We just had a new CDI FULLER installed with new sail...it unfurl the jib with ease, but reeling it in is a real struggle..any suggestions would be appreciated
CDI Jib Fuller Problem
- Thread starter dkyvars
- Start date
Got to make sure there is NO wind in the sail. You need to be heading dead into the wind. Is your furling line routed correctly? Nice a smooth?
Just curious if you changed the fore-stay from the factory stock fore-stay?
Don
Just curious if you changed the fore-stay from the factory stock fore-stay?
Don
Cdi Furler
We were dead into the wind. Furling line is fed through fairleads to cockpit and is a straight run..am not sure what you mean about routing
Sounds like the furling line through the fairleads "routing" isn't the problem..... And the furling line is not rubbing on the stainless steel housing? It should be positioned in the center of the opening,(it's adjustable from below). Is the big stainless steel washer,(which serves as the bearing surface), installed? One reason I questioned the fore-stay is that I've had several boats now that didn't have the toggle installed on the top of the fore-stay,(as recommented by CDI), and the fore-stay had a kink, which caused friction for the plastic luff extrusion to bind as it tries to revolve around the forestay. Most folks don't understand the importance of the toggle, and don't want to have a new forestay fabricated when they have a perfectly good stock forestay from the factory. Is the plastic luff extrusion is perfectly straight? It easily bends and doesn't take long to develope a memory of the bend, which I've never been able to remove, even after sitting on a level surface in the hot California sun for months. The bend that the factory causes when they roll the extrusion will fall out after several days to a week in the sun. Which brings up the point, you said you recently installed it, would the extrusion lay perfectly flat on the driveway before it was installed, or was it un-rolled and slid on the forestay? Any bend will cause friction to bind the plastic luff extrusion on the forestay. I recently had one boat I refurbished that this binding was so severe that it twisted the forestay cable so bad it broke 6 of the 19 strands,(another reason there needs to be a toggle on the top end of the forestay). Don't forget, there is a lot more leverage un-furling, plus the wind to help you. Hope that helps.
Don
Don
I see your in AZ and also sail in Mexico? Is the boat trailered with the furled sail stored on the mast? Or is the boat kept rigged all the time? The reason I ask is that I had a boat from PHX and two from Southern California that had CDI furlers and were trailered. The owners just strapped the furled headsail to the mast, which quickly ruined the CDI luff extrusions in the heat from not being properly supported. My friend in PHX also had the same issue with the CDI furler on his Capri-18.
Don
Don
Trailered with the CDI on the mast, when in AZ.
I take good care that that doesn't happen.
The luff was unrolled ad per instructions, laid flat in the sun and was straight when jib was inserted. We did not do the installation...Furling line is not rubbing...the fair lead was installed at a 90 degree angle as described in instructions...It just will not rotate to retract without extreme effort..when jib is fully open, is there supposed to be a certain number of turns left on the furler drum. or is it supposed to be at the very end of the line?
When the jib is fully closed, there should be a couple/few turns left on the drum, per the manual. Sometimes there are more, sometimes less, depending on how loosely or tightly the jib gets rolled up.
Got photos?
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The boat is out at its mooring, so no photos with this post..but will follow up with some. If there are no turns left on the drum when jib is fully open, can you add some?
When the jib is fully "open", the drum will be full.
You'll need to fully close the jib, meaning "furl" the sail. When it's "open", that would be referred to as "unfurled".
After you furl (close) the sail, you can then install the control line with just a couple turns around the drum. You may have to wait for a light-wind day.
Do you have a UV protective strip sewn onto one side of the sail's leech and foot? That will determine which direction your furler should rotate to the furled state.
Attached photo is of an "unfurled" jib.
You'll need to fully close the jib, meaning "furl" the sail. When it's "open", that would be referred to as "unfurled".
After you furl (close) the sail, you can then install the control line with just a couple turns around the drum. You may have to wait for a light-wind day.
Do you have a UV protective strip sewn onto one side of the sail's leech and foot? That will determine which direction your furler should rotate to the furled state.
Attached photo is of an "unfurled" jib.
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Thanks for all the advice...will check the leech & foot...will let you know when I get it working.
just did it too
I just installed the CDI furler on my Catalina 27. it's a lot more "cumbersome" and difficult to install than I would have thought. Of course, my mast was "up" when I did it.
One thought, be sure that the foil extrusion is lifted up and is resting on the "pin" properly. If not, it will cause a lot of drag.
If you could post a picture of your bow area showing how everything is laid out and where the furling line is . . . that would be great. Actually, post a couple pictures - one with the sail furled (rolled up) and one with the sail fully extended.
Also, did you order the ball bearing version, or are you using the slippery thrust washer?
~markb
I just installed the CDI furler on my Catalina 27. it's a lot more "cumbersome" and difficult to install than I would have thought. Of course, my mast was "up" when I did it.
One thought, be sure that the foil extrusion is lifted up and is resting on the "pin" properly. If not, it will cause a lot of drag.
If you could post a picture of your bow area showing how everything is laid out and where the furling line is . . . that would be great. Actually, post a couple pictures - one with the sail furled (rolled up) and one with the sail fully extended.
Also, did you order the ball bearing version, or are you using the slippery thrust washer?
~markb
I think we have figured out the problem...the marina that installed the furler did not do it correctly. We furled the sail by hand, with sun screen strip to the outside...undid the drum,....rethreaded the line....it made a huge difference. I'll post photos the next time we are aboard. ..
That's the reason I feel I have to do everything myself. At least it was an easy fix, eh?
Have fun!