. s. Pump up some slight pressure in the system with the fuel pump lever. t. Start engine and run at higher RPM (2,000). I believe that it is best to thoroughly bleed the system when you change the filters. They say that you cannot run air out of the fuel system and have to bleed the whole thing, injectors and all. Good Luck
This may be more than you need but here is my method: a. Run engine to warm it up. b. Close fuel flow valve at tank. c. Place Pampers or papwer towles under filter and plug any bilge limber holes with paper towel to keep diesel fuel out of bilge. d. Remove the primary filter by unscrewing the large 16 mm nut on the bottom of the 110 filter. This can be very difficult. Rinse and clean filter bowl. e. Remove and replace the sealing gasket on the under side of the filter body. You may have to dig it out with a pick and be careful that the new gasket does not twist. Check with mirror. f. Replace filter element - the O-ring goes on bottom of 110 filter element, then the element slides down shaft into filter bowl and snaps into place. g. Grease the threads at the top of the filter shaft with white lube. I do not add any fuel to the bowl - see below h. Screw bowl into filter body/holder. Tighten with wrench but not too tight. i. Pack Pampers below secondary filter on engine. j. Remove engine filter bowl and element. k. Change engine filter element and O-ring. Push element up into holder before raising the bowl. l. Install and tighten filter bowl. m. Open fuel flow valve at tank. n. Open the vent screw nut on top of 110 filter body and let air and fuel bleed. the 10mm vent nut has small O-ring. If you did not fill the bowl with fuel, lots of bubbles will come out. Suggest that you bleed some fuel and air and then replace bleed screw to let filter saturate. Then remove bleed screw and bleed until no more bubbles come out. You will need at least two pampers to catch fuel. p. Open bleed screw on top of secondary engine filter. It takes a 10mm open-end wrench. Pump the lever on the fuel pump and push hard at the bottom of the down-stoke. If you did not add fuel to the filter bowl, you will have to pump lots and lots to get some fuel out. Pump fuel pump to eject lots of bubbles and fuel. You must bleed fuel thoroughly from both primary and secondary filters. q. If required, use a 10mm socket to open the bleed screw on the injector pump. Bled some fuel and air bubbles. I need to do this on my 3GM30F engine. r. Pump out lots of bubbles and fuel using the fuel pump. Close bleed screw. s. Pump up some slight pressure in the system with the fuel pump lever. t. Start engine and run at higher RPM (2,000). I believe that it is best to thoroughly bleed the system when you change the filters. They say that you cannot run air out of the fuel system and have to bleed the whole thing, injectors and all. Good Luck
vacuum gauge
If you install a vacuum gauge, that you can get from wm and a simple job, you'll know just when to change the filter. (you can go for 5 years without a change.) And if you have engine trouble, you can immediately tell if it is fuel supply trouble. Allan
If you install a vacuum gauge, that you can get from wm and a simple job, you'll know just when to change the filter. (you can go for 5 years without a change.) And if you have engine trouble, you can immediately tell if it is fuel supply trouble. Allan
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