Catalina 22 Rudder refinishing

Nov 30, 2024
10
Catalina 22 Dana Point
My Cat 22 is a 100% trailer sailor, so it stay in the water 2-3 days tops. So, I really don't need/want ablative paint.
I'm sanding down and refinishing my OEM rudder. The tiller will be getting coated with Satin Halcyon and the rudder itself will be repainted white. I've finished my bilge with Totalboat Bilge epoxy and really like how tuff it is and how smooth it is. Does anyone see a downside to using this on the rudder? Rx for paint if so?
 
Nov 30, 2024
10
Catalina 22 Dana Point
Hum, upon additional research: I'll be using a 2 part Pettit epoxy Primer in white, and a EZ poxy top coat in white. Divit repairs on the rudder will be TB 2 part epoxy thickened.
I'll post up pics when Im done.
 
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Jun 9, 2008
1,789
- -- -Bayfield
You suggest not using an ablative paint, which means you are looking for an antifouling paint, right? Ablative (multi-season) paints are perfect for trailerable boats, if you are looking for something to keep your rudder from fouling. Ablative paints are designed to leach off of your rudder or boat bottom as you use the boat. So, like a bar of soap, it gets smaller with each use, but continues to clean until it is gone. That's the way ablative paints work. That way you don't get build up over time and when you see bare fiberglass, you know it is time to repaint. Secondly, most single season paints have a cuprous oxide biocide in them which work great as long as the boat sits in the water. But once you take it out and the surface dries, these copper paints are rendered less effective, because of a chemical change, while with an ablative paint, you can remove your boat from the water and let it dry as many times as you want and when you relaunch, you can expect good antifouling protection. Single season paints work differently. The biocide leaches away from the paint and leaves the paint behind, which eventually leads up to paint build up over time as you continue to recoat. So, you can look at an old paint application, which might look good, but cannot assume there is any biocide in the paint to protect your hull. And, if there is, you have to abraze the surface to open up the pores to release what biocide is left, which is a job and a half. With ablative paint, as long as you see paint, you know it's working for you and it doesn't pile up on the hull because it sloughs off until it is gone.

Now, if you are looking for a different method of finishing your rudder without use an antifouling paint, then an epoxy paint would be a good choice. Especially a two part epoxy. But, remember while epoxy is pretty waterproof, it doesn't hold up to sunlight well and hence will fade and oxidize more quickly than a topside paint. Most professionals use a polyurethane paint like Awlgrip, which is a linear polyurethane top coat. But these are never used under the water line where any lengthy exposure exists, because they will blister. One part urethane paints like Interlux' Brightside will also blister under the waterline. They are fine above the waterline, where they get wet, but not immersed for any length of time.

If the above does not answer your question, then LMK.
 
Nov 30, 2024
10
Catalina 22 Dana Point
I'm looking at a 2 part epoxy primer and a 2 part poly paint epifanes. Will the Epifanes blister?
 
Sep 15, 2016
834
Catalina 22 Minnesota
Ok So there is some misinformation in this thread but as for the OP question if it's a trailer sailor and you dont want antifouling then a 2 part epoxy for the rudder is fine. Most of those who race a C22 use a white epoxy on the rudder and pull it in the evening after racing.

On my boat I used VC Performance Epoxy on my rudder and love it. I used a good primer first and it makes for a very thick coat that won't come off on you hands like bottom paints. 5 years in now and its still almost perfect except for a few nicks where I hit debris and things. A little touch up and it's good as new. It's also harder and more robust than gelcoat.

If you trailer sail the boat it's best to leave the hull alone and keep the gelcoat. Your boat is not in the water long enough to matter with blistering if you're not keeping it in for more than a week at a time. Again the racers prefer a smooth OEM bottom for better speed / performance. you will though need to wash / rinse the bottom when you pull it and look for slime, etc. that try to hitch a ride home.

All that said @Migolito it appears your in Dana Point so if you ever change your mind and plan to slip the boat you'll want a good ablative paint. The harder VC style paints won't work well in salt water. Also note that whatever you put on now if you slip later will need to come off before antifoul paint can be applied.

Hope this helps