Chainplates/bulkhead

Feb 3, 2017
48
Hunter 25.5 Lake Thurmond, South Carolina
Hi all. Introductions are in order, I suppose, so here goes. Retired nurse here and sailor wannabe. Woodworking and DIYing has been my hobby/passtime most of my life. Just purchased a '85 Hunter 25.5 project. The owner passed about two years ago and it has remained in the lake pretty much untouched since then. I did not notice during my own survey the bulkhead area around the starboard chainplate is mushey. I did notice there had been leaks on both sides over the years but the port side is solid as a rock, It has been leaking for awhile and I do not trust it. I will need to replace the bulkhead and do not really know where to get the material. Somewhere here in the southeastern USA would be great. Any feedback would be appreciated. Glad to be a part of the Hunter Owner community.
 
Nov 6, 2006
10,107
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Welcome to the forum, Carl. lots of good info here .. The replace bulkhead topic has been discussed a lot over the years a search will bring up some good info: https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/serious-repair-question.181747/
Sometimes a "PM" (Private Message) to a poster will get a lot of more detail.. Most folks have used a good grade of marine ply and some have veneered it to match ..
Again, Welcome and good luck with the fix..
 
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Feb 3, 2017
48
Hunter 25.5 Lake Thurmond, South Carolina
Thank you kloudie1. Am getting my cup o joe and about to check it out now.
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,387
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Welcome Carl. The forum is a fun place to learn and share boat wisdom. Kloudie has set you on the right path. The search feature of the forum is one of the strongest features.
Second maybe to the pictures that are posted of troubles and solutions.
Looking forwards to seeing your images sailing.
 
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Feb 3, 2017
48
Hunter 25.5 Lake Thurmond, South Carolina
Thank you. I doubt I have much wisdom to share other than being an old salt, so to speak, but I appreciate all the help I can get. I am glad to have joined the forum. Most of my images will be about repairs, maybe later in the spring I may be ready to sail. As I learn something new to me, I will gladly share it, who knows maybe save some fellow sailer/owner a few hours on the web.
 
Feb 3, 2017
48
Hunter 25.5 Lake Thurmond, South Carolina
Okay. I have read the dutchman's repair blog and would not repair my own boat this way. I am most likely going to get up the materials, then remove the old bulkhead, use it as a template and refasten everything. I absolutely hate that 'shelf paper' Hunter put on everything in the cabin. It hides water damage and makes clean up twice as much work. I am only able to work a weekend here and there so it may take a month or so. A lot of good information given and I will keep it all in mind. My mast step is solid and the port side is rock solid, although it has had some leaking. The 1" X 4" shims folks were referring to appear to be from the factory. Thanks again kloudie1 and jssailem!
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Jan 19, 2010
12,625
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
Is it possible to jig saw out the rotten part, fair the edges and epoxy in a new piece with some 1" wide fiber glass tape. Maybe put some bathroom grade vinyl paper over the entire bulkhead to hide you work.
 
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Feb 3, 2017
48
Hunter 25.5 Lake Thurmond, South Carolina
I am considering this. I have been sick with some nasty bug and want to have one more club member look at it first. I hate all that rotten wood, but if he says it is safe, I will do that. He has been a longtime friend and past Commodore here, former British racer and sailor, prior to moving to the states back in the eighties.
 
Feb 3, 2017
48
Hunter 25.5 Lake Thurmond, South Carolina
And thank you very much, rgranger, for your time and advice.
 
Last edited:
Jan 19, 2010
12,625
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
And thank you very much, rgranger, for your time and advice.
de nada

And when you re-bed your deck hardware to stop the leak... use Butyl Tape...

Here is a posting by Main Sail on the use of Butyl Tape.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

I ordered two rolls from him. The stuff is really high quality, much thicker than the stuff I was buying at Lowes and auto part stores. A+
 
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Feb 3, 2017
48
Hunter 25.5 Lake Thurmond, South Carolina
Thanks, rgranger. I did the same. Have two new rolls new ordered & it took four days instead of three but my postal svc here really sucks baaaad!
 
Feb 3, 2017
48
Hunter 25.5 Lake Thurmond, South Carolina
For Crazy Dave Condon: I have had a little trouble with my phone and have to delete or upload my photos or it freezes up. Old Iphone 5. And I use Carlos Slim, or Net 10, if you prefer. I also am fighting gettin over the flu and my wife has been giving me crap about going up to the lake by myself while sick. So I am going up again tomorrow evening and will get pics of both sides and top where it enters berth/galley. Later. Carl W
 
May 27, 2004
2,056
Hunter 30_74-83 Ponce Inlet FL
Even if the chain plate has a secure attachment behind the rotten "wood" you're going to have to put in a spacer to replace the stuff you cut out.
 
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Jun 8, 2004
10,469
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Received photos and input. Carl has recaulked the chain plate cover. The foreward section of the bulkhead where the chain plate is attached shows no leaks but only on the aft. suggested inspection but a way to leave the mast up to do so and will talk further with him on this.
 
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Apr 27, 2010
1,279
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
If you need to remove chainplate with mast up - I was able to replace the (much smaller) chain plate bulkhead on my H23 with the mast up. The 23 lacks a metal toe rail with holes so nowhere to attach a temporary stay using a halyard. I took 2 of the nylon strap/ratchet style tiedown straps and pulled each strap under the bow, sliding it back under the hull up to the front of the keel (holding each end on either side of the boat). I guess sort of like keel-hauling :waycool:. I tightened each, positioning the metal hooks right at the gunwale. I used two for safety - each a backup for the other. Tightened them enough to prevent any slippage. That allowed me to use the main halyard as a temporary stay by shackling it to the rings on the metal hooks - I tightened it only enough to support the mast from swaying more than a few inches. Of course, I replaced the rotted bulkhead as quickly as possible, as this is not an ideal support.
As an aside, I made the mistake of using hardwood, not ply, for the new bulkhead and compounded that by cutting the new bulkhead (which is sort of like a big shelf bracket on the 23) so the grain went vertically. At end of second season, that new bulkhead split vertically along the grain, with the bolts holding the chainplate on the wood pulling up an inch or two. I have to replace it again, this time with plywood, which I will seal on the upper edge with epoxy to help against water intrusion. I used MaineSail's butyl tape to seal the chain plate cover, which did keep the wood dry (for what that was worth, given it split anyway). Moral - avoid hardwood.
 
Feb 3, 2017
48
Hunter 25.5 Lake Thurmond, South Carolina
If you need to remove chainplate with mast up - I was able to replace the (much smaller) chain plate bulkhead on my H23 with the mast up. The 23 lacks a metal toe rail with holes so nowhere to attach a temporary stay using a halyard. I took 2 of the nylon strap/ratchet style tiedown straps and pulled each strap under the bow, sliding it back under the hull up to the front of the keel (holding each end on either side of the boat). I guess sort of like keel-hauling :waycool:. I tightened each, positioning the metal hooks right at the gunwale. I used two for safety - each a backup for the other. Tightened them enough to prevent any slippage. That allowed me to use the main halyard as a temporary stay by shackling it to the rings on the metal hooks - I tightened it only enough to support the mast from swaying more than a few inches. Of course, I replaced the rotted bulkhead as quickly as possible, as this is not an ideal support.
As an aside, I made the mistake of using hardwood, not ply, for the new bulkhead and compounded that by cutting the new bulkhead (which is sort of like a big shelf bracket on the 23) so the grain went vertically. At end of second season, that new bulkhead split vertically along the grain, with the bolts holding the chainplate on the wood pulling up an inch or two. I have to replace it again, this time with plywood, which I will seal on the upper edge with epoxy to help against water intrusion. I used MaineSail's butyl tape to seal the chain plate cover, which did keep the wood dry (for what that was worth, given it split anyway). Moral - avoid hardwood.