What is the correct way to attach a CDI Roller Furler to the mast? My dealer installed mine using a small line (6" long) from the end of the furler to the mast. Is this right? It seems like it would be too much of a load for such a small line (1/8"). Also, how do I tension the luff? Do I have to keep raising and lowering the mast until I get the length of the line correct? What am I missing? Why not attach the roller furler directly to the mast and install a small turnbuckle between the roller drum and bow plate. This way I can tension the luff as needed. Would the jib sit to high? Is that even a problem? This is my first time putting eveything back together from winter storage. Thanks for the help, John
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chris boyle
just did one...
i just installed a cdi furler on my 1987 23. if i understand you correctly, a 1/8 line is all that was used at the mast. does that mean the luff extrusion was not run up the forestay? the way i did it, the forestay fits inside the luff extrusion and runs down to a turnbuckle inside the roller spindle. the turnbuckle attaches to a linkplate (because the 23 deck connection sits in the anchor well), which joins the bow fitting. the luff is tensioned by a "luff tensioner line (the 1/8 line supplied by cdi) between the tack of the sail and the top of the furler spindle. since i haven't actually used mine yet, all of the previous may turn out to be gibberish...good luck
i just installed a cdi furler on my 1987 23. if i understand you correctly, a 1/8 line is all that was used at the mast. does that mean the luff extrusion was not run up the forestay? the way i did it, the forestay fits inside the luff extrusion and runs down to a turnbuckle inside the roller spindle. the turnbuckle attaches to a linkplate (because the 23 deck connection sits in the anchor well), which joins the bow fitting. the luff is tensioned by a "luff tensioner line (the 1/8 line supplied by cdi) between the tack of the sail and the top of the furler spindle. since i haven't actually used mine yet, all of the previous may turn out to be gibberish...good luck
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Ron Mehringer
Don't sail that boat!
Danger Will Robinson! Danger! There is no way the furler should be attached to the mast with a line. As Chris mentioned, the forestay is fitted inside the luff extrusion and tension is adjusted with the turnbuckle at the bottom of the forestay, which is inside the drum of the roller furler. I'm not sure about the 240, but on a 26, special link plates must be attached to the bottom of the drum so that the system can attach to the padeye on the bow and not rub on the deck (padeye is located lower than the deck surface). My boat came used w/o the CDI owners manual, the captain of Gravy Boat made a copy of his manual for me. If you'd like me to mail or fax you a copy, please email me at rmerh@att.net or let me know via this message board. You better have a long talk with the dealer if he actually did what said. Peace s/v Hydro-Therapy
Danger Will Robinson! Danger! There is no way the furler should be attached to the mast with a line. As Chris mentioned, the forestay is fitted inside the luff extrusion and tension is adjusted with the turnbuckle at the bottom of the forestay, which is inside the drum of the roller furler. I'm not sure about the 240, but on a 26, special link plates must be attached to the bottom of the drum so that the system can attach to the padeye on the bow and not rub on the deck (padeye is located lower than the deck surface). My boat came used w/o the CDI owners manual, the captain of Gravy Boat made a copy of his manual for me. If you'd like me to mail or fax you a copy, please email me at rmerh@att.net or let me know via this message board. You better have a long talk with the dealer if he actually did what said. Peace s/v Hydro-Therapy
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Dave Condon
CDI
Your furler is a simple system that is light weight and can bend without damaging it. Every kit has an owner's manual which your dealer should give to you. If not, Call CDI and they will send you one. You will notice the extrusion with with a black cap on top. This unit has it's own internal halyard which your jib is attached to and raised. There is a small line attached to the clew or the bottom of the sail to the bottom furling drum. the higher the sail is off the deck, the better as it will not interfere with the bow pulpit. To adjust the tension, first make sure the sail is up all the way. Secondly, pull down with the downhaul or the line at the bottom of the sail. When you start to see waves along the luff or front leading edge of the sail, stop. Generally, that is a good place for adjustment of the sail. Crazy Dave.
Your furler is a simple system that is light weight and can bend without damaging it. Every kit has an owner's manual which your dealer should give to you. If not, Call CDI and they will send you one. You will notice the extrusion with with a black cap on top. This unit has it's own internal halyard which your jib is attached to and raised. There is a small line attached to the clew or the bottom of the sail to the bottom furling drum. the higher the sail is off the deck, the better as it will not interfere with the bow pulpit. To adjust the tension, first make sure the sail is up all the way. Secondly, pull down with the downhaul or the line at the bottom of the sail. When you start to see waves along the luff or front leading edge of the sail, stop. Generally, that is a good place for adjustment of the sail. Crazy Dave.
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Mark Kissel
STOP!
DO NOT RAISE the mast on this boat until you have a forestay installed! I'm very puzzled by your post. Is your mast already up and what you see coming from the top of the furler looks like a line? Maybe it's the forestay? If you (or others) have removed the jib from the luff track, you will need to tie a messenger line to the bitter end of the CDI's internal halyard before you raise the mast. You can adjust the jib until the bottom of the luff rope (at the foot of the sail) is just a couple of inches above the feed slot opening on the luff track and tie off the halyard to the forward eye on the drum (the side opposite the sail slot opening). Use the downhaul for proper luff tension and secure to the other eye on the drum. Mark Kissel Kittiwake/98H240
DO NOT RAISE the mast on this boat until you have a forestay installed! I'm very puzzled by your post. Is your mast already up and what you see coming from the top of the furler looks like a line? Maybe it's the forestay? If you (or others) have removed the jib from the luff track, you will need to tie a messenger line to the bitter end of the CDI's internal halyard before you raise the mast. You can adjust the jib until the bottom of the luff rope (at the foot of the sail) is just a couple of inches above the feed slot opening on the luff track and tie off the halyard to the forward eye on the drum (the side opposite the sail slot opening). Use the downhaul for proper luff tension and secure to the other eye on the drum. Mark Kissel Kittiwake/98H240
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Mark Cooper
More about the jib
I've been following this thread and have another question about it- actually two questions. I have a new 240 myself. First, you all speak of a "downhaul". I don't have one on my jib. The tack of the jib is hooked directly to the rear eye of the CDI. The jib does not go all the way to the top of the mast, but stops about a foot short. Naturally, this causes the foot of the sail to bend up over the pulpit- which is my second question. I was told this is normal; but now I'm not sure. Is there supposed to be a line running from the tack eye of the sail to the eye of the CDI?
I've been following this thread and have another question about it- actually two questions. I have a new 240 myself. First, you all speak of a "downhaul". I don't have one on my jib. The tack of the jib is hooked directly to the rear eye of the CDI. The jib does not go all the way to the top of the mast, but stops about a foot short. Naturally, this causes the foot of the sail to bend up over the pulpit- which is my second question. I was told this is normal; but now I'm not sure. Is there supposed to be a line running from the tack eye of the sail to the eye of the CDI?
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Ron Mehringer
Mark...
If your jib isn't all the way up in the luff track, and you want it to be, then just: disconnect the tack, uphaul to the top, tie off the uphaul, run a few loops of a small line between the tack and drum and downhaul with that. Hope that helps. s/v Hydro-Therapy
If your jib isn't all the way up in the luff track, and you want it to be, then just: disconnect the tack, uphaul to the top, tie off the uphaul, run a few loops of a small line between the tack and drum and downhaul with that. Hope that helps. s/v Hydro-Therapy
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