Chainplates

Siamese · Mar 5, 2023

Then bend doesn't spook me too much. If it was mine, I'd take a good look at the entire chainplate system. How are things looking inside? If that's been leaking, then has it impacted the integrity of the plywood bulkhead where the chainplates are attached? That'd be my primary concern. If the bulkhead is compromised, it needs to be remedied.

And, I'd want to remove that slotted plate on the deck and clean it up. Get rid of all the sealant, and hopefully, no one put any silicone there. From the photo, it doesn't appear so. I'd use high quality butyl tape to reseal it. Check out marinehowto.com for information on that. The guy that sells the GOOD stuff goes by Mainesail, and I believe he sells his tape on Amazon now.

Other than butyl tape, I'd use 3M 4200, or more likely, the Loctite version of it that costs a lot less. Again, butyl tape would be my first choice for a seal that would last. Still, it will require repacking in the future.

danooxnard · Mar 5, 2023

Go to catalina direct and look at the replacement chain plates for the Cat 22. I have them on my 74 and they are great. No leaks and way stronger. If you use them make sure you line them up right to keep from bending your turnbuckles.
I can send pics if you need them, there is also a youtube on lining them up. Basically make each chain plate point towards the mast.

Joe · Mar 5, 2023

The important part of the chainplates is below the deck. Chainplates should attach to an interior bulkhead or hull, rather than just part of the deck.
What you want to do is look for water intrusion underneath and possible damage to the bulkhead or hull tabs that the chainplates will be bolted to,

The fact that those tangs are bent doesn't mean they're broken, but it does suggest further inspection for possible water intrusion in the deck or damage to the anchor bolts. Should you choose to replace the chainplates then make sure the deck is sealed with a flexible product like Life Caulk.

AaronD · Mar 5, 2023

Siamese said:
...I'd use high quality butyl tape to reseal it. Check out marinehowto.com for information on that. The guy that sells the GOOD stuff goes by Mainesail, and I believe he sells his tape on Amazon now.

Maine Sail's butyl is now sold right here on SailboatOwners.com (since Rodd's stroke forced closure of his own storefront).

Project_Mayhem · Mar 6, 2023

I just resealed mine this weekend without having to remove the chainplate. I agree that Bed-IT is the way to go. I found that I really like using these wheels (also available in Roloc style) to remove old sealant. The knock off ones work fine but I have not done a side by side comparison. I put a piece of tape over the metal part in the center to prevent potential scratches should it contact the boat. As others suggested, check your bulkhead for water damage so your mast doesnt fall down. Replacing bulkheads is much less daunting than it looks

...3TacksontheWater · Mar 6, 2023

kclancy said:
Hi All - I have a new-to-me 1987 and she has a few leaks, my chainplates and windows are leaking. When I took a closer look, it looks like the chainplates are also bent. Pictures attached. They both have a similar bend. These are different chainplates that are on my 1971. I'm guessing that thy should not have a bend but would like to hear from those that have this style of chainplates. I figure if I have to re-bed them, I should replace them also at the same time if necessary. Thoughts?

The chainplate design for 1986-1995 model years does not impress me at all. It's as if Catalina wanted their boats to leak. The newer style chainplate on the 1995 and newer models makes much more sense. Has anyone tried to switch to the newer design on their older 1986 - 1995 boats?

Thanks!
Kevin

Kevin:
Congratulations on your new 1987 Catalina 22. I have tried to make the switch and agree that the Mark II design upper shroud chain plate is an improvement over the New Design upper shroud chain plate. But, be aware that upgrading to the Mark II upper shroud chain plate is not a simple drop in exchange. The bulkhead screws do not line up and the tang is rotated 90 degrees to the New Design chain plate plus, you will be potting old screw holes and drilling new to fasten the Mark II chain plate. I would encourage you to just go with the installed design and replace like with like unless, you know a welder who has the skill to rebuild the Mark II upper shroud chain plate to mate up with the bulk head bolt locations. It can certainly be done but it's not as easy as I inferred from CD's website.

George

ShawnL · Mar 6, 2023

I just learned today (on Sail Life on YouTube) that diesel works well to remove the remnants of butyl tape. I never knew that -- though I haven't had to re-bed anything since I started using it.

pcharn01 · Mar 6, 2023

My ‘86 was leaking, Port bulkhead below is junk. Slight intrusion in the deck ply. I ground out the plywood and soft wood. Soaked the hole with unmodified epoxy and slow hardner. Before it set, I sucked out the epoxy and filled the hole with modified epoxy West Systems 406. Next is to cut slots to match the chain plate, replace the plywood bulkhead, and assemble with 4200. I’ll have a slight chamfer on the edge of the slot for sealant. My plates are flat, no bends.

LakeShark · Mar 7, 2023

@kclancy the bend occurs when raising the mast because someone forgot to check the turnbuckles during the lifting process (common problem). The solution is to use cloths pins to hold up the plastic covers and either watch them or use a small line tied through the toggle to keep the turnbuckle upright. The bend can easily be straightened with a mallet when re-bedding (completely removed form the boat).

When it comes to re-bedding I do not recommend Butyl tape on these at all. These center chain plates and rudder gudgeons are the only places I don't recommend it though. I have a 1986 new design and started with butyl tape after re-bedding but found that flex in the vertical plate pushes the butyl aside allowing a path for water intrusion. I wish it worked as it is a great sealant but these fittings flex quite a bit in a good blow on the water when beating into waves or if the mast tries to pump at all. After struggling to maintain a good seal for a few years I finally found that some boat life caulk which is replaced every other year or so has worked best. it allows for the flex and holds ok to the stainless. Unfortunately it too needs to be redone every couple years but its not so bad. I just remove the top plate and clean everything up to reseal. I don't pull the entire chain plate if there are no obvious signs of water intrusion. This has worked well for the past 6 years or so with the boat now.

You are correct in that it is a bad design and some day perhaps ill mark the tang and just have someone weld them but for now this works. We sail and trailer a lot so our mast is constantly going up and down and I often push the boat in a race or larger winds so that may too be a factor in the chain plates movement on my end but I thought i would pass along what has worked for me.

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