Catalina 22 SK trailer options?

[GDTRFB]

I recently purchased a '77 swing keel catalina. Nice boat, set up well but it was in the water when I bought it. Seller said the trailer was 'useable', with recent trips across the mountains to Eastern WA. So I assumed it to be in average shape. Upon purchase, we loaded the boat onto the trailer, took her home and got her back into the water. Then I began inspecting the trailer and found the side rails where the springs and axle mount are rusted completely through, the angle iron where the axles and springs clamp to the trailer are gone, I dropped the axles and much of the frame came with it or flaked off completely. Now have realized the trailer (original 1977 trailrite) is not salvagable. I was very fortunate to make it the 80 miles home with out a catastrphy!

Locally there is a Caulkins San Juan 23 trailer for sail appears to be in good shape. Although the SJ 23 is set on the trailer with the keel supporting much of the boat weight and the bunks are mainly for stability.

Has anyone set up a SJ trailer for use with a C22? if so, any input on what needs to be accomplished for safe trailering and support? Pictures etc would be helpful too.

I am new to the club, any information will be appreciated.

 

[watercolors II]

Past weekend helped load 20 trailerables

Here’s what I would look for in a trailer for modification to an other boat;

I would say a must. Are the bunk supports adjustable up and down. This would allow you to sit the boat on the trailer now without having to have the supports cut and re-welded. Lay a board across the bunks at the present lowest part, measure the distance down to the keel support. For a Catalina 22 you need a measurement of 16 inches plus if the distance between the bunks is about 50 inches wide, wider than 50 inches would be more than 16 inches and narrower than 50 inches would be less than 16 inches.
With a swing keel you want the keel all the way up and load the boat on the trailer. The bunks carry the weight of the hull. The back end of the keel is dropped down on the keel bunk and this carries half the weight of the keel, so you need a space between the keel and the keel bunk before dropping the keel.

A plus for another trailer would be the front tower with winch. Is it bolted to the frame or is it welded in place. Bolted means you can move it to fit the new boat or you can move the boat forward or backwards on the trailer for better balance when towing.

Third would be if the the axle is moveable. If the springs and wheel fender is attached to a separate piece of metal and then bolted or U-bolted to the main frame. This would allow you to move the axle for balancing the boat on the trailer.


You need 325 lbs or MORE of weight at the ball to tow a Catalina 22. Moveable winch tower or moveable axle will make it possible to achieve this on a new trailer. If neither moves, then the winch tower may have to be cut and welded in a new position.

It all comes back to the adjustable bunk height to fit this new hull positioning.

 

[jfrench]

Fitting your boat to its trailer

Pick the boat up with a travel lift and position it over the trailer (on shoring) in the position you want it to ride. Check your tongue weight. Position your already finished and carpeted 2" x 6" x 10'(approximately) bunks up against the stern and tighten the rear support bracket (install only one lag screw into the bunk so that it can swing left to right). Next, position the front end of the bunk on a jack, under where you want it to contact the hull, and jack it up against the hull. Tighten the front bunk support and install lag screws into the bunk. Install the center support. Install the missing lag screw into the rear support. Install the second bunk using the tool and instructions in the next paragraph. Remove the shoring. Done.

Use this tool to duplicate the position of your supports on the remaining side of the trailer.
http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-505P...ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1313661523&sr=1-1
Measure out from the center of the trailer to each installed support and measure its angle with the protractor (above). With a Sharpie pen, mark a reflection of that angle on the trailer cross beam, at the same distance to the opposite side. Next, measure the height of extension of the installed 'bolster' supports, and mark their companions at the same height -use the protractor to mark the correct angle when you mark their height, it makes it a snap to mount the bolster at the correct place on the first try. By using this angle + distance system, you'll end up with both bunks reflecting the position of the other, and your boat will sit straight on the trailer.

Note: When placing the shoring or the jack, be sure to keep a space clear to install your bolster support. It's aggravating to get everything in place, then realize you have to take it back out because you can't install the support. Not that I ever did that!

As "Watercolors!" says, allow a few inches for the keel to be let down onto a support so that its weight doesn't ride on the winch cable, and ensure you have enough weight on the tonque. These boats are quite "tail" heavy, especially with an outboard, battery, and fuel tank installed.

Here's a source for the bunk supports:
http://www.easternmarine.com/Boat-Trailer-Bunk-Brackets-Hardware/

Use the EZ-LOADER Bunk Mounting Bracket, #250-024174 and Pyramid Washers (8-pack) #10806A to attach "Bolster brackets" of the correct length. Here's a link for the 24" size: 24" Galvanized Trailer Bunk Bolster Bracket #44046 .

The above is based on starting from a bare trailer with nothing but cross beams. "U" bolts around the cross beams would attach the bolster brackets. You haven't posted pix of your project trailer, so it may have custom-welded support brackets. Cutting those off would be a whole different ball game.

Be careful what you get into in reworking a trailer. Get three quotes for brand new trailers for reference before you dive into a resurrection project. Notice the rusty axle in the pictures below. Even after you rework a trailer, you still have its original foundation. Once you replace the wheels, axles, hubs, rusty brakes, etc., one piece at a time at retail; you could have bought a shiny new trailer.

See pix below for similar installation, although this trailer came with 1.5" square bolsters instead of the style in the link above.

 

[GDTRFB]

here are some picts of the SJ 23 trailer I am thinking about modifying:

I need to take some measurements to see if it is worth the effort to modify or not. The trailer itself is much more stout than my original trailer with 3" x 4" box tubing side rails.

Everything is adjustable, I think I can pull it off.

I think I would have to section my old trailer, no weldable metal is left at the axles:

Paul

 

[watercolors II]

Perfect

I believe you have almost everything you need to get started.

The bunk supports are adjustable for height, they also are bolted to the mainframe, wonderful. I would bolt them to the inside of the frame, the mainframe looks like it’s width is about 5 feet, to the inside would make the bunks about 4 1/2 feet wide where 4 feet plus is perfect. Look at your old trailer you’ll see the bunks are about 8 feet long or longer. You’ll need a center support to pull the center of the bunk down about 2 1/2 inches from the ends.

The axle is attached to it’s own frame and then U-bolted to the mainframe of the trailer, so you can adjust the axle forward or backwards for balancing the boat for towing, perfect.

Remove those keel guides, being metal they will scratch your keel all up, build new guides out of wood and place them up high to be effective. see attachment.

 

[txtowman]

That is a stout trailer, it will last 4 ever, not a big task to modify.

Jfrench---- your bunks are too skinny in the rear, they will oilcan the hull if not moved out. Ask me how I know this!

 

[GDTRFB]

That is a stout trailer, it will last 4 ever, not a big task to modify.

Jfrench---- your bunks are too skinny in the rear, they will oilcan the hull if not moved out. Ask me how I know this!

the trailer is way over built in my opinion. the wheels are a 6 lug 15" with 8 ply tires.

I noticed too that my original bunks are much wider at the stern and narrow about a foot at the front of bunk. I plan to keep the same deminsions and angles for my bunks on the new trailer.

Paul