Ceiling Light Wiring

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Ric

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Apr 1, 2009
36
2 42mkII Lake Texoma
Has anyone rewired their Vega, particularly a Series two? I was able to pull new wire from the main cabin port side ceiling light fixture, through the hole that runs through the ceiling to the starboard side fixture. The old wire I replaced connected to the power source wire on the starboard side. The question I have is where does that power source wire run to? Does it go back to the switch next to the companion way entrance or someplace else? That power source wire doesn't seem to move at all, so I don't know if I will be able to replace it like I did the other wire. I'm hoping I can so I can keep the ceiling nicely finished.
Thanks,

Ric
s/v Blue Max
#2692
 
P

pjacobs55

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Oct 30, 2019
1,459
Hi Ric,
My thoughts on wiring: The overhead cabin lights are a constant source of head-bumping for me and, personally, I'd scrap them. On an upcoming re-wire my idea is to run all the wiring along the underside of the gunwale, behind the plywood valance that covers the hull-deck joint.

This valance (on my boat, anyway) is screwed to wood blocks which are glued to the underside of the hull-deck flange. I'd change this support system to a few aluminum angle brackets attached to several of the hull-deck bolts, using an extra nut and washer. This would leave a clear wiring passage all the way to the forward cabin. I plan to put a row of LED's under the valence to illuminate the cabin from either side, instead of from overhead. As the rest of my lights are LED's there's very little current draw, and so a smaller gauge wire can be used.

Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'
 
G

graceglenda1

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Aug 16, 2011
35
Hi Ric ...

Rewired this last Winter ... similar to Peter's idea - however, installed new Blue Sea Systems panels ( both shore and 12v power ) tucked above the engine box (beneath the cabin hatch foot) ... and made the cable runs beneath the Port and Stbd. main cabin bunk shelves thru the cabinets ... protected the cables along the aft side of the engine room bulkhead by running thru flexible conduit. Also scrapped the idea of utilizing the overhead cabin lights in favor of installing a flexible chart light above the galley cabinet (use for cooking - "chart" table - or adjust over bunk). Also ran to new terminal blocks in the head overhead similar to original. Used Ancor tinned wire as well throughout. Also, 110 shore power outlets in the galley, one each in the shelves above the cabin bunks, and one in the forward port locker. Best regards,
Tom
#1690 Griffin
 
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graceglenda1

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Aug 16, 2011
35
Peter ... Quick question: I seemed to have confused myself regarding the shorepower 110v ground on the boat ... the diagram from Blue Sea systems doesn't indicate an additional ground from the panel to, say, the engine ... but other sources say to do so. Any recommendations ... haven't installed or used until I understand what's correct ... was going to call Blue Seas directly to understand their directions. Regards and enjoy the great weather we're having!!
Tom
V1690 Griffin
 
P

pjacobs55

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Oct 30, 2019
1,459
Sorry Tom ... Can't help with that one as my shore power consists of a cable dangled through the companionway when needed!

Gut feeling says to me that 110 volt ac and 12 volt dc should be kept in complete isolation from each other. Anyway, here's a good article from guru Don Casey that may help:
www.boatus.com

BoatUS Expert Advice

BoatUS Magazine, the largest boating magazine in the US, provides boating skills, DIY maintenance, safety and news from top experts.
www.boatus.com www.boatus.com
Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'
 
E

emmajen5

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Feb 28, 2006
127
If you haven't done so already, you should download the Vega Handbook
from the file section of this group. There's a lot very useful and
interesting reading there, including information about the original
electrical system.

Garry
V. 2427
 
N

n6ric

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Mar 19, 2010
208
Peter,
I'm replacing everything with new LED lights and I found some dome lights from Dr. LED that are about the same size as the originals. They have both red and white LEDs in them and put out a considerable amount of light. I hadn't thought about the bumping your head thing (I'm 6'2" and always in a crouch when not sitting).

I don't have the wooden blocks in the way like you had so running the wire behind the trim is not a problem (I brought my running lights back that way) and I found some powerful strip LEDs that would work as you mentioned. I would just be worried about not having any overhead light. I just bought the domes this weekend and they're still in the boxes so I can take them back.

What I was thinking of doing with the strip lights was to run a piece of trim on the inside the full length of the cabin roof and hold it in place with the bolts from my external handrails. I was planning on incorporating that trim into my inner handrails and putting the LED lights in between the hand holds. I could then cut a trough in the back side of the trim to hid the wires. I'm still playing with the ideas on which way to go, but am about ready to repaint the ceiling so I need to make up my mind on which way to go soon.

The great thing about this forum is the wealth of ideas. Thanks for everyone's input. BTW there's an article in the latest Good Old Boat on a Albin Ballad

Ric
s/v Blue Max
#2692
 
K

kbobsky

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May 12, 2009
57
Hi Peter!
Do you use that cable to charge your batteries? I'm in a similar situation where I use a cable and a fault current protector to bring in shorepower and I'm considering hooking up a ladac handy 70 charger to the batteries. As you mentioned, it's best to keep AC and DC circuits separated, which I guess would mean disconnecting the batteries from the dc system while charging them from shorepower(?)

Cheers,
Mikko
 
S

SVFlyAway

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Oct 31, 2019
303
You don't have to disconnect your batteries. What it means is that the two
panels are separated and not right together so basically there can't be any
cross connection of the wiring which could really mess things up possibly
(120 or 240 going through an instrument bank wouldn't be good!)

As for grounding to the engine, well that is a long answer and I will be
brief. There are two schools of thought. One to ground and, obviously no to
ground. Grounding is basically for your protection, the ABYC requires
grounding in their training. Also it is recommended that all metal
through-hulls be connected to the ground. But then that can cause other
problems.

Note that grounding to an engine may not really ground you. Engines are
often insulated from the water by either a rubber coupler or even the
transmission oil. So going to the block might not do that much. Many folks
put a brush on their shafts and ground to that. In my big boat I installed a
large bronze plate outside the hull to ground to.

If you do ground, you run the risk of damage from stray currents or other
boats, or the marina, with bad wiring. I always use a galvanic isolator
between my boat and the ground. You can also use an isolation transformer,
but they are really heavy and expensive -- way to big for a Vega. The
isolator does reduce the risk of stray current damage from electrolysis
(this is different from galvanic corrosion).
 
P

pjacobs55

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Oct 30, 2019
1,459
Hi Mikko,
I use solar panels to keep my batteries charged and have a small portable inverter for any 110 volt applications. I have to motor for 20 minutes going in and out of my slip, so that also helps keep things topped up. My biggest power user is my laptop charger! (no refrigeration, ac, etc.)
Peter.
 
T

tiempo2010

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Sep 24, 2008
346
No, you can keep the batteries connected to the DC system while charging. AC
wiring should not be run very near DC wiring if possible and the AC and DC
panels should be separate.
 
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