Friend of mine wants to replace his furler and has been thinking of the CDI F9. The rigging company he plans to use has discouraged him about this product, stating "you get what you pay for" indicating that CDI does not make a quality product. They also stated that it takes a lot of hours to install as they have to lay out the plastic foil to get the "set" out it from being curled in shipment. Anyone out there with a CDI furler care to comment on the quality of this product and its ease, or lack of thereof, of installation?
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I installed a CDI furler
Although it was smaller than the furler you asked about, my son and I installed a CDI furler on my last boat (a 22' Gloucester). It was pretty easy considering we had never installed any furler before. I spent a few hours "studying" the instructions, triple checking forestay measurements and dry fitting everything before cutting the foil (with a hand hacksaw). The actual installation took the two of us about an hour. As far as getting the curves out (due to the way the foil is rolled up for shipping) we simply followed the instructions and loosely rolled it in the opposite direction, taped it in place on the ground and let the warm weather take the curves out. It takes several people to roll it backwards because it does not want to cooperate very well. Once installed, the furler performed well.
Although it was smaller than the furler you asked about, my son and I installed a CDI furler on my last boat (a 22' Gloucester). It was pretty easy considering we had never installed any furler before. I spent a few hours "studying" the instructions, triple checking forestay measurements and dry fitting everything before cutting the foil (with a hand hacksaw). The actual installation took the two of us about an hour. As far as getting the curves out (due to the way the foil is rolled up for shipping) we simply followed the instructions and loosely rolled it in the opposite direction, taped it in place on the ground and let the warm weather take the curves out. It takes several people to roll it backwards because it does not want to cooperate very well. Once installed, the furler performed well.
Installed CDI FF6 on m;y H27
I installed the CDI on my Hunter 27 about 3 years ago and was surprised at how easy it was to install. It is a 1 man job except for getting the foil straight. To straighten the foil I drove about 8 stakes ( 2X4's cut ~ 30" long) in a circle whose circumference was about 4-6' less than the length of the foil. Then I wrapped the foil around the stakes and held it in place with few pieces of line tied to the stakes. This way I was able to do it by myself. Your friends install might require two people because of the increased weight of the FF9 -bigger boat. It is very simply made with little to go wrong with it. Mine has worked great from the beginning, wish I had done it long ago. Quality looks to be good but time will tell. Bill
I installed the CDI on my Hunter 27 about 3 years ago and was surprised at how easy it was to install. It is a 1 man job except for getting the foil straight. To straighten the foil I drove about 8 stakes ( 2X4's cut ~ 30" long) in a circle whose circumference was about 4-6' less than the length of the foil. Then I wrapped the foil around the stakes and held it in place with few pieces of line tied to the stakes. This way I was able to do it by myself. Your friends install might require two people because of the increased weight of the FF9 -bigger boat. It is very simply made with little to go wrong with it. Mine has worked great from the beginning, wish I had done it long ago. Quality looks to be good but time will tell. Bill
No problems with FF2
I installed the FF2 on my 222 at the beginning of last season, and it worked great. The setup took about an hour the first time, after having spent a couple of hours with the instructions, and after very careful measuring of the foil. A friend of mine recommended it after about ten years of success with the FF4 (I think) on his Precision 23. Its a simple system that has worked flawlessly thus far. By the way, I did not get the ball-bearing set, on advise from the dealer and my friend. Given the loads on my jib, it was not needed. Dave
I installed the FF2 on my 222 at the beginning of last season, and it worked great. The setup took about an hour the first time, after having spent a couple of hours with the instructions, and after very careful measuring of the foil. A friend of mine recommended it after about ten years of success with the FF4 (I think) on his Precision 23. Its a simple system that has worked flawlessly thus far. By the way, I did not get the ball-bearing set, on advise from the dealer and my friend. Given the loads on my jib, it was not needed. Dave
Another question
I have a FF2 sitting at home right now, with plans to install it on my C22. I see many of the CDI furlers on boats in my marina, as well as at my father-in-laws marina. it seems to be a popular model among the lower income sailing set. There is nothing derogatory meant by that, since I'm in the group, just can't think of any other way to say it. I have only one question. Has anyone ever ran into a time when the furler jammed, and they couldn't get their foresail down? Since there is an internal halyard that would probably need to be cut, then replaced as the only way I can figure out how to drop the jib. I am thinking about rigging a way to release the halyard, and attach a small line to it to be able to raise the jib again.
I have a FF2 sitting at home right now, with plans to install it on my C22. I see many of the CDI furlers on boats in my marina, as well as at my father-in-laws marina. it seems to be a popular model among the lower income sailing set. There is nothing derogatory meant by that, since I'm in the group, just can't think of any other way to say it. I have only one question. Has anyone ever ran into a time when the furler jammed, and they couldn't get their foresail down? Since there is an internal halyard that would probably need to be cut, then replaced as the only way I can figure out how to drop the jib. I am thinking about rigging a way to release the halyard, and attach a small line to it to be able to raise the jib again.
Bill, I am contemplating putting the same cdi
on my 27 cherubini this spring. Is it easier to install with the mast up or down? Did you have to have your headsail altered?Thanks!
on my 27 cherubini this spring. Is it easier to install with the mast up or down? Did you have to have your headsail altered?Thanks!
Furler
I installed a FF7 on my Catalina 30 two years ago. I have been very happy with it. My wife and I installed it in one afternoon. All jibs had to be recut to size. I have had no problems that I didn't create. Do not let the sail come out too fast. Keep tension on the furling line as the sail comes out or the spool may overwrap. Make sure no other halyards are in a postion to wrap up when the sail unfurls (i.e. spinnaker halyard). Also make sure to put a couple of extra jib sheet wraps around the jib after it is foiled and tie down the furling line. This keeps the sail from unfurling by itself in heavey wind. Usually happens when you're not there. Not a good thing as it generally shreds the jib. Hope this helps. Sean
I installed a FF7 on my Catalina 30 two years ago. I have been very happy with it. My wife and I installed it in one afternoon. All jibs had to be recut to size. I have had no problems that I didn't create. Do not let the sail come out too fast. Keep tension on the furling line as the sail comes out or the spool may overwrap. Make sure no other halyards are in a postion to wrap up when the sail unfurls (i.e. spinnaker halyard). Also make sure to put a couple of extra jib sheet wraps around the jib after it is foiled and tie down the furling line. This keeps the sail from unfurling by itself in heavey wind. Usually happens when you're not there. Not a good thing as it generally shreds the jib. Hope this helps. Sean
John: If you have the mast down do it then
It will be a lot easier because you will be able to measure more accurately and generally there will be less fussing around. It's recommended that you add a toggle on both ends of the forstay so you can do both ends if you have the mast down. I didn't do the masthead end obviously. I'll do it this spring while the bottom is painted. John, I bought a new jib sail with a foam strip near the luff which is supposed to make the reefed sail set better and I think it does. The local sailmakers here seem to want about $100 to modify your existing jib for the furler. Bill
It will be a lot easier because you will be able to measure more accurately and generally there will be less fussing around. It's recommended that you add a toggle on both ends of the forstay so you can do both ends if you have the mast down. I didn't do the masthead end obviously. I'll do it this spring while the bottom is painted. John, I bought a new jib sail with a foam strip near the luff which is supposed to make the reefed sail set better and I think it does. The local sailmakers here seem to want about $100 to modify your existing jib for the furler. Bill
I've had a CDI furler on my O'Day28 fo 20yrs
It works good and I wouldn't hesitate to put it on a new boat. Mine is a continuous line type and the only problem I had was when the line stretched and popped out of the drum in about 30kts of wind. I learned, you just have to keep the continuous line tight and at the correct angle to the drum. All I had to do was go forward and roll up the the head sail by hand, not a big problem.
It works good and I wouldn't hesitate to put it on a new boat. Mine is a continuous line type and the only problem I had was when the line stretched and popped out of the drum in about 30kts of wind. I learned, you just have to keep the continuous line tight and at the correct angle to the drum. All I had to do was go forward and roll up the the head sail by hand, not a big problem.
CDI with or without ball bearings?
Considering a FF4 for my H25.5. Is there any advantage to ball bearings in this size?
Considering a FF4 for my H25.5. Is there any advantage to ball bearings in this size?
Foil Length can be changed.
Warren, CDI recommends a foil length that is generally ...safe for the average installer. If the forestay length is fixed and not going to be changed, You can lengthen the foil. The foil can be extended so that the upper portion rotates on the swag fitting of the forestay. This is about 8 to 14" longer than what is recommended depending on the size of furler. Having the upper fitting rotating on the swag fitting minimizes the possibility of the forestay wire lay unraveling. Bill, The furler should be used going upwind with a minimum load on the sheets. I installed the ff4 on my 25' O'Day and have had no problem without the bearing. The bearing is more parts to cause problems. r.w.landau
Warren, CDI recommends a foil length that is generally ...safe for the average installer. If the forestay length is fixed and not going to be changed, You can lengthen the foil. The foil can be extended so that the upper portion rotates on the swag fitting of the forestay. This is about 8 to 14" longer than what is recommended depending on the size of furler. Having the upper fitting rotating on the swag fitting minimizes the possibility of the forestay wire lay unraveling. Bill, The furler should be used going upwind with a minimum load on the sheets. I installed the ff4 on my 25' O'Day and have had no problem without the bearing. The bearing is more parts to cause problems. r.w.landau
Furling jib boat interchangability
Can a furling jib for a Catalina 25 be used on a Hunter 25.5? We're considering a Cat 25 150% furling jib for our 25.5. Luff seems about a foot short, but it looks like everything fits OK.
Can a furling jib for a Catalina 25 be used on a Hunter 25.5? We're considering a Cat 25 150% furling jib for our 25.5. Luff seems about a foot short, but it looks like everything fits OK.
I installed a CDI FF6 with the ball-bearing option on my O28 at the beginning of last season. As one post said, there were no problems I didn't cause myself. The foil came scratched and marred a bit because of shipping, and CDI refunded the cost of the bearing option, which impressed me greatly. All the precautions of extra sheet wraps, and, in my cae, cleating the furling line, apply. I bought the rig through my sailmaker, and added a new furling, 130% jib, and in spite of posts saying that you can't sail with the jib furled more than about 90%, I found that not to be true. And I was grateful. Anyway, it works, it works well, I could not have afforded a furler and new sails if I had gone to anything else. The only thing I would prefer would be a larger diameter furling line, but I know it is possible to decore a larger line. Small price to pay for the convenience of not having to go forward to raise and lower the jib. Bill Coxe, O28 Kukulcán, New London, CT
Our CDI furler has been in use over 15 years
And the only thing I've done is replace the furling line. It's a good product. remember: 2 wrongs don't make a right!! (but 3 left's will)
Tom s/v GAIA
And the only thing I've done is replace the furling line. It's a good product. remember: 2 wrongs don't make a right!! (but 3 left's will)
Tom s/v GAIAFurlers and backstay adjusters
One very important concept behind furlers is the impact that a loosened backstay adjuster has upon the integrity of the foil or extrusion (the part that goes around the forestay). This foil or extrusion on just about all furlers, with the notable exception of CDI and a small boat Harken unit not readily available any longer, are pieced together onto a forestay. This leaves joints and cracks that may open when the forestay is loosened when the backstay adjuster is loosened. The CDI foil or extrusion is a single piece and thereby bends easily with a loosened forestay. Now if one does not have a backstay adjuster, this is a mute point. However, adjusting luff tension on a jib or genoa is an important sail control even for a furling jib or genoa. As the luff of a furling jib is seated into a sail groove in the extrusion, it is difficult to loosen the luff tension by merely loosening the jib halyard. When the jib or genoa is hanked onto the forestay, loosening the luff with halyard is quite easy. Another fashion to adjust the luff on a jib is through a backstay adjuster. While a backstay adjuster normally is considered a mainsail control, loosening it does loosen the forestay and in turn loosens or powers up the luff on the headsail. Hence, with a furler, a backstay adjuster is important for adjusting the headsail luff. So, if you have a backstay adjuster and wish to use it with a furler, the CDI furler with its single piece foil does have an advantage over a foil that is pieced together. Outside of that, the CDI internal halyard does make the initial hoisting of the jib at the start of the season problematic in that with the exception of the larger units, their fashion to tie down the halyard is poor. This should be modified by attaching a small cleat as on the larger units. The CDI ball bearing option is usually required on boats larger than about twenty-two to twenty-five feet. It is not necessary on a FF2 on a smaller boat. If you are intending to have a yard install your furler, the CDI unit, while less expensive than others, is more labor intensive initially to set up than another unit that has its foil in sections. In this respect, the CDI is probably better as an owner installed item, while other brands would be better for a yard to install. I have a CDI FF2 that I installed onto my C-22. I made several modifications to make it work better. I also have a backstay adjuster. The CDI is a robust, simple unit that serves me well, yet I dread the difficulty of hoisting the jib every spring. Bottom line is that the CDI is an excellent unit but in my opinion somewhat inferior to other brands. However, I do have a backstay adjuster and have great comfort knowing that there are no connections to worry about when I power things up loosening the backstay adjuster.
One very important concept behind furlers is the impact that a loosened backstay adjuster has upon the integrity of the foil or extrusion (the part that goes around the forestay). This foil or extrusion on just about all furlers, with the notable exception of CDI and a small boat Harken unit not readily available any longer, are pieced together onto a forestay. This leaves joints and cracks that may open when the forestay is loosened when the backstay adjuster is loosened. The CDI foil or extrusion is a single piece and thereby bends easily with a loosened forestay. Now if one does not have a backstay adjuster, this is a mute point. However, adjusting luff tension on a jib or genoa is an important sail control even for a furling jib or genoa. As the luff of a furling jib is seated into a sail groove in the extrusion, it is difficult to loosen the luff tension by merely loosening the jib halyard. When the jib or genoa is hanked onto the forestay, loosening the luff with halyard is quite easy. Another fashion to adjust the luff on a jib is through a backstay adjuster. While a backstay adjuster normally is considered a mainsail control, loosening it does loosen the forestay and in turn loosens or powers up the luff on the headsail. Hence, with a furler, a backstay adjuster is important for adjusting the headsail luff. So, if you have a backstay adjuster and wish to use it with a furler, the CDI furler with its single piece foil does have an advantage over a foil that is pieced together. Outside of that, the CDI internal halyard does make the initial hoisting of the jib at the start of the season problematic in that with the exception of the larger units, their fashion to tie down the halyard is poor. This should be modified by attaching a small cleat as on the larger units. The CDI ball bearing option is usually required on boats larger than about twenty-two to twenty-five feet. It is not necessary on a FF2 on a smaller boat. If you are intending to have a yard install your furler, the CDI unit, while less expensive than others, is more labor intensive initially to set up than another unit that has its foil in sections. In this respect, the CDI is probably better as an owner installed item, while other brands would be better for a yard to install. I have a CDI FF2 that I installed onto my C-22. I made several modifications to make it work better. I also have a backstay adjuster. The CDI is a robust, simple unit that serves me well, yet I dread the difficulty of hoisting the jib every spring. Bottom line is that the CDI is an excellent unit but in my opinion somewhat inferior to other brands. However, I do have a backstay adjuster and have great comfort knowing that there are no connections to worry about when I power things up loosening the backstay adjuster.
My boat had a 20 yr. old CDI
Warren, My CS27 came with a 20 year old CDI furler when I bought the boat in 2001. These older models used a metal extrusion which came in about 6 foot sections unlike the newer plastic one piece now used. The unit still worked but was a real bear to furl the genoa in heavy winds due to the plastic bearing being worn (no ball bearings). But a pretty impressive lifespan. However when it came time to replace it I found a Hood Seafurl for the same price as a CDI FF6 with bearings. The Hood is a more substantial furler. I also found that I prefer the external haylard of the Hood over the CDI's internal set-up. I can point a bit better and it is more easy to get my genoa inside the lifelines when pointing. Both I attribute to a tighter luff. Kevin
Warren, My CS27 came with a 20 year old CDI furler when I bought the boat in 2001. These older models used a metal extrusion which came in about 6 foot sections unlike the newer plastic one piece now used. The unit still worked but was a real bear to furl the genoa in heavy winds due to the plastic bearing being worn (no ball bearings). But a pretty impressive lifespan. However when it came time to replace it I found a Hood Seafurl for the same price as a CDI FF6 with bearings. The Hood is a more substantial furler. I also found that I prefer the external haylard of the Hood over the CDI's internal set-up. I can point a bit better and it is more easy to get my genoa inside the lifelines when pointing. Both I attribute to a tighter luff. Kevin
Guaranteed for life
Had one on a previous boat. Guaranteed for life, even against "acts of poor seamanship". Doesn't get any better than that. Yes, they are on the low end of the price scale but they generally do what they are supposed to...that's about all that any of the rest of them can say. An yes, the extrusion is plastic and it has to sit in the sun for an hour or three. Brad
Had one on a previous boat. Guaranteed for life, even against "acts of poor seamanship". Doesn't get any better than that. Yes, they are on the low end of the price scale but they generally do what they are supposed to...that's about all that any of the rest of them can say. An yes, the extrusion is plastic and it has to sit in the sun for an hour or three. Brad
Not waranteed for life anymore
CDI recently replaced its lifetime warranty with a 6-year Limited warranty. My opinion is the plastic extrusion is the "weak link" in the system. I purchased a Bamar COT furler from SailCare. Very nice unit at a very nice price.
CDI recently replaced its lifetime warranty with a 6-year Limited warranty. My opinion is the plastic extrusion is the "weak link" in the system. I purchased a Bamar COT furler from SailCare. Very nice unit at a very nice price.
CDI and tensioning the luff
The ball bearing option eliminates the usual six month maintenance requirement to clean dirt off the nylon block. It also reduces effort on the furling line. The CDI has some advantages and some trade offs. One great advantage is that the jib halyard is free for use with a drifter and a free luff drifter can be tacked just as a jib / genoa. Furlers which require use of the jib halyard and a turning block down on the mast for that halyard will force a drifter to be tacked in the same way as a cruising chute and of course require using a spinnaker halyard. Consequentially, if a drifter is contemplated to be in the sail inventory, the CDI makes good sense as it allows for much easier drifter tacking. One area that is not covered very often is the downhaul on the CDI. I think the best method is a sturdy 1/8 inch downhaul. It should be 4 ft long however so that three loops can be rove through the furler throat and the luff tack. This becomes a block and tackle with purchase making tensionioning the luff very easy. The several runs provide all the line strength necessary for the downhaul. It is a much better technique than using a fixed pendant and struggling to tension the luff with the integrated halyard. The halyard should only be used to hoist the sail to the top and then the tack secured as detailed. While most are probably rigged that way, I've noted that a few have fixed pendants leaving the owners a bit frustrated by the struggle to tension the luff.
The ball bearing option eliminates the usual six month maintenance requirement to clean dirt off the nylon block. It also reduces effort on the furling line. The CDI has some advantages and some trade offs. One great advantage is that the jib halyard is free for use with a drifter and a free luff drifter can be tacked just as a jib / genoa. Furlers which require use of the jib halyard and a turning block down on the mast for that halyard will force a drifter to be tacked in the same way as a cruising chute and of course require using a spinnaker halyard. Consequentially, if a drifter is contemplated to be in the sail inventory, the CDI makes good sense as it allows for much easier drifter tacking. One area that is not covered very often is the downhaul on the CDI. I think the best method is a sturdy 1/8 inch downhaul. It should be 4 ft long however so that three loops can be rove through the furler throat and the luff tack. This becomes a block and tackle with purchase making tensionioning the luff very easy. The several runs provide all the line strength necessary for the downhaul. It is a much better technique than using a fixed pendant and struggling to tension the luff with the integrated halyard. The halyard should only be used to hoist the sail to the top and then the tack secured as detailed. While most are probably rigged that way, I've noted that a few have fixed pendants leaving the owners a bit frustrated by the struggle to tension the luff.
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