Changing 110v electrics to 220v
- Thread starter CaptainMacBudgie
- Start date
The only reason I can think of it that you are in a non-USA country. Why bring twice the voltage into your boat. Run on 12 volt rather than kill yourself if something goes wrong.
110v will kill you just as dead as 240v.
I don't have an opinion but I'm curious why you'd want to do this? Also will you have shore power available in your sailing area if you convert?
I don't have an opinion but I'm curious why you'd want to do this? Also will you have shore power available in your sailing area if you convert?
220V system is more efficient but unless you intend to move the boat to Europe or South America it may not be practical. Most of the appliances and plug in fixtures here in the US come in 110-120V so the convenience of meeting the local standard becomes a most important factor even though it may not have to do with the specific merits of one system over the other. Converting to 220V here in the US may actually lower the selling price of a boat.
The improved efficiency is only applicable through distance and to the appliance. Since distance is not a factor for boat AC and small appliances are rarely 220V, I fail to see the benefit, especially given the needed installation of transformers to step up or down the voltage.
I'm bringing the boat to Europe where the voltage is 220v.
Here's some info: 110v uses heavier cable than 220v (i.e. 110v requires twice the current of 220v for the same power) so wiring is not an issue.
So far I have considered changing out the calorifier element and that most battery chargers are dual voltage anyway and sockets can be changed.
I'm looking for information. i.e.
how many ring circuit (breakers) does a Hunter Legend 45 have? Are there separate circuits for the sockets and the domestics
Other then the Air Conditioning and Fridge, is there any other system I have forgotten.
Here's some info: 110v uses heavier cable than 220v (i.e. 110v requires twice the current of 220v for the same power) so wiring is not an issue.
So far I have considered changing out the calorifier element and that most battery chargers are dual voltage anyway and sockets can be changed.
I'm looking for information. i.e.
how many ring circuit (breakers) does a Hunter Legend 45 have? Are there separate circuits for the sockets and the domestics
Other then the Air Conditioning and Fridge, is there any other system I have forgotten.
Suggestion
The way my boat is wired is with an isolation transformer.
By changing taps, I can run the boat from 220, 208, or 120.
When I go cruising, I leave my 50 A cord at home, as there is no place on Lake Ontario I can get 220 on a dock.
So, I use a single 120v 30amp feed. If course I'm limited to 1/2 my loads, but I don't care.
If you are going to Europe, just stick an isolation transformer on your boat and run it in step down mode. Nothing to change on board that way.
One small issue.
All you outlets inside will be 120, so you can't plug in 220v which you would buy locally.
If you really want 220 interior outlets, split the service before the transformer, and run a dedicated leg to a 220 sub panel
My 49 runs from 220. It is excellent, because the airco, water heater, are 220.
The way my boat is wired is with an isolation transformer.
By changing taps, I can run the boat from 220, 208, or 120.
When I go cruising, I leave my 50 A cord at home, as there is no place on Lake Ontario I can get 220 on a dock.
So, I use a single 120v 30amp feed. If course I'm limited to 1/2 my loads, but I don't care.
If you are going to Europe, just stick an isolation transformer on your boat and run it in step down mode. Nothing to change on board that way.
One small issue.
All you outlets inside will be 120, so you can't plug in 220v which you would buy locally.
If you really want 220 interior outlets, split the service before the transformer, and run a dedicated leg to a 220 sub panel
You Could install a 220vac 20 amp receiver on your boat, install a 4500 Watts transformer and connect the output to the 110VAC Receiving wiring via Breaker switch. That way you also keep the protection from the original install.
As per the outlets aboard, you can install universal outlets (I have these http://internationalconfig.com/icc6.asp?item=74900 on my boat), so you can use any type of plugs from UK, France, Germany, etc.
Most new portable appliances and chargers are multivotage 90-240 VAC.
I have not installed the transformer yet , but that is my plan in case I travel to 240 VAC places.
As per the outlets aboard, you can install universal outlets (I have these http://internationalconfig.com/icc6.asp?item=74900 on my boat), so you can use any type of plugs from UK, France, Germany, etc.
Most new portable appliances and chargers are multivotage 90-240 VAC.
I have not installed the transformer yet , but that is my plan in case I travel to 240 VAC places.
To make sure I have plenty of power when at marinas I changed the marintino plug for TV and telephone into a 240volt plug and then wired in a double power point under the salon lounge and installed a zantrex battery charger to keep the batteries topped up when the solar panels weren't working enough. I wired in a safety switch to the power point. Always have plenty of power