Has anyone with a seidelmann 34 (or 37) replaced the center salon hatch. Just wondering if you replaced in kind or used a different model and your experience on removing it. Mine is leaking some, arms corroded and just generally in need of replacement. If you replaced in kind - did you use the curved or flat hatch from Bomar (assume it's the flat cast series 100 (model C150----STD-B). I'm very interested in maybe using the ones from Mariner's Hardware but always liked the security of the double arms when the boat is bouncing and the support under the Lexan in case you step on it.
center hatch
- Thread starter Blitz
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Has anyone with a seidelmann 34 (or 37) replaced the center salon hatch. Just wondering if you replaced in kind or used a different model and your experience on removing it. Mine is leaking some, arms corroded and just generally in need of replacement. If you replaced in kind - did you use the curved or flat hatch from Bomar (assume it's the flat cast series 100 (model C150----STD-B). I'm very interested in maybe using the ones from Mariner's Hardware but always liked the security of the double arms when the boat is bouncing and the support under the Lexan in case you step on it.
34 Hatchs
Blitz; I have removed/reconditioned/rebedded both of my Bomar hatchs.I had to back fill the rotted core[balsa] at the main salon hatch and then reversed it and rebedded same.I reversed it so it can be opened now that I installed a vang.Bomar has all the new parts to recondition that model.New rubber gasket is a must!Mine no longer leak...thank the good Lord....and it was a fairly straight forward project.Once you have removed all the screws it is possible to run a putty knife around the lip to cut lose the old chaulk.There is a plastic trim ring on the inside.I saved them and since they were in decent shape,just cleaned them .Main salon hatch is smaller than the forward one.Clean the FRP well before rebedding with your favorite goo.Bomar has a good website and most everything needed to recondition their hatchs. REPLACEMENT: I would look to the exact cut out dimensions for anything you would buy.Larger would require some cutting of the deck.Too small....well, won't even go there.Hope this is a help. Cheers- CaptHawk ROGUEWAVE
Blitz; I have removed/reconditioned/rebedded both of my Bomar hatchs.I had to back fill the rotted core[balsa] at the main salon hatch and then reversed it and rebedded same.I reversed it so it can be opened now that I installed a vang.Bomar has all the new parts to recondition that model.New rubber gasket is a must!Mine no longer leak...thank the good Lord....and it was a fairly straight forward project.Once you have removed all the screws it is possible to run a putty knife around the lip to cut lose the old chaulk.There is a plastic trim ring on the inside.I saved them and since they were in decent shape,just cleaned them .Main salon hatch is smaller than the forward one.Clean the FRP well before rebedding with your favorite goo.Bomar has a good website and most everything needed to recondition their hatchs. REPLACEMENT: I would look to the exact cut out dimensions for anything you would buy.Larger would require some cutting of the deck.Too small....well, won't even go there.Hope this is a help. Cheers- CaptHawk ROGUEWAVE
Deck Hatch - Bomar
I have measured this opening numerous times and can't really figure out what model Bomar hatch I have. Capt Hawk - do you recall when you did your rebedding if it was the curved model (1/4" curve in the base for deck crown) or the flat model? I'm measuring a cut out opening of approx 20.375" square which doesn't really match the Bomar chart. Also, the existing hatch demensions of the part that protrudes through the deck is 19.625" X 20". Based on this I'm not sure if it's model C155----STD-B (for crowned deck), C139MED-STD-B or C150----STD-B. Seems like Seidelmann might have made cut-out larger than it needed to be if it is the flat model. Also, my existing hatch needs replacment since the bolts that hold the arms up are badly corroded to the point of breaking and only one of the two remain. It is so corroded I can't just tap it out and it would be better to replace the entine thing, especially since I need to rebed it anyway. Thanks for your help, Neal - 1984 Seidelmann 34 "Blitz"
I have measured this opening numerous times and can't really figure out what model Bomar hatch I have. Capt Hawk - do you recall when you did your rebedding if it was the curved model (1/4" curve in the base for deck crown) or the flat model? I'm measuring a cut out opening of approx 20.375" square which doesn't really match the Bomar chart. Also, the existing hatch demensions of the part that protrudes through the deck is 19.625" X 20". Based on this I'm not sure if it's model C155----STD-B (for crowned deck), C139MED-STD-B or C150----STD-B. Seems like Seidelmann might have made cut-out larger than it needed to be if it is the flat model. Also, my existing hatch needs replacment since the bolts that hold the arms up are badly corroded to the point of breaking and only one of the two remain. It is so corroded I can't just tap it out and it would be better to replace the entine thing, especially since I need to rebed it anyway. Thanks for your help, Neal - 1984 Seidelmann 34 "Blitz"
34 Main Salon Hatch
Neal; The center hatch is the flat one;150 std. by Bomar. Any low profile hatch of close to the same dims. should work.[some sand and fit/cut and fit may be required to get a new one to work.] The original hatch has a plastic trim ring on the inside of the 1" lip....so the deck was cut out slightly larger[1/8-1/4"] than the hatch to accomidate the trim ring.Hope this is a help? Cheers- CaptHawk RogueWave S-34
Neal; The center hatch is the flat one;150 std. by Bomar. Any low profile hatch of close to the same dims. should work.[some sand and fit/cut and fit may be required to get a new one to work.] The original hatch has a plastic trim ring on the inside of the 1" lip....so the deck was cut out slightly larger[1/8-1/4"] than the hatch to accomidate the trim ring.Hope this is a help? Cheers- CaptHawk RogueWave S-34
34 Main Salon Hatch
Neal; The center hatch is the flat one;150 std. by Bomar. Any low profile hatch of close to the same dims. should work.[some sand and fit/cut and fit may be required to get a new one to work.] The original hatch has a plastic trim ring on the inside of the 1" lip....so the deck was cut out slightly larger[1/8-1/4"] than the hatch to accomidate the trim ring.Hope this is a help? Cheers- CaptHawk RogueWave S-34
Neal; The center hatch is the flat one;150 std. by Bomar. Any low profile hatch of close to the same dims. should work.[some sand and fit/cut and fit may be required to get a new one to work.] The original hatch has a plastic trim ring on the inside of the 1" lip....so the deck was cut out slightly larger[1/8-1/4"] than the hatch to accomidate the trim ring.Hope this is a help? Cheers- CaptHawk RogueWave S-34
34 Main Salon Hatch
Neal; The center hatch is the flat one;150 std. by Bomar. Any low profile hatch of close to the same dims. should work.[some sand and fit/cut and fit may be required to get a new one to work.] The original hatch has a plastic trim ring on the inside of the 1" lip....so the deck was cut out slightly larger[1/8-1/4"] than the hatch to accomidate the trim ring.Hope this is a help? Cheers- CaptHawk RogueWave S-34
Neal; The center hatch is the flat one;150 std. by Bomar. Any low profile hatch of close to the same dims. should work.[some sand and fit/cut and fit may be required to get a new one to work.] The original hatch has a plastic trim ring on the inside of the 1" lip....so the deck was cut out slightly larger[1/8-1/4"] than the hatch to accomidate the trim ring.Hope this is a help? Cheers- CaptHawk RogueWave S-34
34 Main Salon Hatch
Neal; The center hatch is the flat one;150 std. by Bomar. Any low profile hatch of close to the same dims. should work.[some sand and fit/cut and fit may be required to get a new one to work.] The original hatch has a plastic trim ring on the inside of the 1" lip....so the deck was cut out slightly larger[1/8-1/4"] than the hatch to accomidate the trim ring.Hope this is a help? Cheers- CaptHawk RogueWave S-34
Neal; The center hatch is the flat one;150 std. by Bomar. Any low profile hatch of close to the same dims. should work.[some sand and fit/cut and fit may be required to get a new one to work.] The original hatch has a plastic trim ring on the inside of the 1" lip....so the deck was cut out slightly larger[1/8-1/4"] than the hatch to accomidate the trim ring.Hope this is a help? Cheers- CaptHawk RogueWave S-34
I have a 37
I have a 37, and I agree with Capt.Hawk. No need to replace, as it is fairly simple to rebuild, repair the existing hatch. All the parts and pieces are available from Bomar. This is on my to do list, as mine is leaking slightly at this time.
I have a 37, and I agree with Capt.Hawk. No need to replace, as it is fairly simple to rebuild, repair the existing hatch. All the parts and pieces are available from Bomar. This is on my to do list, as mine is leaking slightly at this time.
I have a 37
I have a 37, and I agree with Capt.Hawk. No need to replace, as it is fairly simple to rebuild, repair the existing hatch. All the parts and pieces are available from Bomar. This is on my to do list, as mine is leaking slightly at this time.
I have a 37, and I agree with Capt.Hawk. No need to replace, as it is fairly simple to rebuild, repair the existing hatch. All the parts and pieces are available from Bomar. This is on my to do list, as mine is leaking slightly at this time.
Center hatch follow-up
Thanks to all, mine is all messed up due to corrosion, previous leaks and a bad fix of the riser arm attaching to the frame. Bolt broke off in the frame, dis-similar metals, etc. I think if I would do it all over I would completely tear it apart more often to clean and use spray lube to lesson the corrosion. Maybe a picture of the mess would help in the future.
Thanks to all, mine is all messed up due to corrosion, previous leaks and a bad fix of the riser arm attaching to the frame. Bolt broke off in the frame, dis-similar metals, etc. I think if I would do it all over I would completely tear it apart more often to clean and use spray lube to lesson the corrosion. Maybe a picture of the mess would help in the future.
Center hatch follow-up
Thanks to all, mine is all messed up due to corrosion, previous leaks and a bad fix of the riser arm attaching to the frame. Bolt broke off in the frame, dis-similar metals, etc. I think if I would do it all over I would completely tear it apart more often to clean and use spray lube to lesson the corrosion. Maybe a picture of the mess would help in the future.
Thanks to all, mine is all messed up due to corrosion, previous leaks and a bad fix of the riser arm attaching to the frame. Bolt broke off in the frame, dis-similar metals, etc. I think if I would do it all over I would completely tear it apart more often to clean and use spray lube to lesson the corrosion. Maybe a picture of the mess would help in the future.
Less Expensive Bomar Parts
Pompanette, the Bomar distributor, IS full retail in their pricing;however, if you look in your West Marine catalog they have some Bomar spare parts for a little better price.[emphasis on little].Welcome to yachting 2007...."If it floats or flys, it WILL be expensive!" CaptHawk RogueWave
Pompanette, the Bomar distributor, IS full retail in their pricing;however, if you look in your West Marine catalog they have some Bomar spare parts for a little better price.[emphasis on little].Welcome to yachting 2007...."If it floats or flys, it WILL be expensive!" CaptHawk RogueWave
Less Expensive Bomar Parts
Pompanette, the Bomar distributor, IS full retail in their pricing;however, if you look in your West Marine catalog they have some Bomar spare parts for a little better price.[emphasis on little].Welcome to yachting 2007...."If it floats or flys, it WILL be expensive!" CaptHawk RogueWave
Pompanette, the Bomar distributor, IS full retail in their pricing;however, if you look in your West Marine catalog they have some Bomar spare parts for a little better price.[emphasis on little].Welcome to yachting 2007...."If it floats or flys, it WILL be expensive!" CaptHawk RogueWave
Less Expensive Bomar Parts
Pompanette, the Bomar distributor, IS full retail in their pricing;however, if you look in your West Marine catalog they have some Bomar spare parts for a little better price.[emphasis on little].Welcome to yachting 2007...."If it floats or flys, it WILL be expensive!" CaptHawk RogueWave
Pompanette, the Bomar distributor, IS full retail in their pricing;however, if you look in your West Marine catalog they have some Bomar spare parts for a little better price.[emphasis on little].Welcome to yachting 2007...."If it floats or flys, it WILL be expensive!" CaptHawk RogueWave
Less Expensive Bomar Parts
Pompanette, the Bomar distributor, IS full retail in their pricing;however, if you look in your West Marine catalog they have some Bomar spare parts for a little better price.[emphasis on little].Welcome to yachting 2007...."If it floats or flys, it WILL be expensive!" CaptHawk RogueWave
Pompanette, the Bomar distributor, IS full retail in their pricing;however, if you look in your West Marine catalog they have some Bomar spare parts for a little better price.[emphasis on little].Welcome to yachting 2007...."If it floats or flys, it WILL be expensive!" CaptHawk RogueWave
Hatch confusion
I went down to the boat yesterday and uncovered it to remeasure the hatch. The existing hatch lid measures 22" square and the deck flange measured about 22.5" so I either have model C150----STD-B, or C155----STD-B (curved deck). The other models shown IO or DO I assume stands for inside/outside opening and Double opening respectively. If I get the curved one and the deck has any curvature I'm in trouble. Rather not re-cut the deck.
I went down to the boat yesterday and uncovered it to remeasure the hatch. The existing hatch lid measures 22" square and the deck flange measured about 22.5" so I either have model C150----STD-B, or C155----STD-B (curved deck). The other models shown IO or DO I assume stands for inside/outside opening and Double opening respectively. If I get the curved one and the deck has any curvature I'm in trouble. Rather not re-cut the deck.
Hatch confusion
I went down to the boat yesterday and uncovered it to remeasure the hatch. The existing hatch lid measures 22" square and the deck flange measured about 22.5" so I either have model C150----STD-B, or C155----STD-B (curved deck). The other models shown IO or DO I assume stands for inside/outside opening and Double opening respectively. If I get the curved one and the deck has any curvature I'm in trouble. Rather not re-cut the deck.
I went down to the boat yesterday and uncovered it to remeasure the hatch. The existing hatch lid measures 22" square and the deck flange measured about 22.5" so I either have model C150----STD-B, or C155----STD-B (curved deck). The other models shown IO or DO I assume stands for inside/outside opening and Double opening respectively. If I get the curved one and the deck has any curvature I'm in trouble. Rather not re-cut the deck.
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