I have a question about the centerboard on my H26 and I apologize if this has been addressed before. During my last cruse the line that attaches to the centerboard, which pulls the board up, broke. Actually the factory turning block on the deck blew apart (we maybe should talk about this) and left the line at a 90-degree turn against the fiberglass, which quickly sliced it in to. This all happened at 3:00 am as a front with 30 kt. winds was blowing through which left the center board grounded while we were on anchor. We quickly ran a line under the boat and pulled the centerboard up by hand, however, the board experienced some lateral force on bottom as the boat swung on the anchor. I have two questions, first how do you change the centerboard raising line, and can you do this on the trailer? And second, how, or is it possible to check how much side to side play there is in the centerboard? I am afraid sitting on bottom in the storm may have damaged the pivot bearings in the centerboard. Thanks for the help, Dean "Chateau de Vent"
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Steve
Need CB drop techneque ideas
I too have some of your concerns and questions, however my board is presently functional. Dropping out the CB looks like the only option, easy if clearance is gained..$$$ travel lift? (I'm looking for another option, prehaps done in the water with scuba??) DAVE, GIVE US A HAND ON THIS ONE, not everyone has a travel lift in their backyard (or can afford the yard time)! It was once brought to my attention that the H26 CB bracket my be a bit light in construction (SS 304),watch for rust and pitting in the welds, also the 3/4" bolt holding it in the trunk could be longer and a higher (316) SS grade. Addtionally the bearing in the board is a high grade plastic with a SS 304 rod, wear can occur, but rarely, but worth a check since your going to have to drop it to get the uphaul line reattched. Good luck, hopefully someone has been through this one by themselfs without the use of yard...and can give us all some guidance. Steve
I too have some of your concerns and questions, however my board is presently functional. Dropping out the CB looks like the only option, easy if clearance is gained..$$$ travel lift? (I'm looking for another option, prehaps done in the water with scuba??) DAVE, GIVE US A HAND ON THIS ONE, not everyone has a travel lift in their backyard (or can afford the yard time)! It was once brought to my attention that the H26 CB bracket my be a bit light in construction (SS 304),watch for rust and pitting in the welds, also the 3/4" bolt holding it in the trunk could be longer and a higher (316) SS grade. Addtionally the bearing in the board is a high grade plastic with a SS 304 rod, wear can occur, but rarely, but worth a check since your going to have to drop it to get the uphaul line reattched. Good luck, hopefully someone has been through this one by themselfs without the use of yard...and can give us all some guidance. Steve
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Leo Brown
C/B pin
I just purchased a '94 H26 and found excessive play in the C/B while the boat was on the trailer. I jacked the boat up fore and aft little by little, shimming as I went(1 1/2"). I removed the 3/4" bolt and the C/B and bracket came down. The Pin had slid out of one side of the bracket long ago based on how polished the low end was. The C/B has a nylon bushing and it was good. The C/B bracket is 3 1/4" wide thru the hole and the pin is exactly 3 1/4" long, the ends of the pin were beveled. I had both ends of the pin built up with weld and 1/8" additional length added, and I finished the ends flush. The additional length proved no hinderance to reinstalling(lowering the boat). On the trailer now there is minimal movement in the C/B. I wanted to keep jacking eventually get high enough to replace the uphaul. That would be way too high.
I just purchased a '94 H26 and found excessive play in the C/B while the boat was on the trailer. I jacked the boat up fore and aft little by little, shimming as I went(1 1/2"). I removed the 3/4" bolt and the C/B and bracket came down. The Pin had slid out of one side of the bracket long ago based on how polished the low end was. The C/B has a nylon bushing and it was good. The C/B bracket is 3 1/4" wide thru the hole and the pin is exactly 3 1/4" long, the ends of the pin were beveled. I had both ends of the pin built up with weld and 1/8" additional length added, and I finished the ends flush. The additional length proved no hinderance to reinstalling(lowering the boat). On the trailer now there is minimal movement in the C/B. I wanted to keep jacking eventually get high enough to replace the uphaul. That would be way too high.
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Terry
Us too
Dean, we also had the centerboard rope break. I don't believe that the rope can be fixed in any way other than going to a boatyard and hanging the boat from the straps of a crane. This happened early on in our ownership of the boat and our dealer covered the costs. It took a guy inside the hanging boat to unbolt it(LARGE breaker bar on the socket wrench), and two guys below to hold it and lower the centerboard to the ground. Same deal trying to put it back up(harder because of the aligning). While the thing was out, we were able to put some antifouling up in the channel. My humble advice is to bite the bullet and get it taken care of as soon as you can. I think, not sure, but think it ran around $300 or so. All labor and crane fees. I can't understand why a trailorable boat isn't made so that everything can be fixed on the trailer. A lot of folks trailer on lakes that don't have cranes - I was lucky and moored at a full service marina. By the way, be sure to reseal the cap over the centerboard below your cabin table or you'll have wet feet. I know someday that pulley of mine is going to pop off of the shifting pin - any ideas on that problem?
Dean, we also had the centerboard rope break. I don't believe that the rope can be fixed in any way other than going to a boatyard and hanging the boat from the straps of a crane. This happened early on in our ownership of the boat and our dealer covered the costs. It took a guy inside the hanging boat to unbolt it(LARGE breaker bar on the socket wrench), and two guys below to hold it and lower the centerboard to the ground. Same deal trying to put it back up(harder because of the aligning). While the thing was out, we were able to put some antifouling up in the channel. My humble advice is to bite the bullet and get it taken care of as soon as you can. I think, not sure, but think it ran around $300 or so. All labor and crane fees. I can't understand why a trailorable boat isn't made so that everything can be fixed on the trailer. A lot of folks trailer on lakes that don't have cranes - I was lucky and moored at a full service marina. By the way, be sure to reseal the cap over the centerboard below your cabin table or you'll have wet feet. I know someday that pulley of mine is going to pop off of the shifting pin - any ideas on that problem?
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Steve
Leo.. tell us more!!
Leo, I,m interested on how you jacked the boat. Did you simply place boards on the bunk until the height was reached or in another fashion? Was the pin welded at on time or is it loose by design? Steve
Leo, I,m interested on how you jacked the boat. Did you simply place boards on the bunk until the height was reached or in another fashion? Was the pin welded at on time or is it loose by design? Steve
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Dean Eiland
Thanks for the comments
Thanks for all the comments, they have been helpful. Terry, I should confess I was using a wench on the C/B line when the pulley popped out. I had seen that the pin and pulley were loose before we trailered to the water, however, I figured that if I kept some pressure on the line it would stay in place. In retrospect I wish I had put some silicone or something on the loose pin so it couldn't just pop out. I don't know if that would have helped, but it might have made me feel better today. I also don't know how the pin and pulley came out, but it must have shot 50 feet across the water. If you do loose the pulley protect the rope, the rope replacement is what is going to cost me the money. Thanks Leo for your comments also, I want to check my C/B for play.
Thanks for all the comments, they have been helpful. Terry, I should confess I was using a wench on the C/B line when the pulley popped out. I had seen that the pin and pulley were loose before we trailered to the water, however, I figured that if I kept some pressure on the line it would stay in place. In retrospect I wish I had put some silicone or something on the loose pin so it couldn't just pop out. I don't know if that would have helped, but it might have made me feel better today. I also don't know how the pin and pulley came out, but it must have shot 50 feet across the water. If you do loose the pulley protect the rope, the rope replacement is what is going to cost me the money. Thanks Leo for your comments also, I want to check my C/B for play.
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Dave Condon
lift
Dan, for safety of the boat and yourself you will need to have the boat lifted off the trailer to fix the line. There is no other way my friend. It may be costly but I will not recommend any other way. Fo r those who do not have a travel lift near by, go to a crane company and lift with wide straps. Make sure you have all tools plus the one to get the bolt off to release the centerboard housing. Dave Condon
Dan, for safety of the boat and yourself you will need to have the boat lifted off the trailer to fix the line. There is no other way my friend. It may be costly but I will not recommend any other way. Fo r those who do not have a travel lift near by, go to a crane company and lift with wide straps. Make sure you have all tools plus the one to get the bolt off to release the centerboard housing. Dave Condon
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Dick Leis
Line replacement
As an additional note to Dave's comments about having a boatyard lift the hull, I would highly recommend that anyone contemplating a yard doing a bottom job on any WB boat to also have the centerboard line replaced at the same time. I had this done on my 19 and the cost was very inexpensive when included with the bottom service.
As an additional note to Dave's comments about having a boatyard lift the hull, I would highly recommend that anyone contemplating a yard doing a bottom job on any WB boat to also have the centerboard line replaced at the same time. I had this done on my 19 and the cost was very inexpensive when included with the bottom service.
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