I have a '77 swing keel that appears to have been manufactured in the days before they added zincs. I keep the boat in salt water, and the keel is showing some signs of very mild deterioration. I have tried to drill a hole in the keel per the diagrams from the Catalina manual, but with absolutely no success. I cannot remove the keel to get it to a drill press, and the Catalina Direct folks cannot tell me how to get this job done. No bit will penetrate the cast iron. Any suggestions? One idea was to weld a stud to the keel and bolt on the zinc. Not a bad thought, but will the weld create a situation of worsening the galvanic action, thereby defeating the purpose of the zinc? Any help appreciated, david
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J
john renfro
drill
hello david, i was sucssesful in drilling a hole through my keel for the zinc mount. but i would not try it again. i had my keel out on a stand so it was easy access. i used a dremmel tool with a diamond grinding tip,it wore out but got a hole started. then it was a drill and titanium bits. 1/8th size for a 1/4 inch then open the hole with graduated sizes untill it was the size of the mounting bolt, then back to the 1/8th drill and deepen the hole another 1/4th inch then open it up, time after time till through. took 5 hours. one 1/8th in. drill broke off in the hole. i had to start a new hole next to the first hole. try mounting a zinc on the keel pivot and check often so the bolts don't loosen up. good luck john
hello david, i was sucssesful in drilling a hole through my keel for the zinc mount. but i would not try it again. i had my keel out on a stand so it was easy access. i used a dremmel tool with a diamond grinding tip,it wore out but got a hole started. then it was a drill and titanium bits. 1/8th size for a 1/4 inch then open the hole with graduated sizes untill it was the size of the mounting bolt, then back to the 1/8th drill and deepen the hole another 1/4th inch then open it up, time after time till through. took 5 hours. one 1/8th in. drill broke off in the hole. i had to start a new hole next to the first hole. try mounting a zinc on the keel pivot and check often so the bolts don't loosen up. good luck john
D
Dick of Sylvan
Epoxy Glue
If its that hard to drill, I think I'd try to epoxy glue it on. Wonder if anyone has done that? Dick
If its that hard to drill, I think I'd try to epoxy glue it on. Wonder if anyone has done that? Dick
F
F SONDERGAARD
CHECK WEST MARINE
WE DROP A ZINC PLATE ATTACHED TO A CABLE WITH ALLIGATER CLIPS OVER THE SIDE OF OUR BOAT AND GROUND THE ZINC TO OUR KEEL DRUM. WEST MARINE HAS ONE SET UP THAT IS A ZINC PLATE IN THE SHAPE OF A FISH THAT HAS THE CABLE AND CLIPS ALREADY ATTACHED. THIS WORKS GREAT FOR OUR IRON KEEL! BEST PART, NO DRILL!!
WE DROP A ZINC PLATE ATTACHED TO A CABLE WITH ALLIGATER CLIPS OVER THE SIDE OF OUR BOAT AND GROUND THE ZINC TO OUR KEEL DRUM. WEST MARINE HAS ONE SET UP THAT IS A ZINC PLATE IN THE SHAPE OF A FISH THAT HAS THE CABLE AND CLIPS ALREADY ATTACHED. THIS WORKS GREAT FOR OUR IRON KEEL! BEST PART, NO DRILL!!
A
Aldo
Remember you need an Electrical Connection
David: Remember, the Zinc and the Cast Iron must be electrically connected. You are trying to prevent Galvanic corosion. Epoxing the zinc to the keel won't accomplish this. If you were to use the fish zinc on the wire, the wire should be connected electrically to the keel. What I did, and I did this 22 years ago, was drilled 2 holes 1/4 inch diameter, near but aft of the keel hangar pin. (Remember, you don't want the zincs to hit the bottom of the hull when the keel is rotated downward). (I probably drilled through the keel with a 3/16 inch diameter, long, bit first, then finished up with a 1/4 diameter bit). Don't be afraid to buy new good bits. Make an effort to keep the drill straight, that is not leaning up or down. I then put a piece of brass threaded rod into the thru hole, measured it, and then cut it to length, and put half of a pair of dome shapped zincs, around 3 inches in diameter, onto each side of the keel. I actually have 2 sets of zincs on the keel, and change one set every other year. I fill in around the nuts on the threaded rod with silicone sealer, after I tighten the nuts. I have changed from the brass threaded rod to stainless steel, but the brass may have been better electrically. As long as the zincs are corroding, you know you are doing some good. Aldo
David: Remember, the Zinc and the Cast Iron must be electrically connected. You are trying to prevent Galvanic corosion. Epoxing the zinc to the keel won't accomplish this. If you were to use the fish zinc on the wire, the wire should be connected electrically to the keel. What I did, and I did this 22 years ago, was drilled 2 holes 1/4 inch diameter, near but aft of the keel hangar pin. (Remember, you don't want the zincs to hit the bottom of the hull when the keel is rotated downward). (I probably drilled through the keel with a 3/16 inch diameter, long, bit first, then finished up with a 1/4 diameter bit). Don't be afraid to buy new good bits. Make an effort to keep the drill straight, that is not leaning up or down. I then put a piece of brass threaded rod into the thru hole, measured it, and then cut it to length, and put half of a pair of dome shapped zincs, around 3 inches in diameter, onto each side of the keel. I actually have 2 sets of zincs on the keel, and change one set every other year. I fill in around the nuts on the threaded rod with silicone sealer, after I tighten the nuts. I have changed from the brass threaded rod to stainless steel, but the brass may have been better electrically. As long as the zincs are corroding, you know you are doing some good. Aldo
C
Charlie
Zinc's?
I bought my '86 C-22 last year and removed and reworked the keel completely. This included a sand blast to bare metal, new pivot hole bushing, fairing, barrier coat and bottom paint. I found no evidence of there ever being a zinc attached to the keel. To my knowledge, this boat has only been in salt water. Could the fact that the keel is completely enclosed in the fairing and paint? The only exposed area is at the pivot. I hate to break thru this coating if it is indeed offering protection, Can anyone respond. Thanks
I bought my '86 C-22 last year and removed and reworked the keel completely. This included a sand blast to bare metal, new pivot hole bushing, fairing, barrier coat and bottom paint. I found no evidence of there ever being a zinc attached to the keel. To my knowledge, this boat has only been in salt water. Could the fact that the keel is completely enclosed in the fairing and paint? The only exposed area is at the pivot. I hate to break thru this coating if it is indeed offering protection, Can anyone respond. Thanks
G
greg
Drilling
When drilling I have recently discovered (on the internet) a very good cutting/drilling lube; automobile anti-freeze. It is truly amazing as it carries the heat away very well. I put it in a plastic spray bottle and keep the drill bit/work under a constant stream. It has saved me many drill bits when drilling into stainless steel. Be sure to catch the run off in a bucket or pan and either reuse or dispose of it in an environmentally friendly manner.
When drilling I have recently discovered (on the internet) a very good cutting/drilling lube; automobile anti-freeze. It is truly amazing as it carries the heat away very well. I put it in a plastic spray bottle and keep the drill bit/work under a constant stream. It has saved me many drill bits when drilling into stainless steel. Be sure to catch the run off in a bucket or pan and either reuse or dispose of it in an environmentally friendly manner.
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