Boat has 3 coats ablative paint.Now covereed with slime. Some barnacles at edges and at stern. Question concerns supposed advantage of ablative paint already on boat. As I understood it advantage was that you could brush, rub or hose off slime and if good paint remains underneath you can relaunch without repainting or you can dry out and then paint over old coats without other preparation. Is this true? If I scrape off barnacles while hull still wet will there be good paint underneath which can simply be painted over or will I have to prep --i.e. lightly sand--those areas of hull and apply multiple coats of paint. If paint remains under slime and/or under barnacles and I cannot simply paint over without other prep then waht was the advantage of using ablative paint?
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Abative paint
Bill, I'll just address myself to the question of removing the paint before repainting. I take it all off. I sand the hull of my h26 with 500 grit sandpaper and clean it completely before repainting. I wouldn't do it any other way. I then get two coats from one gallon of paint. How big is your boat? When was it last painted? If you want to put off hauling out, you might consider a product called Dri Diver. It's basically a brush with a fibreglass pad that is designed to scrub the hull. Doesn't cost much and it does a great job. It takes me about 10 minutes a side. I could stay in the water indefinately except that I like to inspect the hull every year and half or two. David
Bill, I'll just address myself to the question of removing the paint before repainting. I take it all off. I sand the hull of my h26 with 500 grit sandpaper and clean it completely before repainting. I wouldn't do it any other way. I then get two coats from one gallon of paint. How big is your boat? When was it last painted? If you want to put off hauling out, you might consider a product called Dri Diver. It's basically a brush with a fibreglass pad that is designed to scrub the hull. Doesn't cost much and it does a great job. It takes me about 10 minutes a side. I could stay in the water indefinately except that I like to inspect the hull every year and half or two. David
Bottom jobs
You should sand lightly before adding a new coat. The idea is to rough it up enough to give the new paint a way to grab ahold of the old paint. The advantage is that there is a relatively small amount of paint build-up because it is designed to wear away over time (5 coats of albative, over time, is not as thick as 5 coats of something like Tri-Lux).
You should sand lightly before adding a new coat. The idea is to rough it up enough to give the new paint a way to grab ahold of the old paint. The advantage is that there is a relatively small amount of paint build-up because it is designed to wear away over time (5 coats of albative, over time, is not as thick as 5 coats of something like Tri-Lux).
What I've been doing
I have a H28.5 and pull it about every other year. Powerwash the slime off, scrape those ares that have some barnies but don't overdo it. I take an 80 grit sand papewr on a pad with an universal joint and simply rough up the exisiting painted surface areas. Stir the ablative paint up good. Tape the boot line. I use about a gallon and a quart - getting 2 coats on the hull three on the rudder because of the prop wash which wears coating on the rudder. Cover the leading edges of the keel with any leftover. I've been using Micron CSC for years and this year found I was in pretty good shape after 3 years. This time I tried Micron CSC Extra with Biolux (antislime) and am interersted to se how it performs. Good luck- J McCue
I have a H28.5 and pull it about every other year. Powerwash the slime off, scrape those ares that have some barnies but don't overdo it. I take an 80 grit sand papewr on a pad with an universal joint and simply rough up the exisiting painted surface areas. Stir the ablative paint up good. Tape the boot line. I use about a gallon and a quart - getting 2 coats on the hull three on the rudder because of the prop wash which wears coating on the rudder. Cover the leading edges of the keel with any leftover. I've been using Micron CSC for years and this year found I was in pretty good shape after 3 years. This time I tried Micron CSC Extra with Biolux (antislime) and am interersted to se how it performs. Good luck- J McCue
The Scoop on Ablative Paint
Yes, as long as there is paint, it will still work. But, ablative paint is not as good as hard paint for boats that do not move much.The movement of the boat gradually washes off the ablative paint, exposing new stuff and eliminating build-up. So, yes, you can just clean. However, if you have barnacles, dollars to doughnuts they are adhering through to the hull, so you may well have little paintless spots after their removal, requiring touching up, at a minimum, or new coats. When you apply extra coats, you should lightly sand, as per manufacturer's instructions, to improve adhesion between the new paint and the old. You need not sand for purposes of removal, and, in fact, every time you sand down to a hull, you run the risk of lightly roughing the gelcoat. Unfortunately, the outermost part of the gelcoat is that which most protects the boat against water intrusion and blisters.....but that is another story. You can build up quite a few layers of paint, since, as mentioned in a previous post, coats are much thinner.I have put on as many as six coats, with eight on leading edges and around the waterline, since that is where you will do the most scrubbing, should that be necessary. If you start from an unpainted hull,it is not a bad idea to make the base coat a different color. This would be your future "alert" that it is time to repaint. A number of we ablative paint afficianados apply a hard paint on the rudder, immediately aft of the prop, since that area can see much more rapid washing away of the paint. I actually use a hard paint on the rudder and keel, and an ablative on the hull.By the way, you can apply some hard paints over some ablatives, if you prep correctly. Read the instructions. I don't mind sanding off some of the build-up on the rudder and keel, since it is so important to have a "fair" surface on your foils. I also give the whole thing a very light wet sanding, AFTER the final coat is dry, and I SWEAR it makes the boat go faster, or at least, I THINK it does
Good Luck. Ablative is good stuff, particularly for boats that move, or are stored out of the water, while hard paints are better for those boats that just live in their slips.......
Yes, as long as there is paint, it will still work. But, ablative paint is not as good as hard paint for boats that do not move much.The movement of the boat gradually washes off the ablative paint, exposing new stuff and eliminating build-up. So, yes, you can just clean. However, if you have barnacles, dollars to doughnuts they are adhering through to the hull, so you may well have little paintless spots after their removal, requiring touching up, at a minimum, or new coats. When you apply extra coats, you should lightly sand, as per manufacturer's instructions, to improve adhesion between the new paint and the old. You need not sand for purposes of removal, and, in fact, every time you sand down to a hull, you run the risk of lightly roughing the gelcoat. Unfortunately, the outermost part of the gelcoat is that which most protects the boat against water intrusion and blisters.....but that is another story. You can build up quite a few layers of paint, since, as mentioned in a previous post, coats are much thinner.I have put on as many as six coats, with eight on leading edges and around the waterline, since that is where you will do the most scrubbing, should that be necessary. If you start from an unpainted hull,it is not a bad idea to make the base coat a different color. This would be your future "alert" that it is time to repaint. A number of we ablative paint afficianados apply a hard paint on the rudder, immediately aft of the prop, since that area can see much more rapid washing away of the paint. I actually use a hard paint on the rudder and keel, and an ablative on the hull.By the way, you can apply some hard paints over some ablatives, if you prep correctly. Read the instructions. I don't mind sanding off some of the build-up on the rudder and keel, since it is so important to have a "fair" surface on your foils. I also give the whole thing a very light wet sanding, AFTER the final coat is dry, and I SWEAR it makes the boat go faster, or at least, I THINK it does
Good Luck. Ablative is good stuff, particularly for boats that move, or are stored out of the water, while hard paints are better for those boats that just live in their slips.......WHat about copper epox and similar hard paints
I want to haul my boat this winter and would like something that works as a bottom paint but might also protect agains water entry into the gelcoat etc. Anybody got any info? Jim Willis
I want to haul my boat this winter and would like something that works as a bottom paint but might also protect agains water entry into the gelcoat etc. Anybody got any info? Jim Willis
Paint for Jim
There IS a copper impregnated epoxy that claims to ward off biological growth for years, while protecting against blisters, but I have never known anyone that uses it. I do think it is used in Europe, and it MAY be called Copperclad, but I really can't remember.
There IS a copper impregnated epoxy that claims to ward off biological growth for years, while protecting against blisters, but I have never known anyone that uses it. I do think it is used in Europe, and it MAY be called Copperclad, but I really can't remember.
Jim, you would need to...
Use something like Interlux Interprotect 2000/2001. Frankly, I have not found anything better (if others know of something better, please share). It is a tiring process to apply, but well worth it. It takes about 4-5 good, thick coats, sanding in between, for maximum protection. One gallon ( /- $50) will give you about two good coats on a 25 footer.
Use something like Interlux Interprotect 2000/2001. Frankly, I have not found anything better (if others know of something better, please share). It is a tiring process to apply, but well worth it. It takes about 4-5 good, thick coats, sanding in between, for maximum protection. One gallon ( /- $50) will give you about two good coats on a 25 footer.
Never removed the old stuff in 14 years.
We have had our H'31 since 1987 and have never removed the bottom paint before repainting. We take it to the yard, and they power wash the old bottom, do their inspection, tape and paint and relaunch. We are in fresh water so barnnecls are not a problem. But we do get tremendous growth.
We have had our H'31 since 1987 and have never removed the bottom paint before repainting. We take it to the yard, and they power wash the old bottom, do their inspection, tape and paint and relaunch. We are in fresh water so barnnecls are not a problem. But we do get tremendous growth.
No need to repaint
One of the major advantages of ablative is that you need not repaint if any paint remains - thus you avoid build up. Ideally, initially apply multiple coats of 2 different colors. As long as the top color remains, you have enough left for the next season. You can repaint over areas that get heavy washing action such as edges etc but otherwise repainting over good existing ablative is a waste of money. If you must repaint, follow can directions, usual clean, light sand, clean and then reapply. My Hunter 37 has about 3-4 coats ablative and this has been my third year without reapplying paint - except for touch up. Roger Hunter 37 Destiny
One of the major advantages of ablative is that you need not repaint if any paint remains - thus you avoid build up. Ideally, initially apply multiple coats of 2 different colors. As long as the top color remains, you have enough left for the next season. You can repaint over areas that get heavy washing action such as edges etc but otherwise repainting over good existing ablative is a waste of money. If you must repaint, follow can directions, usual clean, light sand, clean and then reapply. My Hunter 37 has about 3-4 coats ablative and this has been my third year without reapplying paint - except for touch up. Roger Hunter 37 Destiny
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