I am currently refinishing a teak bow pulpit that is made up of many boards laminated together it is showing some gaps between the boards. Can I sand entire piece down fill gaps with epoxy sand flat and finish with cetol??
Cetol over epoxy resin???
- Thread starter Cmp1110
- Start date
- Status
Not sure about cetol. I've coated the teak on my boat with epoxy (2-3 coats) and then over coated that with 2-3 coats of varnish. Turned out quite nice and is holding up exceptionally well. If you do use this process remember to use "clear" hardener. Good luck.
I think that should work. Remember to wash off all the epoxy amine blush with a scotchbrite pad and water. Sand the surface to about 220 grit to provide some adhesion for the cetol. Will be very interested to hear the long term results. Only downside I can see is that cetol doesn't abrade as well as varnish and may weaken the finish wherever there is chafe.
Pafb ..................... you took my old favorite away.
Cetol is a load of snake oil. I finished my teak with epoxy years ago, exactly as you've done, and it still looks like wet varnish to this day.
http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=897251&highlight=epoxy teak
Looking at this a little bit closer:
Cetol - blurs the teak grain, breaks down over 2 -3 years until it looks like crap, finally has to be scraped off and refinished.
Epoxy - crystal clear and enhances the grain, still looks like wet varnish after five years. Period
There ................ that oughta liven things up around here :stirthepot: .
Epoxy is rapidly destroyed by UV, therefore the preference would be for 'regular' Cetol which has LOTS of UV 'filters', less so with cetol light, and almost zero protection with Cetol 'clear'.
If you 'fill' the epoxy with black 'carbon power' the service life of the epoxy exposed to 'sunlight - UV' the 'accumulating destruction' will be much lessened and the 'service life extended' .... and you won't have to 'maintain and periodically repair' the epoxy 'joints' that are exposed to sunlight.
If you 'fill' the epoxy with black 'carbon power' the service life of the epoxy exposed to 'sunlight - UV' the 'accumulating destruction' will be much lessened and the 'service life extended' .... and you won't have to 'maintain and periodically repair' the epoxy 'joints' that are exposed to sunlight.
I have done the epoxy base for the good sealing properties of it then applied epifanes over it for UV protection with excellent results... but like sandpiper said, wash the epoxy with a scotchbrite pad and water... a bit of soap helps too.... make sure the epoxy has cured for at least two weeks before covering with any other product for best results...
I don't think that Cetol over epoxy would be a good idea. You may want to test this on some scrap wood to check it out.
One of the advantages of Cetol is the fact that it breaths. If you are going to use epoxy then you probably want to finish it with a high quality varnish.
If you decide to go with Cetol you may want to investigate their "Natual Teak" color. It does not have the "orange" finish (iron oxide).
My current boat has NO exterior teak (and I am very happy about it).
Regardless of what product you choose, I suggest that you have Sunbrella covers made to cover the wood when the boat is NOT in use.
I had some boards in my companionway what have a cover over them on my old H'31. They were finished over 10 years ago and still look good.
One of the advantages of Cetol is the fact that it breaths. If you are going to use epoxy then you probably want to finish it with a high quality varnish.
If you decide to go with Cetol you may want to investigate their "Natual Teak" color. It does not have the "orange" finish (iron oxide).
My current boat has NO exterior teak (and I am very happy about it).
Regardless of what product you choose, I suggest that you have Sunbrella covers made to cover the wood when the boat is NOT in use.
I had some boards in my companionway what have a cover over them on my old H'31. They were finished over 10 years ago and still look good.
Thanks everyone for your help. I am not planning to use they epoxy to coat whole piece just as a stable filler for the open seams in the lay up I appreciate all input and wanted to make sure I was clear about application wood will be raw and I plan to fill joints and sand flat rich h is carbon powder available at west marine??
Yes, WEST System #423 "Graphite Powder".
Available from SBO too:
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?13585
Available from SBO too:
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?13585
It always amuses me how many people don't address the real question. The man wants to fill cracks, not use epoxy as a base over all his teak for Cetol to later be applied. Yes, you can fix your gaps and cracks with epoxy and then use Cetol over your teak in the usual manner. If you use a white gap filler, then the white will show up, of course. You might consider taking teak saw dust and mix it in with your resin to help match it up better.
The real question was using epoxy in laminate gaps exposed to sunlight and where epoxy will degenerate due to UV breakdown.
WHITE, of any material because the 'colorant' is usually titanium dioxide, will have greatest accelerated UV destruction than dark/black - sail material, paint, caulk, gelcoat, ..... filled epoxy etc.
WHITE, of any material because the 'colorant' is usually titanium dioxide, will have greatest accelerated UV destruction than dark/black - sail material, paint, caulk, gelcoat, ..... filled epoxy etc.
Hi,
I had a soft spot on my tiller at the end, where it joins the tiller straps. The area was small, about 1/4 inch square by 2 inches. I took a small piece of mahogany to fill the void of soft wood I chiseled out. I coated this mahogany piece with epoxy (west system) and the put in the chiseled out hole. I used the remaining epoxy, thickened up with some adhesive filler and wrapped with plastic and clamped up. Then after the epoxy hardened/cured (the next day when I finally got around to it) i sanded all old varnish off tiller and revarnished with MinWax 'Spar Urethene' that I had laying around.
To make a long story short - it looks good, the 'urethane' seems to be attached to the epoxy that was visible in the repair.
I had a soft spot on my tiller at the end, where it joins the tiller straps. The area was small, about 1/4 inch square by 2 inches. I took a small piece of mahogany to fill the void of soft wood I chiseled out. I coated this mahogany piece with epoxy (west system) and the put in the chiseled out hole. I used the remaining epoxy, thickened up with some adhesive filler and wrapped with plastic and clamped up. Then after the epoxy hardened/cured (the next day when I finally got around to it) i sanded all old varnish off tiller and revarnished with MinWax 'Spar Urethene' that I had laying around.
To make a long story short - it looks good, the 'urethane' seems to be attached to the epoxy that was visible in the repair.
Yes, I regularly repair cracks in my teak toe-rail using West G/flex colored with teak dust, sand, and refinish with Cetol.
I think the Gflex makes sense as it is more flexible. However the best bet might be to do the filling with Daly's Seafin wet sanded in with about a 220 grit. Makes a good filling paste. I have also wetsanded with Cetol to even up the colour. Don't wet sand with varnish as it won't cure to the bottom. The reason for the Cetol is it will even up the colour even if it does somewhat obscure the grain a bit. Good quality varnish over it all will give a good long lasting finish. Many coats required - like about 10.
- Status