just got a hunter 19 and dont see the center board pivot bolt for removal. anyone how to get the board out? thanks bk
center board removal
- Thread starter bk5760
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Here's how to drop the board on a 26 and a 23.5. I am not the author but the suggestions worked perfectly for me and my 23.5. On my boat there is a cap just aft of the mast compression post. Lift that cap to reveal the bolt which secures a stainless "cassette" containing the centerboard pivot axle as well as the axles and sheaves for the board control line. Undo that bolt to drop out the board and the entire assembly. Note the suggestion about having a threaded rod to help the removal and the reinstallation.bk5760 said:
Perhaps your 19 is similar:
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Hunter Modification Index | Hunter 260 Index
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Centerboard Line Replacement and Leaks
Author: Pat Adam
The centerboards for the H26 and the H260 are similar.
Here is the procedure I used to replace my H26 CB line. Please note that I also removed the compression post (discussed in separate article)WHICH IS NOT NECESSARY if you only want to change the CB line.
I removed the compression post to make a more permanent water seal repair between top of CB trunk and bottom of compression post plate as well as top of post where it goes through the deck. I had to remove the compression post because leaks often come from a bad seal between the stainless plate where the large bolt for the CB is and the top of the CB well/trunk. You can easily verify this by having someone watch this area while you motor the boat into some small waves (it won't leak when boat is stopped since water needs to be forced up the CB well). If there's a bad seal, you will see water coming through around the plate.
There are 2 ways to fix this.
A. You can make sure all screws and bolts are tight and then very liberally spread some 3M 4200 or other marine sealant around the plate and over the screws as well as the space where the compression post enters the bottom plate and the 2 retaining screws on each side. This will give you a temporary fix which should last a season or 2.
B. A better fix is to do what I did and remove the bottom plate altogether. You'll then need to scrape and remove all sealant in this area so that you have clean fiberglass/resin surface. Then, apply liberal amounts of 3M 5200 on the surface just cleaned and replace the bottom plate making sure it is well pressed down and bolted securely.
To replace the CB line:
1. Have boat lifted and blocked. You MUST lift the boat @ 4feet min and have it securely blocked to proceed with this repair!!! Tie a small line to the top (deck side) end of your CB line. This is so you can pull the new one back through.
2. Drop CB so that it touches the ground. Unscrew the large retaining bolt on the plate located on the top of the CB well directly under the cabin table. This will drop your CB from underneath and will give you access to the CB line. Make sure there is someone underneath to catch the CB.
Untie the CB line from the CB and attach your new one (which should be a very low stretch, high breaking strength line. The manual calls for 7/16" and 11' long). Pull the new one back through using the small messenger line you tied to the old one.
3. Now comes the tricky part. You will need the help of another person for this step. While one person lifts and wiggles the board side to side the other will need to pull straight down at the bracket location. I found it easier to use a large flat head screw driver, inserted in the recess between hull and nylon slides and gently pry as the CB is moved side to side. It is held in the trunk quite tightly, but will eventually drop down. Be careful as the board is quite heavy. Once dropped it will look similar to picture below.
4. Once dropped, the bracket will want to rotate horizontally. This is OK. There is no need to completely remove the bracket unless you intend on doing further work/inspection on the CB. If you do remove it, make sure you note the various parts and where they install and in which direction. Mark them if you have to. The CB line roller goes forward.
5. At this point you will have a clear view of the CB line. It is simply held by a knot in the line which you will need to undo or cut off. My boat calls for 7/16 Double Braid Yacht Line. I replaced mine with West Marine Staset double braid. This portion of the line is listed at 11 feet, but I bought more than twice that much to have enough to bring it all the way out to my winch after going through the 2:1 system.
6. To replace the line WITHOUT removing the compression post, simply tape the new one to the old and gently pull it through the assembly until it comes out on the top deck. Make sure you put a tight knot in it after feeding it through the hole in the CB.
7. Before re-inserting the bracket assembly in to the CB trunk, make sure to place tape over the pivot pins to prevent them from falling out while re-assembling. Lift bracket up to vertical position and insert into grooves in CB trunk. Push up on CB/bracket as far as possible. Re-attach bracket holdown bolt making sure not to cross thread. Tighten securely until no more pull can be felt in CB bracket. The bolt will lift the bracket assembly back in place as it is tightened.
[Tip: Buy a 12" long threaded rod that will thread into the centerboard bracket. You can get one at any home improvement store. Thread the rod into the bolt hole just before you go to reinstall the centerboard assembly. Putting the rod through the hole in the hull helps to align the bracket with the hole. Once the bracket is up in place, your helper just removes the rod while you keep pressure on the entire assembly from the underside. The hole is perfectly aligned and there is no issue with having to waste time trying to align the hole for your assistant to get the bolt in. Run a little bead of 5200 around the underside of the bolt head and tighten it down.]
Run line through 2:1 block system and test to make sure all is well prior to dropping boat down. Total time for this procedure is @ 1hr not including boat lifting process.
Good Luck!
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Not my work product, but I found this very helpful
Kind regards
Hugh
Assuming that you have the water ballast version and not the early 80's version which is a much different boat, it is the same prodcedure as the 23.5, 240, 26 and 260. You will go inside and see the compression post. There should be a cover plate arount the compression post either 1 or two piece either screwed down or caulked down. Remove that plate. You will see a stainless steel plate and then a large bolt hopefully with some caulk around the head of the bolt. Remove the caulk and take the bolt off.
You will have to go underneath the boat and drop the whole centerboard and assembly out. If it will not come out, wiggle it back and forth. It will drop out. Before you do this, attache a tracer line to the center board line going thru the boat.
You willl see two large SS pins held in place with duck tape if it is still there. When you put the assembly back, make sure you use a little duck tape to keep those pins from coming out. I would also use 4200 on top of the centerboard housing so there is a seal around it so water cannot come up inside. Do not use 5200 in that applicationl.
If it is for replacing the line, use 7/16. Under no circumstances use 1/2 inch line or you will be sorry. The tracer line is attached to your c enterboard line to make it easy to pull back up thru.
If there is a leake between the plate inside and the fiberglass housing, a simple fix is in order if minor vs. taking the whole plate out.
Make sure to thread the bolt on correctly and if an issue going on, make sure no old caulk is on the threads.
If the centerboard is broken, replacement can be had from Foss Faom, Bob Walker, in Florida.
Make sure on the compression post near the plate say about two inches up, if there are any holes, put #10 bolts in and caulk. There are two one easy to get to and the other forward which is a pain in the butt to get to but check it.
Any other questions, email me at davecondon@mindspring.com
You will have to go underneath the boat and drop the whole centerboard and assembly out. If it will not come out, wiggle it back and forth. It will drop out. Before you do this, attache a tracer line to the center board line going thru the boat.
You willl see two large SS pins held in place with duck tape if it is still there. When you put the assembly back, make sure you use a little duck tape to keep those pins from coming out. I would also use 4200 on top of the centerboard housing so there is a seal around it so water cannot come up inside. Do not use 5200 in that applicationl.
If it is for replacing the line, use 7/16. Under no circumstances use 1/2 inch line or you will be sorry. The tracer line is attached to your c enterboard line to make it easy to pull back up thru.
If there is a leake between the plate inside and the fiberglass housing, a simple fix is in order if minor vs. taking the whole plate out.
Make sure to thread the bolt on correctly and if an issue going on, make sure no old caulk is on the threads.
If the centerboard is broken, replacement can be had from Foss Faom, Bob Walker, in Florida.
Make sure on the compression post near the plate say about two inches up, if there are any holes, put #10 bolts in and caulk. There are two one easy to get to and the other forward which is a pain in the butt to get to but check it.
Any other questions, email me at davecondon@mindspring.com
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