The depth transducer has been in for 18 years and needs to be replaced. Whatever caulk I used back then was very good stuff, still pliable. I removed the locking ring but the caulk is holding the transducer solid. Not even a wack thru a 2x4 was enough to break it loose. The boat is out of the water and the transducer has to go out thru the hull. Any suggestions?
Cannot remove depth transducer
- Thread starter Sailorman27603
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Removing Caulk
Amazing it is still that good. Most of the adhesive and cualk removers I have tried don't work worh a darn. I would try a good sharp utility knive, and start cutting the bead. This has worked for me on occasion. Ain't easy, but you can do it. Some combination of cutting and some adhesive remover might do the trick.
Amazing it is still that good. Most of the adhesive and cualk removers I have tried don't work worh a darn. I would try a good sharp utility knive, and start cutting the bead. This has worked for me on occasion. Ain't easy, but you can do it. Some combination of cutting and some adhesive remover might do the trick.
Drill it out?
I have never replaced the depth transducer on a boat, but can't you just drill it out destroying the unit? Then once most of it is out, you will be able to clean the hole and prepare it for the new transducer. Doesn't your new unit go right through and up against the hull? With some of the work I am doing, when a part that I am replacing is stuck, I do not use fanness to get the old part out...... Like I said, I have never had to replace the depth transducer, so this is just my uneducated thoughts... Greg
I have never replaced the depth transducer on a boat, but can't you just drill it out destroying the unit? Then once most of it is out, you will be able to clean the hole and prepare it for the new transducer. Doesn't your new unit go right through and up against the hull? With some of the work I am doing, when a part that I am replacing is stuck, I do not use fanness to get the old part out...... Like I said, I have never had to replace the depth transducer, so this is just my uneducated thoughts... Greg
Removing Transducer
When I did it, I unscrewed the nut almost all the way off, then put another nut on and tightened them together. Then, I was able to use the wrench on the top nut, and unscrew the transducer from the caulk with no damage. If you can't borrow a nut from another transducer, there should be something in the plumbing aisle that should fit. If you don't want to save the transducer, try a pipe wrench directly on the transducer stem. Kevin
When I did it, I unscrewed the nut almost all the way off, then put another nut on and tightened them together. Then, I was able to use the wrench on the top nut, and unscrew the transducer from the caulk with no damage. If you can't borrow a nut from another transducer, there should be something in the plumbing aisle that should fit. If you don't want to save the transducer, try a pipe wrench directly on the transducer stem. Kevin
Use a pipe wrench..
You'll ruin the old transducers threads but twisting it out with a pipe wrench is the only way if you used 5200... This is why people warn about using 5200. It's not allowed on my boat period.. 4200 max and even that stuff is almost permanent..
You'll ruin the old transducers threads but twisting it out with a pipe wrench is the only way if you used 5200... This is why people warn about using 5200. It's not allowed on my boat period.. 4200 max and even that stuff is almost permanent..
Blessing in disquise???
If you are planning on tossing the transducer and the new transducer is a larger diameter, use the hole saw drill and drill into the center of the transducer. The old transducer will just fall out. If you remove the old transducer first, it will be necessary to insert a plug into the hole to ceter the hole saw to redrill for the new transducer.
If you are planning on tossing the transducer and the new transducer is a larger diameter, use the hole saw drill and drill into the center of the transducer. The old transducer will just fall out. If you remove the old transducer first, it will be necessary to insert a plug into the hole to ceter the hole saw to redrill for the new transducer.
solvent
There is a solvent for 5200 available. It has to be reapplied several times to "cut" the 5200 but it will eventually get the stuff off if that is what your have on your boat's transducer. When I changed my transducer last spring I slipped a super thin putty knife between the hull and the tranducer housing bezel. by tapping on the knife and gently wiggling it around the base the calk/sealant separated from the hull. Pesistance here is the key to a successful housing removal. Depending on the replacement unit it should come in two components: The housing and the transducer which seals with two "O" rings. Good Luck, Mike
There is a solvent for 5200 available. It has to be reapplied several times to "cut" the 5200 but it will eventually get the stuff off if that is what your have on your boat's transducer. When I changed my transducer last spring I slipped a super thin putty knife between the hull and the tranducer housing bezel. by tapping on the knife and gently wiggling it around the base the calk/sealant separated from the hull. Pesistance here is the key to a successful housing removal. Depending on the replacement unit it should come in two components: The housing and the transducer which seals with two "O" rings. Good Luck, Mike
Anti-Bond 2015
Mike is referring to something especially invented for getting 5200 and other polyurethane sealants to release. Its a small pump-spray can about $12 at WM and other fine stores. It works somewhat gradually at the exposed edges so you may have difficulty applying it to surfaces not accessible, but it does work.
Mike is referring to something especially invented for getting 5200 and other polyurethane sealants to release. Its a small pump-spray can about $12 at WM and other fine stores. It works somewhat gradually at the exposed edges so you may have difficulty applying it to surfaces not accessible, but it does work.
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