Ritdog, I think gave you some good information. I have done this repair on many different boats and it is all preventable if the boat owner would only regularly caulk the slot around the chain plate that goes through the deck and fastens to the bulkhead. You need to pull the chain plate, remove the bad bulkhead and use it as a template for the new material. Use a marine plywood, because it has waterproof glue for its laminations. Even exterior plywood used in house construction does not have waterproof glue. You can repair the deck before you put in the bulkhead in case there is some underside work to be done. Instead of coring the deck, repair it with solid fiberglass in that area so that the next time moisture will not deteriorate the wooden core material. Take some good measurements so you know exactly where the slot is to be drilled or cut after your repair is complete. Obviously you don't want to pit the chain plate in a different location as that might compromise the distance for the mast shrouds. When tabbing in the new bulkhead, you should gut away the vernier where you will fiberglass the tape between the hull and the bulkhead. It is not a good idea to fiberglass over the vernier. If you do not have the skills or the patience to do such work (and have a lot of money lying around), then hire a professional to do the work. And, then, after the work is done, keep up with the caulking of the chain plate. Don't forget to check the starboard side too so you can avoid having to replace that bulkhead later on.
Chainplate torn through deck.
- Thread starter teacherspet
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Although it ripped through the deck the pieces are still there. I was thinking about taping it back into place and then taking a square and draw lines on where the edges would be for the slot. So it would look like a tic-tac-toe board Thereby I would have some points to go by when i repair the deck to make the cut. I am going to take all the ideas put them together and come up with a plan
Hey there Teacherspet. If interested see "And so it begins," under bigger boats for my method of chainplate reconstruction and sealing. The upper shroud chainplate was refastend to the bulkhead to locate it and the epoxy annulus poured around it with room for caulk. Jibes138 also suggested epoxy and microballoons as a core material as this is the preferred core of some high end boats.
I have had the boat a little over a year, so the rot had been building up 25+ years. So when the the turnbuckle came undone and the shrouds slamming into the roof the force and the weight of the mast plus the dry rot led to the chain plate being torn through the deck. What I am hearing is to repair the deck first make careful measurements install the new bulkhead cut the hole and install the chainplate
I'm with 25 yearslater- put the chainplate on the bulkhead, then pour the repair around it. Would make for an exact, tight fit- watch the beveling on the glass though, and I might coat the plate with some kind of release agent, so you could get it out later if you had to without having to DIG it out.
By backplating, I mean that I took 1/8" sheet steel, cut , ground, and sanded it to size, drilled the holes, and put it up against the cabin ceiling / deck INSIDE, and bolted all the through deck bolts over again. You will have to get longer screws to do this- 1/8" - 1/4 " longer. You can also use fiberglass disks, some people use wood, but I figured that the steel would be VERY strong.
The hard part is that angles of the bolts and holes have to match up EXACTLY , so I wound up having to make one of the holes 1/32" - 5/64" oversize, for wiggle room.
It's a time consuming process, but we feel good about our stanchions, cleats, etc.
You should have a skil saw with a metal blade, drill, grinder, and a 4 1/2" right angle grinder for this - makes it a lot easier for shaping things.
By backplating, I mean that I took 1/8" sheet steel, cut , ground, and sanded it to size, drilled the holes, and put it up against the cabin ceiling / deck INSIDE, and bolted all the through deck bolts over again. You will have to get longer screws to do this- 1/8" - 1/4 " longer. You can also use fiberglass disks, some people use wood, but I figured that the steel would be VERY strong.
The hard part is that angles of the bolts and holes have to match up EXACTLY , so I wound up having to make one of the holes 1/32" - 5/64" oversize, for wiggle room.
It's a time consuming process, but we feel good about our stanchions, cleats, etc.
You should have a skil saw with a metal blade, drill, grinder, and a 4 1/2" right angle grinder for this - makes it a lot easier for shaping things.
Great thread, i appreciate all the hard work you put into posting that.Page 2. On 10/24 and 10/25, there are pictures and the description.
I couldn't follow the instructions/description of the chainplate work, but that is my fault, I have been working a string of night shifts and i am a little fuzzy.
I recall repairing the deck, and then from inside the cabin, with bulkhead out, I used the slot on the inner liner to drill a pilot hole on either end. Then, went up on deck, found those pilot holes, and used a jig saw to make my slot for my chainplate on the outer deck. Then, i used files to shape and widen as needed.
another thought would be to make a template from cardboard from the starboard side and turn it over and lay it on the port (bad) side, you could use that to cut you hole also.
keith
Just to give you guys an up date. First thank you all. 25 Years Later, was dead on. For the first time in my life I was able to a project in one day. After getting the Lectra San Toilet system out. (Man what a mess) I followed your advice, used a jack and a 2X4 and viola the Port side Bulk head slid out like you said it would. I was able to trace out a pattern cut a new bulkhead and God be praised the new one fit like a glove. I could not believe it. Today I attached the chain plate. Luckily the the pieces of the deck although torn off I was able to piece them together like a puzzle and slide the chain plate in and attach it to the bulkhead.
The I began to use epoxy and thickener and so far so good. I was even able to glue back one deck piece the other for tomorrow. Next week will be repairing the crack where the deck meets the hull
Thanks again
The I began to use epoxy and thickener and so far so good. I was even able to glue back one deck piece the other for tomorrow. Next week will be repairing the crack where the deck meets the hull
Thanks again
You are most welcome Teachers Pet. This is truly a great bunch of people always willing to help out. Most have been through it and are gracious enough to offer their method as no one method may cover every aspect of every boat. Keep us posted.
Pulled my bulkheads last week and now need to find a place to buy the plywood. But I concur- removing them was almost laughingly easy, compared to my anticipation.
marine grade plywood
Do not waste money on fancy teak plywood. Just get good both sides marine grade plywood and paint. Just ask Keith how to do that.
Most repair yards can supply you with marine grade plywood. Some specialty lumber yards will order you a sheet or two.
If you cannot afford good both sides marine, then use good both sides exterior. Same glues involved just marine is guarenteed not to have any voids.
Have fun.
Ed K
Pet:
Do not waste money on fancy teak plywood. Just get good both sides marine grade plywood and paint. Just ask Keith how to do that.
Most repair yards can supply you with marine grade plywood. Some specialty lumber yards will order you a sheet or two.
If you cannot afford good both sides marine, then use good both sides exterior. Same glues involved just marine is guarenteed not to have any voids.
Have fun.
Ed K
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This is the middle of Indiana, there are no repair yards here.
Luckily I've found that the Wooden Boat Shop, which specializes in antique power boats, sells plywood. I can pick up a sheet next time I'm in Cincinnati.
Luckily I've found that the Wooden Boat Shop, which specializes in antique power boats, sells plywood. I can pick up a sheet next time I'm in Cincinnati.
Hi there Indy. As you know from my fiasco I got a real schooling in plywood. I settled for Joubert Okoume as Teak structural ply was not readily available and was very high priced. In the process I am just as happy with the Okoume. The BS 1088 standard is what differentiates marine plywood from all the others. While exterior may work as well the differences apply to water boiled proof glue, core of hardwood and no voids or plugged voids in the core. The standard is quite a boring read but highlights some of the major differences with marine plywood. I would be interested in the outcome of others who have used exterior grade as marine grade may be a bit excessive. Me, I'm chicken and the Lloyd's Register sticker is a bragging point.
Oh yeah, I read and learned from the saga of your experience. Documenting your project has been very instructive. I spent time reading up on plywood after reading your thread.
Pet
Also, seal the chain plate bolt holes in plywood. Drill once, seal interior edges of bolt hole and redrill.
After you get boat sailable, bring it south...
Ed K
Just a reminder, seal all ends of plywood, including marine grade. I recommend thin or penetrating epoxy. And it may take two applications to get good seal.
Also, seal the chain plate bolt holes in plywood. Drill once, seal interior edges of bolt hole and redrill.
After you get boat sailable, bring it south...
Ed K
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South indeed. Sometimes I wonder why I ever left the Carolinas. Thanks for the suggestions.Shoaldrafter said:
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