change oil

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john

how do you access bolt and screen on yanmar diesel when changing oil. there is no room. PLEASE HELP.
 
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Bob E.

Pump it out through the dipstick hole

I have neat little brass hand pump that has two pieces of tubing. On tube goes into the dipstick hole, all the way down to the bottom of the crankcase, and the other goes into a suitable recepticle. Many pumps later, the whole 2 liters are out. Never tried to drain it through the bottom -- I don't actually know if my engine has a drain bolt on the bottom. The pump is sold at most boat stores.
 
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Jay Hill

Is there another way?

Pump out through the dipstick hole is definitely the easy way, but now that I think of it, is there ANY other way to do it?
 
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Eddy J

Dipstick

I agree with Bob E. of Toronto; I change my oil by pumping it out through the dipstick tube also. It really doesn't take that long and isn't as messy as some people will lead you to believe, as long as you plan ahead and don't get in a hurry. The pump I bought at Boat U.S cost less than $40. Be sure to get your siphon tube all the way down to the bottom so you get as much of the old oil out as possible. Good luck.
 
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Ernie tetrault

Not getting much

I've been trying to pump the oil out through the dipstick hole, and haven't been able to get anywhere near all of it out. The dipstick still shows about a quart or so. Is this normal? I've tried a drill pump as well as the bronze hand pump mentioned in another response. Any suggestions? Thanks
 
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Bob Zolczer

Forgive me if you've already done this

Make sure the oil fill cap and oil filter are removed before pumping. Without one of the above removed, a partial vacuum can develop which it is hard to pump against.
 
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Ken Palmer

Dipstick tells all.

If your dipstick still shows oil, that means that your pump-out tube didn't go all the way to the bottom, or went too far and bent back up. I posted this hint a couple weeks ago, but will repeat it again: Add a foot or so of copper tubing to the end of the pump-out tube. Pre-cut the end of the copper tube at a 45 degree angle. Now when you insert the tube, it will go all the way to the bottom without bending back up as did your rubber/plastic tube. Happy pumping. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
 
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Gordon Myers

Hot - Hot Oil

The engine oil needs to be HOT. Running the engine in neutral at the slip in the cold Fall water, would not bring my oil tempture high enough. However, if you run your engine for 20 min. moving your boat, the engine works under a stain and the tempture will get hotter, closer to the normal tempture range. I too had gone through the drill pump, the manual pump and a can system the you manually pump to create a vacuum. I finialy brought a 110 volt pump that is attached to a can that has real sucking power. Once the oil is in the can the motor works in reverse to pump the oil out into whatever. I bought this system at West Marine. Around a $100 but saved a lot of aggravation and will be using it for a lot of years. One other thought, as I read on one of the other responses - leave the oil fill cap off while pumping. P.S. I never remove the oil filter until all the oil is removed. Also, after the oil has been pumped out, I cut up a plastic milk container and put it under the oil pan. There is a nut simular to the one in your car in the oil pan that I remove to get the last amount (about a 1/2 quart) out. Good Luck.
 
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Bob G.

There is a way

On my '78 h33 I cut a 24"x24" access panel in the head to have better access to the engine. I trimmed it out in 1 1/2" teak, added a chrome handel and latch. Now I have great access to the starboard side of the engine. It makes servicing the raw water pump and oil changes easy. Also I can get to the engine mounts for adjustment, fuel lift pump, drain cock in manifold, etc. The copper tube trick Ken mentioned for dip stick oil changes works great.
 
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Joan

Be Neat

Just put the waste end in an empty gallon milk carton; no mess at all.
 
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