I have just bought a 22 in an estate sale. The boat is in the water and in pretty sad shape. I was allowed a quick look at her and had to make a quick decision, so I made an offer and it was accepted. Problem is, I am going to haul her out this weekend and I have no idea if the centerboard is up or down or how to raise or lower it. I will not get to see the boat until I take it from the slip to the lift, so can any one tell me where to start looking(apart from under the boat!)?
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Stu Timm
Centerboard Answer
Congratulations on your purchase. I hope that the boat is a good one for you. I have a centerboard model as well and appreciate the variable geometry of the swing keel when reaching. To answer your question, the O'day 22 centerboard is a fiberglass blade, about 4 feet long and wighing about 40 pounds, that tucks into a hollowed out lead shoal keel. The keel hangs below the hull and there's no centerboard trunk in the cabin. The blade is lowered via a pennant (or small line) located in the cockpit. The line should be at the companionway opening to the cabin, at the very bottom of the hatchway step. There should be a little grommet with (hopefully) a small line coming out of it and leading to a cleat located near the cockpit deck. The cleat is mounted vertically on the bulkhead of the cabin and faces aft. There's a tube in the cabin under the companionway that leads from the grommet down into the bottom of the boat. Unfortunately, the tube prevents most coolers from being stowed under the companionway as is traditional for small sailboats. If the boat has been in the water for long, it may need to have the pennant replaced as they will rot with time. If there is a line there, tied off to the cleat, gingerly untie it and pull it up slowly to see what condition the pennant is in. Don't worry if the line is parted or split. It's no big deal to replace when the boat is hauled. If the boat has no cleat, and no grommet, you may not have a centerboard model. Look if there's a line and cleat inside as well. Who knows, perhaps O'day reveresed the centerboard rig through the years they made the 22. Our fellow web members may want to shed light on that issue. The centerboard should come out with the boat when they haul it. If there's no line, it'll hang there (hopefully). If the boat's hauled and the keel has the hollowed out trunk, but no blade, get your money back! If you're not sure about the condition of the centerboard and it's pivot bearing, try to run a line under the bow of the boat, looping it under the boat. With the help of a friend, walk the line aft towards the keel. When you get there, pull up on the line and try to feel your way around to see if you can lift the centerboard into the trunk. If you tie the line off to a railing or stanchion, that will do for the hauling process until you get a new pennant hooked up to the centerboard. The centerboard will not float and will hang there when the boat is in the water. I replaced my centerboard line (no big deal) but that left my boat with a minor humming vibration when near top speed under sail. That's probably from the turbulence around the new line or a loose centerboard pivot. I adjust the centerboard line tension a bit and that usually stops the noise. Any other questions, let me know! We centerboarders are few and far between those "shoalers". Good Luck!
Congratulations on your purchase. I hope that the boat is a good one for you. I have a centerboard model as well and appreciate the variable geometry of the swing keel when reaching. To answer your question, the O'day 22 centerboard is a fiberglass blade, about 4 feet long and wighing about 40 pounds, that tucks into a hollowed out lead shoal keel. The keel hangs below the hull and there's no centerboard trunk in the cabin. The blade is lowered via a pennant (or small line) located in the cockpit. The line should be at the companionway opening to the cabin, at the very bottom of the hatchway step. There should be a little grommet with (hopefully) a small line coming out of it and leading to a cleat located near the cockpit deck. The cleat is mounted vertically on the bulkhead of the cabin and faces aft. There's a tube in the cabin under the companionway that leads from the grommet down into the bottom of the boat. Unfortunately, the tube prevents most coolers from being stowed under the companionway as is traditional for small sailboats. If the boat has been in the water for long, it may need to have the pennant replaced as they will rot with time. If there is a line there, tied off to the cleat, gingerly untie it and pull it up slowly to see what condition the pennant is in. Don't worry if the line is parted or split. It's no big deal to replace when the boat is hauled. If the boat has no cleat, and no grommet, you may not have a centerboard model. Look if there's a line and cleat inside as well. Who knows, perhaps O'day reveresed the centerboard rig through the years they made the 22. Our fellow web members may want to shed light on that issue. The centerboard should come out with the boat when they haul it. If there's no line, it'll hang there (hopefully). If the boat's hauled and the keel has the hollowed out trunk, but no blade, get your money back! If you're not sure about the condition of the centerboard and it's pivot bearing, try to run a line under the bow of the boat, looping it under the boat. With the help of a friend, walk the line aft towards the keel. When you get there, pull up on the line and try to feel your way around to see if you can lift the centerboard into the trunk. If you tie the line off to a railing or stanchion, that will do for the hauling process until you get a new pennant hooked up to the centerboard. The centerboard will not float and will hang there when the boat is in the water. I replaced my centerboard line (no big deal) but that left my boat with a minor humming vibration when near top speed under sail. That's probably from the turbulence around the new line or a loose centerboard pivot. I adjust the centerboard line tension a bit and that usually stops the noise. Any other questions, let me know! We centerboarders are few and far between those "shoalers". Good Luck!
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Rod Johnson
O'Day 22 centerboard/shoal keel models
O'Day built the 22 as a shoal keel (1' 11" draft) from 1971 until 1978, in 1979 the keel/centerboard model was introduced and the shoal keel was no longer built. In addition, from 1971 until 1979, the O'Day 22 had a masthead-rig, that is the forestay was attached at the masthead. From 1980 until production stopped in 1983, the rig was a fractional-rig, that is the forestay attaches about 3/4 of the way up the front of the mast. This rig was also taller and had more sail area. I think that for the entire production run of the K/CB model, the cb pendant (lifting line) was rigged as described to a cleat on the forward bulkhead of the cockpit. If the boat has the fractional-rig, it will be a K/CB model (unless owner modified?) if the boat has the masthead rig, it will be a shoal keel if she is a 1978 or earlier model, K/CB if a 1979. The Hull I.D. number on the transom of a 1973 or newer model will have the model year as the last 2 digits in the HIN. check www.odaysailboats.com for info on reading the HIN.
O'Day built the 22 as a shoal keel (1' 11" draft) from 1971 until 1978, in 1979 the keel/centerboard model was introduced and the shoal keel was no longer built. In addition, from 1971 until 1979, the O'Day 22 had a masthead-rig, that is the forestay was attached at the masthead. From 1980 until production stopped in 1983, the rig was a fractional-rig, that is the forestay attaches about 3/4 of the way up the front of the mast. This rig was also taller and had more sail area. I think that for the entire production run of the K/CB model, the cb pendant (lifting line) was rigged as described to a cleat on the forward bulkhead of the cockpit. If the boat has the fractional-rig, it will be a K/CB model (unless owner modified?) if the boat has the masthead rig, it will be a shoal keel if she is a 1978 or earlier model, K/CB if a 1979. The Hull I.D. number on the transom of a 1973 or newer model will have the model year as the last 2 digits in the HIN. check www.odaysailboats.com for info on reading the HIN.
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Bryan
Thank you Rod and Stu!
The forestay goes to the top of the mast and there is no gromet visable on the bulkhead so I guess I have nothing to worry about. The lift I will be using is just that, a floor that lifts the boat from underneath without the use of straps. As a precaution I will run a line under the boat from end to end as suggested just in case, but it would seem that this is a shoal boat. Now that I know I do not have a centerboard, I sort of wish I did, but no doubt I will have my hands full as it is. Thank you so much for your help, it is very reassuring to know that there is advice availble for novices like myself. No doubt I will be asking more dumb questions in the weeks ahead!
The forestay goes to the top of the mast and there is no gromet visable on the bulkhead so I guess I have nothing to worry about. The lift I will be using is just that, a floor that lifts the boat from underneath without the use of straps. As a precaution I will run a line under the boat from end to end as suggested just in case, but it would seem that this is a shoal boat. Now that I know I do not have a centerboard, I sort of wish I did, but no doubt I will have my hands full as it is. Thank you so much for your help, it is very reassuring to know that there is advice availble for novices like myself. No doubt I will be asking more dumb questions in the weeks ahead!
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Stu Timm
Double Check!
Hi Bryan, You might want to double check that you don't have a CB model. That grommet I wrote about is partially to totally conceiled by the companionway boards when they're in place. When you're down at the boat, open up the companionway, and remove the boards. The grommet for the centerboard pennant is right at the bottom of the companionway opening. Just a thought, that's all. Happy Sailing!
Hi Bryan, You might want to double check that you don't have a CB model. That grommet I wrote about is partially to totally conceiled by the companionway boards when they're in place. When you're down at the boat, open up the companionway, and remove the boards. The grommet for the centerboard pennant is right at the bottom of the companionway opening. Just a thought, that's all. Happy Sailing!
B
Bryan
Double checked
Haul out completed, no centerboard, hull is in superb shape as is the rest of the boat once all the dirt and grime was removed. I love my little boat! Any suggestions as to the best outboard motor for a 22?
Haul out completed, no centerboard, hull is in superb shape as is the rest of the boat once all the dirt and grime was removed. I love my little boat! Any suggestions as to the best outboard motor for a 22?
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Stu Timm
Motor Choices
Hi Bryan, The O'Day 22 is moved along quite well with a 6 HP longshaft. You can up to a 9.9 HP, which will give you greater thrust with an option for electric start. I believe some folks have even gone to a 15 hp, but that's awfully heavy for the boat and will make it lean to stbd. Even the 65 lb. 6 hp I have, makes my boat list to stbd. a few inches. I compensate by loading auxiliary gas and water on the port side. I'd recommend that whatever motor you get, that you get rectifier with it (charger for the battery). This will give you a 1.5 amp/hr to 5.5 amp/hr trickle charge as you motor along to keep the battery topped off, run the radio, lights, whatever. I have a Johnson Seamaster 6 Hp long shaft with a rectifier (alternator). I can do about 3 knots at cruising speed and have never had it any higher. I don't believe or feel that the standard bracket that comes with the O'Day 22 is really rated for anything more than a 9 HP, (under 80 - 90 pounds engine weight) and if you want to up to a bigger motor like a 9.9 or 15hp, I'd seriously look into a heavier motor bracket. I removed the single arm bracket on the angled fiberglass block that my 22 came with and put a Gareleck twin arm mount directly to the transom. Gareleck makes a unit that can adapt to the reverse counter on the O'Day's transom but needs full rake in the bracket setting to work. I backed the bracket with a 3/4 inch piece of marine plywood glued / bedded into place and thru-bolted tight. New outboards are pricey options unless you get a bargain for a used one in good shape. The 4 strokes are great but very heavy and very pricey. Most are 2 stroke and are quite dependable. Make sure you have at least 22 to 25" of shaft length and a good motor mount that'll give you full lifting abilities. If you need pics of the mount I installed, let me know. Regards, Stu Timm "Karakahl" Centerport, LI
Hi Bryan, The O'Day 22 is moved along quite well with a 6 HP longshaft. You can up to a 9.9 HP, which will give you greater thrust with an option for electric start. I believe some folks have even gone to a 15 hp, but that's awfully heavy for the boat and will make it lean to stbd. Even the 65 lb. 6 hp I have, makes my boat list to stbd. a few inches. I compensate by loading auxiliary gas and water on the port side. I'd recommend that whatever motor you get, that you get rectifier with it (charger for the battery). This will give you a 1.5 amp/hr to 5.5 amp/hr trickle charge as you motor along to keep the battery topped off, run the radio, lights, whatever. I have a Johnson Seamaster 6 Hp long shaft with a rectifier (alternator). I can do about 3 knots at cruising speed and have never had it any higher. I don't believe or feel that the standard bracket that comes with the O'Day 22 is really rated for anything more than a 9 HP, (under 80 - 90 pounds engine weight) and if you want to up to a bigger motor like a 9.9 or 15hp, I'd seriously look into a heavier motor bracket. I removed the single arm bracket on the angled fiberglass block that my 22 came with and put a Gareleck twin arm mount directly to the transom. Gareleck makes a unit that can adapt to the reverse counter on the O'Day's transom but needs full rake in the bracket setting to work. I backed the bracket with a 3/4 inch piece of marine plywood glued / bedded into place and thru-bolted tight. New outboards are pricey options unless you get a bargain for a used one in good shape. The 4 strokes are great but very heavy and very pricey. Most are 2 stroke and are quite dependable. Make sure you have at least 22 to 25" of shaft length and a good motor mount that'll give you full lifting abilities. If you need pics of the mount I installed, let me know. Regards, Stu Timm "Karakahl" Centerport, LI
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Drew
Motor Choice
I agree with Stu, a six horse will push your boat fine. I have a 22 also with a older Johnson 6 on it and we motor along quite well. A rectifier/alternator is a great option if you can find one since you never know when you will stuck out at night and need to use the nav lights
I agree with Stu, a six horse will push your boat fine. I have a 22 also with a older Johnson 6 on it and we motor along quite well. A rectifier/alternator is a great option if you can find one since you never know when you will stuck out at night and need to use the nav lights
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