On the 4th time we pulled up the centerboard, the line broke. It was shreaded about 10 inches from the board itself. We spent 2 memorable days in a fiberglass repair yard in Truth Or Consequences, NM, with the boat on a hoist and getting instructions for a do-it-yourself repair by cell phone from Greg at Hunter. He was a big help. He talked us thru the repair and helped salvage a ruined vacation. ( We had planned our cruise thru the Sea of Cortez for a year and that included buying a new Hunter.) However, the first fix did not work. At the end of the first day, we thought we were done. We tried to pull up the centerboard and it would not move. We had to drop the whole thing again and start over. The new line was shreaded half through so it was a good thing we did. The next morning we searched the town for a new line and more parts and tackled the job again. Apparently the bracket has extra holes ( maybe for other models) and we picked a wrong one. The schematic in the manual did not help. ( the pins dropped out when the board came out so we couldn't re-construct from what we saw) We discovered that there was a metal burr in the pipe that goes thru the hull. This is where the centerboard line goes thru the hull. It was fairly small, but right at the spot where the 2 lines had shreaded. It was the only thing possible to cause the damage, so we finally found a tool that would reach in there and ground off the burr.We passed the line thru that spot several times to be sure we had fixed the snag, before re-assembling the centerboard and mounting it. I'd be curious to know if anyone else has had a similar problem. (Given some of the posts about new Hunter quality problems) Nancy Berg H260 Ay Chihuahua (no longer Zia) ALbuquerque, NM
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Terry
Same here
We had a similar problem. Had to be hauled out. It was caused either by a sharp metal fragment (found on a later occasion) or by too long a bolt that holds the whole mechanism up to the hull. The boatyard shortend the bolt and filed the sharp edges. Since the whole mechanism was out, we put antifouling up around in the cavity. We also moved the board up and down and marked the haul-up rope with the two extreme positions of the board. Our excellent dealer, Dave Condon of American Sail covered the repairs.
We had a similar problem. Had to be hauled out. It was caused either by a sharp metal fragment (found on a later occasion) or by too long a bolt that holds the whole mechanism up to the hull. The boatyard shortend the bolt and filed the sharp edges. Since the whole mechanism was out, we put antifouling up around in the cavity. We also moved the board up and down and marked the haul-up rope with the two extreme positions of the board. Our excellent dealer, Dave Condon of American Sail covered the repairs.
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Steve
PLEASE Tell us all how????
I anticipate my H26 to someday suffer this set back at the worst possible moment, have put off changing the line before it breaks (prevenative maintenance) do to really not knowing how! Can you or any one else give us a run down, in easy step by step procedures on how you dropped the board and gained access to the tie in point, etc.. It should help me and "many" others as this is bound to happen to every 26/23 etc. owner someday! Steve
I anticipate my H26 to someday suffer this set back at the worst possible moment, have put off changing the line before it breaks (prevenative maintenance) do to really not knowing how! Can you or any one else give us a run down, in easy step by step procedures on how you dropped the board and gained access to the tie in point, etc.. It should help me and "many" others as this is bound to happen to every 26/23 etc. owner someday! Steve
Don't know if it is possible but...
have you thought about replacing the line with a piece of vinyl coated cable like they use on the life lines. This would be much less likely to wear and is realitively inexpensive.
have you thought about replacing the line with a piece of vinyl coated cable like they use on the life lines. This would be much less likely to wear and is realitively inexpensive.
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Bill and Nancy Berg
Replacing centerboard line.
This is how we did it. NO GUARANTEES!User discretion advised. First off, the SCARY STUFF!! The centerboard is held in place by a large bolt thru a hole in th bottom of the boat! If you don't do it right you get water in the cabin! Second, you must have a hoist for the boat and at least 2-3 strong people to lift the centerboard up into position to re-attach it to the bolt. OK here goes: 1) Remove the centerboard Under the dinette there is a plate on the housing for the centerboad bolt and the mast compression post base. Remove the coverplate. The c/b bolt is on the metal plate aft of the compression post. It should be covered by a glob of sealant/adhesive to waterproof the opening. Support the centerboard from below. It's very heavy (100lbs+?). Loosen and remove the bolt. The c/b may not drop out so pull it out of the housing. CAREFULL The pins (2?) on the c/b are not attached, just inserted in the cb bracket. It looks like Hunter used masking tape to hold the pins in place when reinstalling the cb, boy did that help.( The pins are nice and big/large diameter. I won't worry about them bending) You can see the cb line and how it is attached and goes under the nylon sheve and then up thru a pipe and to the deck above. Use the old one for a messenger line if possible. Note: Someone asked about using wire instead of rope. I don't know, ask Hunter. I don't think so because of the size. A smaller diameter could get pinched in the sheave and wire may not turn up top on the deck where it turns and goes thru the sheave there. (too stiff) 2) Reinstall c/b Caulking and sealing is the most important part here. It appeared that Hunter used masking tape to form a "pocket" to keep caulk in place while srewing in the bolt. From under the boat, look up at the housing where the bolt will go from above. That is where to make the pocket and fill from above with lots of caulk. (Remember WATER!) Lift up the board into position, be careful not to pinch the line (keep tension from above) and screw in the bolt. Just before it is all the way tight, caulk the bolt head and tighten. Check to see if the line operates correctly and then caulk the bolt head on the top. NOTE: Th cb is very hard to pull up when not in the water. (needs bouyancy) We also learned from Greg that the c/b does NOT pull up all the way. It is made to come up to about 10 inches from the bottom of the boat with the line. this may explain why it drops down if you miss the center support on the trailer.) Now that we've done it TWICE, it's pretty simple. Hope this help. Corrections and suggestions appreciated. Bill and Nancy Berg H260 Ay Chihuahua ALbuquerque, NM Sailberg@aol.com
This is how we did it. NO GUARANTEES!User discretion advised. First off, the SCARY STUFF!! The centerboard is held in place by a large bolt thru a hole in th bottom of the boat! If you don't do it right you get water in the cabin! Second, you must have a hoist for the boat and at least 2-3 strong people to lift the centerboard up into position to re-attach it to the bolt. OK here goes: 1) Remove the centerboard Under the dinette there is a plate on the housing for the centerboad bolt and the mast compression post base. Remove the coverplate. The c/b bolt is on the metal plate aft of the compression post. It should be covered by a glob of sealant/adhesive to waterproof the opening. Support the centerboard from below. It's very heavy (100lbs+?). Loosen and remove the bolt. The c/b may not drop out so pull it out of the housing. CAREFULL The pins (2?) on the c/b are not attached, just inserted in the cb bracket. It looks like Hunter used masking tape to hold the pins in place when reinstalling the cb, boy did that help.( The pins are nice and big/large diameter. I won't worry about them bending) You can see the cb line and how it is attached and goes under the nylon sheve and then up thru a pipe and to the deck above. Use the old one for a messenger line if possible. Note: Someone asked about using wire instead of rope. I don't know, ask Hunter. I don't think so because of the size. A smaller diameter could get pinched in the sheave and wire may not turn up top on the deck where it turns and goes thru the sheave there. (too stiff) 2) Reinstall c/b Caulking and sealing is the most important part here. It appeared that Hunter used masking tape to form a "pocket" to keep caulk in place while srewing in the bolt. From under the boat, look up at the housing where the bolt will go from above. That is where to make the pocket and fill from above with lots of caulk. (Remember WATER!) Lift up the board into position, be careful not to pinch the line (keep tension from above) and screw in the bolt. Just before it is all the way tight, caulk the bolt head and tighten. Check to see if the line operates correctly and then caulk the bolt head on the top. NOTE: Th cb is very hard to pull up when not in the water. (needs bouyancy) We also learned from Greg that the c/b does NOT pull up all the way. It is made to come up to about 10 inches from the bottom of the boat with the line. this may explain why it drops down if you miss the center support on the trailer.) Now that we've done it TWICE, it's pretty simple. Hope this help. Corrections and suggestions appreciated. Bill and Nancy Berg H260 Ay Chihuahua ALbuquerque, NM Sailberg@aol.com
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Bob Gravenstine
Just in time information.
Thanks for the great step by step instructions. I will be going to the yard that has my boat for the lightning damage estimate. We will drop the board and look for damage in the trunk area. While we are at it I want the uphaul to be changed. I'm not sure the yard knows how this is done on the Hunter 26. Your information will be our guide. Thanks again. Bob "Gravyboat"
Thanks for the great step by step instructions. I will be going to the yard that has my boat for the lightning damage estimate. We will drop the board and look for damage in the trunk area. While we are at it I want the uphaul to be changed. I'm not sure the yard knows how this is done on the Hunter 26. Your information will be our guide. Thanks again. Bob "Gravyboat"
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Dave Condon
line
Bob; Nancy pointed out the burr which was the cause. A couple of times I have seen the line routed the wrong way and no roller over the pin. When removing the centerboard, suggest that you have a messenger line thru the compression post when removing the C/B line and take mental notes how the centerboard is removed. Crazy Dave
Bob; Nancy pointed out the burr which was the cause. A couple of times I have seen the line routed the wrong way and no roller over the pin. When removing the centerboard, suggest that you have a messenger line thru the compression post when removing the C/B line and take mental notes how the centerboard is removed. Crazy Dave
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Bob Gravenstine
Thanks Dave.
I'm not sure that I will be there in time to have a messenger line installed on the old uphaul. I was told that the boat will be in the sling ready for inspection. This may mean that the board will be out by the time I arrive. I suggested to the yard manager that the new line be sewn to the old one before it is pulled out so that it will pass through the gob of sealant, at least that is what it looks like, in the bottom of the post receiver. Boy, I hope I made that clear. Thanks for your input. Bob "Gravyboat"
I'm not sure that I will be there in time to have a messenger line installed on the old uphaul. I was told that the boat will be in the sling ready for inspection. This may mean that the board will be out by the time I arrive. I suggested to the yard manager that the new line be sewn to the old one before it is pulled out so that it will pass through the gob of sealant, at least that is what it looks like, in the bottom of the post receiver. Boy, I hope I made that clear. Thanks for your input. Bob "Gravyboat"
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Peter Harding
It happened to me
The second time we went sailing in our new Hunter 260 the c/b haul rope broke, Yea! I phoned Graig at Hunters and he was very helpful.Where we were there was no boat hoist to use. We had to use a crain with a spreader bar system so we would not crush the sides of the boat when lifting. .Well we did the repair ourselfs. it took us about three hours complete. thats including fishing a new line through, our dealer told us to pull the rope out to see if it was frade or did the knot just came undone, If all possible leave rope in and use it as a guide for the new rope.Thats only if the rope is still visable from the through hole in the c/b well. If you have pulled your haul rope out , it's easier to use a wire snake and snake it from the hull to the deck. It took me at least ten attempts to snake from the deck through to the hull. First try from the bottem up we were through, I used needle nose pliers to pull the wire snake over the pully on top deck.We've only gone sailing onces since we've fixed it. So hopefully the horse shoes are in the are place and we don't have to deal with it again. Graig from Hunters did say that they would cover all costs of repairs.
The second time we went sailing in our new Hunter 260 the c/b haul rope broke, Yea! I phoned Graig at Hunters and he was very helpful.Where we were there was no boat hoist to use. We had to use a crain with a spreader bar system so we would not crush the sides of the boat when lifting. .Well we did the repair ourselfs. it took us about three hours complete. thats including fishing a new line through, our dealer told us to pull the rope out to see if it was frade or did the knot just came undone, If all possible leave rope in and use it as a guide for the new rope.Thats only if the rope is still visable from the through hole in the c/b well. If you have pulled your haul rope out , it's easier to use a wire snake and snake it from the hull to the deck. It took me at least ten attempts to snake from the deck through to the hull. First try from the bottem up we were through, I used needle nose pliers to pull the wire snake over the pully on top deck.We've only gone sailing onces since we've fixed it. So hopefully the horse shoes are in the are place and we don't have to deal with it again. Graig from Hunters did say that they would cover all costs of repairs.
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Tim Houston
Stupid question time...
If the centerboard line breaks while you are in the water, is it possible to get the boat back onto the trailer? What would the procedure be to do that?
If the centerboard line breaks while you are in the water, is it possible to get the boat back onto the trailer? What would the procedure be to do that?
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Ron Mehringer
Stupid answer time...
If your cb line breaks, while out on the water this is what I'd try. Lower a length of line or webbing strap over the bow, keeping hold of one end to starboard and one to port. Start moving back until you snag the cb (takes 2 people). Now you want to pull backwards a little and up to pull the cb into the trunk. The trick is getting the line back far enough on the cb so that it's not too hard to lift without having the strap slip backwards off the cb. Once the cb is all the way in (you should hear the "clunk"), secure the line. With any luck, you should be able to get the boat on the trailer this way. Ron M s/v Hydro-Therapy
If your cb line breaks, while out on the water this is what I'd try. Lower a length of line or webbing strap over the bow, keeping hold of one end to starboard and one to port. Start moving back until you snag the cb (takes 2 people). Now you want to pull backwards a little and up to pull the cb into the trunk. The trick is getting the line back far enough on the cb so that it's not too hard to lift without having the strap slip backwards off the cb. Once the cb is all the way in (you should hear the "clunk"), secure the line. With any luck, you should be able to get the boat on the trailer this way. Ron M s/v Hydro-Therapy
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