Chainplates and bulkheads

Joe11688 · Oct 29, 2009

Sailornels said:
OK, much has been written about leaking chainplates and bulkhead damage. In a nutshell, what do owners feel is the best caulk for the chainplates? I am thinking Lifecaulk or 3M 4200. Any suggestions?

How about bulkhead reinforcements? Longer bolts and back up w/hardwood boards? Has anyone tried GitRot on spongey bulkheads?

Thanks,
Sailornels

I've done the backup reinforcement with oak boards bolted to the settees and it makes for a good solid anchor point for the chainplates. Even with the reinforcement, I still had problems with water getting in around the chainplates. So I had some covers made up for the chainplates and had them welded to them with four holes in each cover for bolting them down to the deck. I installed back up plates for them. Today, I don't have a problem. If you don't want to go this route, I would use Boat Life Caulking or 3-M Polysulfide caulking. Check my Owner's Photo Album under "Trinkka" for pictures of the plates and backup boards. If you have spongy wood you're better off replacing it, I think.
Joe

emergpa1 · Nov 9, 2009

I have not used git rot, but i have restored some not so criticle soft plywood edges with regular epxoy (just kept brusing it on for several days) and was really impressed ou how tough the results were. I understand git rot is epoxy with mold killer mixed in. So it should work ok i would think.
As far as sealing the chainplates coming through the deck. be sure that the top of the holes are beveled, and that there is enough space around the chainplate itself so that the caulk can get down into it. be sure the the plate itself doesn not rest against the edges of your hole, you want to get the caulk/sealant all the way down and around that edge. I think in most of these situations, what you use is less important than how you use it. I have used both 3m 4200. and lifecaulk. I have had to remove both too, and both seemed to have good adhesion. If you are buying the small tube, and not the caulk gun type canister, lifecaulk is alot easier to squeeze out of that little tube than the 3m is. i could hardly get the 3m to flow.
keith

Shoaldrafter · Nov 10, 2009

Sailornels

emergpa1 said:
I have not used git rot, but i have restored some not so criticle soft plywood edges with regular epxoy (just kept brusing it on for several days) and was really impressed ou how tough the results were. I understand git rot is epoxy with mold killer mixed in. So it should work ok i would think.
As far as sealing the chainplates coming through the deck. be sure that the top of the holes are beveled, and that there is enough space around the chainplate itself so that the caulk can get down into it. be sure the the plate itself doesn not rest against the edges of your hole, you want to get the caulk/sealant all the way down and around that edge. I think in most of these situations, what you use is less important than how you use it. I have used both 3m 4200. and lifecaulk. I have had to remove both too, and both seemed to have good adhesion. If you are buying the small tube, and not the caulk gun type canister, lifecaulk is alot easier to squeeze out of that little tube than the 3m is. i could hardly get the 3m to flow.
keith

Sailornels,

A good source of epoxy and ingredients and information about epoxy:

1: http://www.gougeon.com/

2: http://www.epoxyproducts.com/

Ed K
26

Shoaldrafter · Nov 10, 2009

Re: Sailornels

Sailornels,

On O'Day sailboats the bulkheads are important structural parts. If they are spongy then they should be replaced. Get Rot is just a thin epoxy formulation. Also known as penetrating epoxy. These will not fix compromised structural integrity of rotted bulkheads. Works fine for cosmetic fixes.

Any repair other than replacement is just 'Mickey Mouse'.

Ed K
26

RichBone · Nov 10, 2009

Biggest part of replacing is the expense of the 1/2" teak ply. It's really not that hard of a job.

Rich

Chainplates and bulkheads

Sailornels

.

Joe11688

.

emergpa1

.

Shoaldrafter

.

Shoaldrafter

.

RichBone

.