After several measurements I ordered a Raritan Cricket to replace the old ?? head on my H37C. The original head had a mounting pattern that was wide(12"?) and not very deep, around five inches. On an H37C the Cricket sits nicely on the platform but the rear lag bolt must go as far back as possible if you don't want the front hanging over the edge. In fact I was able to use the left front(forward/port) mounting hole. Had to drill two new ones. Now have to fill three old ones. Problem is that the water inlet is a straight 1/2" tube out the back on lower left. It's almost against the back leaving very little room for the hose connection. In fact mine has a minor kink that I hope will not affect the flow. Practical Sailor rated this highly for an inexpensive head. But I should have gone with the PH-II which has a very similar mounting to the original. Oh, and getting the hoses off and back on to the vented-loop?! Thanks for the hair dryer tip Peggy. With all that heat it was still a two hour job, just getting the hoses on and clamped.
- Status
I don't suppose it occured to you...
...To put down a nice teak or mahogany board to create a slightly bigger platform on which to mount the new toilet? Which not only allows you to move the toilet enough forward, but also covers up the old holes. As for your inlet hose, that "slight kink" is gonna eventually collapse altogether. I just got off the phone with Joe in the Raritan tech services department at Raritan, who should be able to help you figure out what to do to solve the problem. Give him a call at 800-352-5630 x 4251
...To put down a nice teak or mahogany board to create a slightly bigger platform on which to mount the new toilet? Which not only allows you to move the toilet enough forward, but also covers up the old holes. As for your inlet hose, that "slight kink" is gonna eventually collapse altogether. I just got off the phone with Joe in the Raritan tech services department at Raritan, who should be able to help you figure out what to do to solve the problem. Give him a call at 800-352-5630 x 4251
Sure, now you tell me!
Of course I didn't think of adding a riser. If I were that smart would I be sitting here at work!
Actually I did talk to John at Raritan but did not bring up that item. The main reason that a riser would work(besides covering the holes) is that the area behind the ledge has a slope to it. So that would give me more clearance. My own solution was going to be to fabricate an elbow. To do that I will have to shorten the existing plastic tube. Then I will have to find a PVC elbow to slip over the tube and glue. Live and learn(sometimes).
Of course I didn't think of adding a riser. If I were that smart would I be sitting here at work!
Actually I did talk to John at Raritan but did not bring up that item. The main reason that a riser would work(besides covering the holes) is that the area behind the ledge has a slope to it. So that would give me more clearance. My own solution was going to be to fabricate an elbow. To do that I will have to shorten the existing plastic tube. Then I will have to find a PVC elbow to slip over the tube and glue. Live and learn(sometimes).Mine was just delivered!
I too just bought the Cricket for my H34, upon opening the box it was very apparent that I needed to do just what was suggested for a base. I have some 3/4 inch plywood I think I will use some West system epoxy on it then paint it white to match the rest of the head. That will do the trick! John Kudera s/v Fifty Fifty H34
I too just bought the Cricket for my H34, upon opening the box it was very apparent that I needed to do just what was suggested for a base. I have some 3/4 inch plywood I think I will use some West system epoxy on it then paint it white to match the rest of the head. That will do the trick! John Kudera s/v Fifty Fifty H34
DON'T expoxy the board down, John!
Sooner or later, you or the next owner will need another toilet...maybe an electric model. If you epoxy it onto the platform, getting it up will create dreadful problems. Fill the existing bolt holes, then put the board down, secure it place with screws and seal the edges with silicone to keep moisture from getting under it. (I wouldn't paint it either...I'd sand it smooth as glass and varnish it...but that's just a personal opinion.)
Sooner or later, you or the next owner will need another toilet...maybe an electric model. If you epoxy it onto the platform, getting it up will create dreadful problems. Fill the existing bolt holes, then put the board down, secure it place with screws and seal the edges with silicone to keep moisture from getting under it. (I wouldn't paint it either...I'd sand it smooth as glass and varnish it...but that's just a personal opinion.)
No Epoxy
HI, I had not thought to epoxy the plywood in place, however the ply I have is not marine grade, I need to seal it on all sides for moisture penetration, teak color is nice but the paint will hide the ply better. I hope this can be done, as I realy like the Cricket, and want to use it. John K, s/v Fifty-Fifty
HI, I had not thought to epoxy the plywood in place, however the ply I have is not marine grade, I need to seal it on all sides for moisture penetration, teak color is nice but the paint will hide the ply better. I hope this can be done, as I realy like the Cricket, and want to use it. John K, s/v Fifty-Fifty
Marine Plywood
John, The difference between marine grade plywood and regular grades is not the glue, it is the same in both. Marine plywood has all the defects repaired with plugs so it is a completely solid laminate without voids. I have been building a small sailing dinghy using 1/4" marine plywood. To seal it just get some low viscosity epoxy, I use west system, and coat each surface and the edges. After the first coat sand it and apply a second coat, it is now waterproof unless you ding it thru the epoxy. The glue laminating the wood I've read is waterproof but the wood itself is not.
John, The difference between marine grade plywood and regular grades is not the glue, it is the same in both. Marine plywood has all the defects repaired with plugs so it is a completely solid laminate without voids. I have been building a small sailing dinghy using 1/4" marine plywood. To seal it just get some low viscosity epoxy, I use west system, and coat each surface and the edges. After the first coat sand it and apply a second coat, it is now waterproof unless you ding it thru the epoxy. The glue laminating the wood I've read is waterproof but the wood itself is not.
- Status