Centerboard Line Replacement Without Boat Lift!

[WTA]

I read all of the posts in the archives related to the topic of replacing the centerboard uphaul line on the water ballast Hunter models. This is really a simple procedure and the process of replacing the line has been discussed thoroughly. Thanks to all for the info, without it I probably would not have had the confidence to do this myself.

The only kicker was that every post that I read said the boat had to be on boat stands to replace the line. I just could not see paying the folks at the marina $11/foot to lift the boat then $1/foot/day to keep it on the yard just to complete this simple maintence.

Well I hauled the boat out on the trailer in front of Gustav and while I had it there, I decided I would go for it. Using standard car jacks and the trailer tounge jack, I jacked the boat and trailer up in the air very slowly and evenly.

Then I used cinder blocks, RV jack stands, and wood pads covered in carpet (b/w jack and hull), and built my on homemade boat stands and placed them directly under the points on the hull where the sling locations are marked. Let me say here that these stands actually turned out to be fairly sturdy but I was a little nervous at first.

Anyway, with two stands in the rear of the boat and two stands forward, I proceeded to lower the jacks holding the trailer up. Again, very slowly and evenly. I strapped the opposing stands together just as you would with standard boat stands.

With about 8 inches of clearence between the boat and the trailer bunks I was able to drop the centerboard, replace the line, and re-attach the centerboard. I also used this as a prime opportunity to put a new coat of bottom paint on the boat.

I reveresed the procedure to get the boat back on the trailer and now she is ready to go back in the water. I have pictures of this process and will post them to the photo forum when it comes back on-line next week.

This was one of those projects that took a day to complete and month to plan and muster up the courage for.

Happy Sailing

WTA

 

[George]

Jacking up H240

Very intersted in this . Let us know when you post the pictures.

 

[BrianW]

George and Crazy Dave, Your Opinions?

Thanks for sharing your experience WTA! George and Crazy Dave, I'd very much appreciate your opinions and commentaries on this process.If WTA's method looks good for H24/260's, I'd especially appreciate your opinions on how to adapt this to H26/260's. A SAFE method to "home" lift Hunter water-ballasted boats off the trailer high enough to lower the rudder has kinda been like searching for the Holy Grail. It would sure help me out with my H26. Thanks BrianW

 

[George]

Centerboard Replacement

Pat Adams use of jacks seemed to work for him, but I'm sure Dave has an opinion.

I know I'll have to do this someday and I'm looking for a solution myself.

 

[Rick Webb]

Cinder Blocks

I would not get under anything I did not want falling on my head only supported by cinder blocks.

How much clearance is needed to get the centerboard out?

What I have in mind fro mine is to:

1. raise the wheels as far up as I can (car ramps, jack stands, ? )

2. lower the tounge and support the stern on stands 4X4s and 2X6 contraption with carpeted pads of some sort

3. raise the bow with straps hung from an A frame. I think if I remove the guides on the trailer I could take the trailer out from under the boat altogether.

The question though is this all worth saving $300 or so to have it lifted at the yard?

 

[WTA]

Cinder Block Stands

I will be the first to admit that the cinder block base for the stands I used were definetly the weakest link in this equations. If I had access to some "real" boat stands I would most assuredly have used those instead. The cinder blocks were just an example of making do with what you have on hand. I was not worried of them tipping as I used a pyramid shape with two blocks for a base and a single top block centered over the base. A wood topper made out of a 2x10 was used on top of the block to distribute the weight of the RV stand across the entire cinder block.

I am not an engineer so I do not know what the actual stress test ratings are for the blocks but oriented in the correct direciton it has been my experience that they are actually pretty resilient to a constant downward force.

As for clearance, I was able to replace the centerboard line with a gap between the trailer bunks and hull just wide enough for my fist with my thumb up so say approximately 6" give or take.

 

[Tom2909]

WTA -- Thanks for sharing your experience. I need to replace my line and have a few questions, if you don't mind answering.

First, how much does the centerboard weigh?

Second, how difficult was it to get the thing aligned and raised back into position to get the retaining bolt started?

Thank you for any help.

Fair winds (and roads),
Tom

 

[jbmayer]

I did the same, but used 2 x 6's to build stands, then jacked the back up first, then the front. By removing the trailer wheels, I was able to lower the trailer enough to drop the board.

 

[jbmayer]

Twarneke: The board is heavy, but not so much you can't lift it. I would guess about 30-40 lbs or so. It is a two man job, with one in the boat and one below. You get the board lined up with the slot then using the line to guide the bracket back into position while you push it up then have the person in the boat secure the bolt. Make sure you use tape to secure the pin in place while you push it back up, and make sure you use 4200 sealant when you tighten the bolt. My line replacement took about a half hour, and the painting took about week with multiple coats and the prep work.

Jack

 

[WTA]

Tom,

First the centerboard probably weighs about 30 - 40 pounds as Jack mentioned. As far as lining it back up I highly recommend getting a threaded rod from Home Depot or Lowes. You can get one that is about 18 inches long and threads into the top of the centerboard bracket. I used it to line things up and then hoisted it into position using a peice of seatbelt straping running from the life line stanchion amid ship on the port side to the opposite life line stanchion on the starboard side. Once it was in position, I removed the threaded rod from inside the cabin of the boat and replaced it with the bolt and lots of sealant.

W.